DAKSHINESWAR KALI TEMPLE

Located on the banks of the Hooghly, this is the city's other major temple dedicated to the goddess Kâlî. It's best to take the train or metro to Dum Dum station, then catch a bus or cab to get there. It's well worth the trip: the temple is much bigger and cleaner than the Kâli temple in Kâlighat, even if it doesn't exude as much authenticity.

Commissioned by Lokamata Rani Rashmoni, a businesswoman, and erected in 1855, this temple is recognizable by its roof adorned with 9 spires. Inside the complex are 12 shrines dedicated to Shiva, Kâli's companion. The ^19th-century Indian sage Sri Ramakrishna officiated at the temple, and his bedroom can be visited. He founded a mission whose international headquarters, the astonishing Belur Math, can be visited daily. The monastery houses a temple dedicated to Ramakrishna, a mausoleum dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, who was cremated here in 1902, another dedicated to Sarada Devi, Ramakrishna's wife and spiritual companion, as well as a museum and study facilities. To get there, go to the ghat behind the Dakshineswar temple and take a small boat. The crossing takes 5 minutes, but please note that it's only open from 8am to 11am and from 4.30pm to 7pm. You can also stroll along the quay to this huge tree where monkeys are fed by worshippers, while beggars and untouchables are sure to ask you for a coin. It's one of India's paradoxes...