VAT PHOU

The dynasties extended their powers, eventually ruling the entire Khmer territory from the ^9th century onwards and choosing Angkor as their capital. However, the Khmer rulers honored this site until the reign of the last king, Jayavarman VII, in the ^12th century, and created the foundations at Vat Phou. The shrine subsequently became Buddhist and remains so today. Every year, at the end of January or beginning of February, a festival takes place at the time of the full moon, attracting crowds of worshippers.

This site is older than Angkor Wat (by around two centuries). Francis Garnier rediscovered the site in 1866, when villagers thought it had been built by people of a different race.

Inscriptions dating from the^5th and ^6th centuries mention the presence of a temple on the mountain, but this has since disappeared and been replaced by the present site. Vat Phou as we see it today was built in the first part of the ^11th century. Extensions and renovations were carried out in the ^13th century. The whole complex is oriented on an east-west axis, climbs a mountain and culminates in the sanctuary, situated on a terrace at the foot of the cliff where the sacred spring flows.

The barays and the alley. As you enter the site, you first see two barays, artificial lakes representing the ocean that encompasses the earth, followed by a sandstone terrace. A brick-lined driveway leads to an esplanade where two buildings face each other.

The palaces, the Nandi temple and the ancient Khmer road. Both rectangular buildings with inner courtyards feature carved pediments, dating from the ^11th century (Koh Ker period). From here, a central alley lined with partly destroyed galleries leads to a staircase. To the side (south of the alley) are the remains of a ^{mid-11th-century} building known as the temple of Nandi, the sacred bull and mount of Shiva. Then an elevated road leads to Nang Sida temple, passing through Ban That, where three Khmer chapels are located 30 km to the south, and ends at Angkor.

The stairs and terrace. The first staircase leads to a terrace, then to a second staircase at the foot of which are two ^13th-century buildings. Now partly destroyed, they both housed a Dvarapala or gatekeeper. Only the one to the north is still visible: he holds a club in one hand, the other resting on his heart as a sign of respect. He is believed to represent King Kammantha. From the top of the second staircase, a third staircase leads to the penultimate terrace and its six brick towers, whose original date of construction is uncertain (^11th century?). They once housed the Shivalinga. From here, you can see the vast upper terrace.

The spring (basement). Behind the portico, an underground shelter is believed to contain the sacred springs. Archaeological excavations carried out between 1991 and 1993 revealed several successive developments in this area, the function of which was to collect and convey water to the sanctuary. This unique layout is what makes Vat Phou so special. In the past, a small temple set into the cliff sacralized the spring water. Behind it, Khmer bronze statuettes of Vishnu, a female deity and effigies of Buddha have been found. Water from the spring was collected in a green sandstone and brick basin and brought to the sanctuary via an aqueduct.

Pedestals unearthed around the spring bear witness to the presence of statues, probably of the Shivalinga family, which have now disappeared.

The sanctuary. The main sanctuary, dating from the ^mid-11th century, is built on the upper terrace. Like all Khmer temples, it features a library and is bordered on the west by a ^13th-century stepped portico with two doors leading to the sacred spring area.

A sculpture of Trimurti, the Hindu trinity (Shiva, center; Brahma, right; Vishnu, left), can be seen in the rock supporting the portico behind the sanctuary. The sanctuary is accessed via three doors: south, east and north. At the rear, there used to be a Shivalinga irrigated by spring water. The permanent watering of the lingam is unique in Khmer Hinduism. This gives Vat Phou a very special character. The outer facades feature door guardians and Devata, female deities. The doors are all carved, with representations of Krishna, Indra, Vishnu, Shiva and illustrations from the Ramayana. This sanctuary has been converted into a Buddhist temple and contains recent statues of Buddha.

To the north of the sanctuary , recent monastic buildings can be seen, and further on, animals carved on rocks: an elephant and a crocodile. They date back to the ^13th century (or earlier). Perhaps a place of sacrifice during the Vat Phou festivities... Also worth seeing are the remains of much older sandstone meditation cells (walls, pedestals). A Buddha foot is carved into the rock.

Around Vat Phou, 1 km south of Nandi temple, you can visit the ruins of Prasat Hong Nang Sida, dating from the early ^12th century. Further on is the early ^13th-century Thao Tao temple. It is more difficult to reach. On the other bank of the river, on the banks of the Nam To Mo, are the remains of another temple dating from the ^7th and ^12th centuries.