BISHNUPUR TEMPLES

Some of the temples are beautifully illuminated on Saturdays and Sundays between 6pm and 9.30pm, but it's not all light and sound. If you're short on time,auto-rickshaw drivers will take you around the main temples. Hiring the services of a guide can be a good idea. For a half-day tour, expect to pay around Rs. 400.

North and north-east of College Road

Jore Bangla Temple. Completed in 1655. One of a kind, it consists of two hut-like structures, surmounted by a small square tower. Both the interior and exterior are finely decorated, depicting scenes from the social life of the period.

Lalji Temple. Completed in 1658. This stone temple stands out for its almost white color and its surrounding wall. It is in a rather poor state of preservation, with only the remains of ornamentation visible. The whole, however, remains impressive. Heading north towards Madan Mohan, you'll pass through what remains of the city's ancient gates. They are made of laterite and date from the second half of the ^17th century.

Madan Mohan Temple. Completed in 1694. Its curved Bangla-style roof, topped by a single sikhara, makes it a highly representative example of this style of architecture. The terracotta ornamentation depicts scenes from the Rasha festival, war and hunting.

Patpur Temple. No inscription has been found to date it; experts believe it dates from the second half of the ^18th century. On the sides of the entrance door, you'll find two fine representations of Vishnu. The journey to this temple, more than 1 km east of the city gates, takes you through beautiful, traditional villages with mud houses, where life seems to have remained the same since time immemorial.

Radhashyam Temple. Completed in 1758, this is the most recent of Bishnupur's temples. Built of laterite, it is renowned for its numerous stucco reliefs depicting geometric shapes and floral designs. Just opposite this temple, you can take a tour of the Durga Mandir. An incredible banyan tree stands in front of the entrance.

Rashmansha Temple. Built in the second half of the ^16th century by Bir Hambir, the most famous of the Malla kings. Its function was to house idols from the kingdom's various temples, for public display during the Rasha festival. Its pyramidal roof and triple gallery surrounding the sanctuary make it a unique architectural construction in India. The outer walls are decorated with terracotta lotuses, and the eastern side features dancers and singers.

Shyamraya Temple. Completed in 1643. Topped by five arched towers (including a central one), this brick temple is said to be in the ratna ("tower") style. The walls feature terracotta scenes from the Hindu epics Mahabharata and Ramayana. The expeditions of the Mallabhum kings on their hunting expeditions are also depicted. Shyamraya's terracotta sculptures are considered to be the most elaborate in West Bengal. There is only one other five-tower temple in Bishnupur: the Madan Gopal, to the west of the city.

North-west of College Road

Madan Gopal temple. Entirely built of laterite, it was completed in 1665. This is Bishnupur's other five-tower temple (along with the Shyamraya). The central tower is octagonal. It's not renowned for its ornamentation, with only a few lotuses on the porch arches. But it's well worth the trip, for it's right in the middle of town, and the road to it is full of little surprises: old houses, a metal temple on wheels, small trades...

South of College Road

Canon Dalmadal. Dating from the ^16th century, it was used to contain the Marathi invasions of 1742. This imposing piece of artillery weighs 30 tonnes and is almost 4 m high. Its name derives from the Sanskrit word dalamardan, which means "to disperse enemy bands". The other guns of the Malla kings were confiscated by the English administration.

Chinnamasta Temple. Situated just beyond the cannon, it is of recent construction and has nothing in common with the Mallabhum temples. It is dedicated to one of Bishnupur's most venerated goddesses, Chinnamasta Mata, who carries her head in one of her twelve arms. Chinnamasta means "with separated head" in Bangladeshi.

Jore Mandir temples. This harmonious complex of three laterite temples was completed in 1726. The smallest, in the center, is richly decorated with stucco illustrations of the Ramayana. Away from the city's buildings, amidst a somewhat lunar landscape, it's a pleasant place to stroll at sunset.

Nanda Lal Temple. Probably dates from the ^17th century. Little ornamentation.

Radha Govinda Temple. Completed in 1729, it is flanked by a few bas-reliefs. Nearby, note the miniature temple.

South-east of College Road

The following two temples are located within the Archaeological Survey of India.

Kalachand Temple. Completed in 1656, this is one of the oldest laterite temples in Bishnupur. Depictions of Krishna, dancers and ascetics can be seen here.

Radha Madhab Temple. Completed in 1737, its three-arched entrance porch is remarkable. Here you'll find numerous bas-reliefs depicting episodes from Krishna's life. Flowers, birds and other animals complete the picture.