JAISALMER CITADEL

The citadel of Jaisalmer emerges from the desert like a mirage, seemingly floating on a cloud of sand. Built in 1156, the fortress has undergone many restorations over the centuries, as Bhattis, Mughals and Rathores from Jodhpur battled it out. One of the oldest forts in Rajasthan, it was listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2013.

The city was founded by a Bhatti raja named Rao Jaisal. It soon became an important caravan route between India and Persia. In the ^14th century, the Bhattis seized a caravan from Delhi. In retaliation, the Delhi sultan Al ud-Din Khalji had the town almost razed to the ground. The fort was rebuilt almost a century later. In 1541, it withstood the assaults of Emperor Humayun without succumbing. However, the rawal 's desire for Mughal domination finally made him give in, and he offered one of his daughters in marriage to Emperor Akbar. The city remained under Mughal control until 1762, when it was taken over by Maharawal Mulraj. He also signed a treaty with the British East India Company in 1812, ensuring its protection. The rise of maritime trade and the port of Bombay during the Raj period led to the city's economic decline. Partition with Pakistan in 1947 and the closing of the border brought the city to its final demise. In 1993, the Jaisalmer region was hit by a violent monsoon that destroyed or severely damaged some 250 historic buildings, including the Rani-ka-Mahal, the Queen's palace.

Even today, the fort is home to around 3,000 of the city's 65,500 inhabitants. It's a small city with temples, finely carved havelis, narrow streets, stalls and a palace. The fort was built on a natural sedimentary platform overlooking the plain at an altitude of 79 metres. It is 460 meters long and 230 meters wide. It has retained all its medieval character, and is a delight to stroll along its narrow streets and ramparts.

Cross the double line of walls via a steep ramp guarded by four successive gates. Here you are in the square of Dashera Chowk, where the famous jauhar (rajput women immolated themselves after a military defeat to avoid dishonour) took place during enemy sieges. On the right, the palace facade features fine jharokhas (finely sculpted overhanging windows). Cobbled lanes follow the ramparts, some of which are 10 metres thick.