population: 837,500. The capital of Odisha is a major pilgrimage center on India's east coast. It boasts numerous temples built between the 6th and 13th centuries. Only those no longer in use are accessible to non-Hindus. The old town district, with its typical architecture and ancient temples, is well worth a visit, but the new town is an Indian city in all its splendor: chaotic, noisy and polluted. Bhubaneswar is also a major economic center of the state, so it's not surprising to find only business and basic accommodation for pilgrims. The Lingaraj temple, in the heart of the old town, the Kedar Gouri park and above all the superb Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves are the city's main attractions.

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