Travel Guide Neak Luong

Aptly dubbed "Cambodia's ugliest town", Néak Luong straddles the Mekong, but most of it lies on the river's eastern bank. Razed by American bombing (the episode is recounted in the film La Déchirure) and rebuilt in the delicate style of Vietnamese-style Soviet realism, Neak Luong boasts a central square adorned by a virile statue glorifying the unfailing Khmer-Annamite friendship. You can get there by ferry (there's a clearly visible ticket office on each bank). The crossing costs a few hundred riels per person and around 7,000 riels for a car, with passengers included in the price. Please note that the ferry (there are two boats) stops operating at around 6.30pm. If you need to stay overnight, you'll find accommodation and restaurants on the east side of the river. A bustling "port" town, Néak Luong offers a host of small shops on either side of the river, specializing in waterfowl (moorhens, small waders, tiny birds, snakes, turtles...). The best restaurants, however, can be found on the east bank, on the left as you leave the ferry. A stopover that will certainly take you out of your comfort zone, but also a unique opportunity to experience the real Cambodia, not the one in the tourist brochures, but the one in everyday life...