Historic Centre (Nordstaden)
Sandwiched between the Göta Älv river to the north and Rosenlundskanalen to the south, the districts of Nordstaden and Inom Vallgraven (literally "inside the moat") are separated by the Stora Hamnkanalen: they make up the city's historic center, whose somewhat motley allure blends with the hustle and bustle of a huge modern shopping mall(Nordstan), and the rather imposing majesty of some Stockholm-style squares and avenues.
Nordstaden. To the north of Stora Hamnkanalen, the river-side district of Nordstaden is gradually undergoing a metamorphosis of its industrial harbor quays, which until now have been largely inaccessible to the public. In summer, with a ray of sunshine, and in the evening, they have become one of the city's liveliest and warmest spots, with their cafés, terraces and restaurants. Directly opposite the Opera House is a marina called Lilla Bommen, the heart of a rapidly changing district whose major construction and development projects are designed to make it more pedestrian-friendly. Not far from there, since 1987, stands the Utkiken ("the panorama"), colloquially nicknamed Läppstiftet by the locals ("the lipstick"), an angular, 86 m-high tower whose two-tone white and red upper floors offer the most comprehensive view of the city.
Inom Vallgraven. After crossing a bridge with chiselled railings, you reach the Inom Vallgraven district, a kind of island bounded on the south by the Rosenlundskanalen. In the midst of the interlacing pedestrian streets stands Domkyrkan Cathedral, built in 1815 in neoclassical style on the site of two churches that burned down in 1721 and 1802. Heading towards Rosenlundskanalen, we reach the covered market(Saluhallen), with its abundantly stocked stalls. Inom Vallgraven is home to the Tourist Office and the hub of all the city's streetcars.
Haga, Vasastaden and Lorensberg
Haga. This district with straight cobblestone streets, without sidewalks, can be walked in less than an hour. But it is worth a visit for its bohemian side. Here, antique, book and clothing stores rub shoulders with cosy cafés and excellent restaurants. Built from 1648 onwards in the wake of the historic center, Haga was for a long time home to a working class population trapped in unsanitary housing. Renovations started in 1982 and completed in 1993 drove out the former working class population, replaced by a world of small shopkeepers, wealthy students and hipster couples.
Vasastaden and Lorensberg. It is here, more than a kilometer from the river's banks, that the upper middle class built their large stone buildings after 1870, aired by vast spaces of greenery already steeped. Starting from the Haga church, built in 1856 in neo-Gothic style, one walks along the wide Vasagatan Avenue. The elegant buildings along the avenue are home to the universities and the National Archives, as well as large middle-class apartments. But it is especially on Avenyn and in the adjacent streets that the main part of the animation and the night life of the city is concentrated. In this privileged space, night owls eager for chic and trendy bars and clubs, buildings dating from the 19th century are rare, most of them having been demolished in the 1960s and 1970s to be replaced by modern buildings of four or five floors with large glass facades. You have to go up to Göta Platsen, the cultural epicenter of the city where the population of Gothenburg meets during major events, located a little higher, to enjoy a vast perspective on the avenue. This huge square, built in 1923 for the city's tercentenary, is dominated by the statue of Poseidon, created by sculptor Carl Milles.
Majorna and Slottskogen
Majorna. Located in the west of the city, the district of Majorna is primarily residential. It is characterized by a very large number of two-story houses called landshövdingehus: the first floor is made of stone and the two upper floors are made of wood, because at the beginning of the nineteenth century and until the beginning of the twentieth century, by decision of the prefect and in order to prevent the risk of fire, it was decided that all houses would have a first floor made of stone and that the two upper floors had to be made of wood, as the clay soil of the city could not support the weight of more than one stone floor. Until the first half of the twentieth century, Majorna was essentially a neighborhood inhabited by workers. Proud of this heritage, the Majorna district keeps today a strong popular identity, rather bobo, and clearly left-wing politically. If you are in Gothenburg in spring, don't miss the huge flea market which takes place there in May-June: all the inhabitants of the district are allowed to sell their old objects and you can find absolutely everything there, at a price defying all competition!
Between Majorna and Haga, from Linnégatan and Järntorget is one of the very popular districts of Gothenburg: the district of Linné. It is famous for its three streets (Andra Långgatan, Tredje Långgatan and Fjärde Långgatan, i.e. "the second long street", "the third long street" and "the fourth long street"), which are the night owl's stop. You will find mostly Swedes and few tourists. You can eat here for cheap and you will discover a very relaxed atmosphere.
Slottsskogen. It is the big park of Gothenburg, a true green lung of 137 hectares in the heart of the city. Open all year round and created in 1874, it adjoins Majorna. There is an observatory equipped with a telescope, the Gothenburg Natural History Museum and a wildlife park, one of the oldest in Sweden. Slottsskogen is home to the Way Out West alternative music festival every summer. Close to the park is the city's beautiful botanical garden with over 12,000 species of plants.