AGRA FORT

This majestic red sandstone fort was the brainchild of Emperor Akbar, who had it built in 1565 at the age of 23. His grandson Shah Jahan transformed it into a palace, and it was Aurangzeb who added the finishing touch: the outer ramparts. The presence of a fort in Agra dates back to the end of the ^11th century. It was here that Humayun was crowned emperor in 1530. From the red sandstone volumes of Akbar to the inlaid marble of Shah Jahan, the fort is marked by the styles of the different rulers who refined it. It bears many similarities to Delhi's Red Fort, but is far more accomplished and delicate. Access is via the impressive Amar Singh Gate to the south of the citadel. After climbing up the cobbled ramp, you'll find yourself on a huge esplanade. Don't be surprised to see signs forbidding access to certain areas, as the fort is still occupied by the army.

Jahangir Mahal. On the right as you enter the fort stands the Jahangir Palace, topped by two white-roofed chhatris. Built by Akbar, this palace was the main zenana, the quarter reserved for women. The huge bowl in front of the palace entrance was carved from a monolithic block. Inside, you enter a courtyard sheltered by a canopy. This was the royal bedchamber, and you'd be forgiven for imagining it decked out with hangings, carpets and furniture. In the next room, caissons in the walls served as a library. As you leave, you stand on the fort's wall, from which you can see the Taj Mahal. To the left, you enter another small room with a surprising acoustic phenomenon. It takes two people to appreciate it, each standing at diametrically opposite corners. One is whispering to the wall, and on the other side of the room, the other is listening. The sound travels up the arch of the vault and then down to the listener. An air-conditioning system was also installed to cool the palace walls in summer. Pipes ran through the walls, bringing coolness to the air.

Khas Mahal. The style of this small palace shows the evolution of architecture between the reigns of Akbar and Shah Jahan. It was built between 1631 and 1640 for two of the emperor's daughters. The two almost identical pavilions are separated by a central hall. While the pavilions are in red sandstone covered with white plaster, the central hall is entirely in marble. The central pavilion opens onto a Mughal garden, theanguri bagh, with a large pool. The side pavilions feature rich floral and geometric motifs. Blue and gold, the royal colors, were used in abundance, and traces of this can still be seen on the walls.

Shish Mahal. This marble palace was also built by Shah Jahan. The two main rooms, connected by a wide central arch, feature two marble basins, probably used as royal baths. The palace is entirely decorated with mirror chips from Aleppo. The interior is deliberately dark, requiring the use of candles reflected in the mirrors, creating an effect worthy of the Arabian Nights.

Musamman burj. This hexagonal tower preceded by a richly ornamented chamber is said to have been built by Shah Jahan for Mumtaz, his favorite wife. All in white marble, the main room is adorned with pietra dura, inlays of colored semi-precious stones forming floral motifs. The view of the Taj Mahal from the tower is breathtaking. It was here that Shah Jahan was imprisoned for the last 5 years of his life by his son Aurangzeb.

Diwan-i-khas. This is the emperor's private audience hall, built in 1637. Made of red sandstone veneered with white marble, the columns and capitals are decorated with pietra dura. On the esplanade stands Jahangir's throne. Manufactured in Allahabad, the black onyx stone comes from Belgium. On the edge, Persian inscriptions dating from 1602 indicate that Jahangir seized power before the death of his father Akbar.

Macchi Bhavan. The terrace of the Diwan-i-khas dominates this vast courtyard. It served as a place of entertainment for the emperor. The garden, located one level below, featured a large fish pond. The square courtyard is laid out on two levels with columned galleries. The first floor is in red sandstone, while the first floor has been plastered in white. This is also where the court's treasure was kept.

Nagina Masjid. This small, white marble mosque is one of the jewels of Agra Fort. Built by Shah Jahan to serve the women of the court, its decorative restraint is the order of the day. A simple three-arched pavilion topped by three domes backs onto the courtyard wall. A balcony overlooking the street and the Mina bazaar enabled the women of the court to shop without being seen.

Diwan-i-Am. A public audience hall where Shah Jahan addressed his ministers and nobility. The hall is made of red sandstone covered with plaster made from shell powder. The hall is divided into three aisles separated by arches and columns. The raised central alcove allowed the emperor to address his audience. From here, he could see the entire audience without being disturbed by the hall's pillars. The alcove, or jarokha, is made of richly ornate white marble. On either side, grilled windows allowed the women of the court to attend the audiences.