GRAFFITIS DE SREBRENICA

They're everywhere, right from the entrance to the town, where Serb nationalists regularly stencil a portrait of general and war criminal Ratko Mladić: it was he who led the massacres in 1995. Bosnians, meanwhile, have written large "Never forget Srebrenica " slogans on the walls of abandoned houses in memory of the victims. In the Genocide Memorial Museum, you'll find the graffiti - despicable but ultra-renowned throughout the country - left by a Dutch peacekeeper in 1995, at the end of the four-year siege of the town: "No teeth... ? A moustache... ? Smell like shit... ? Bosnian girl!" ("No teeth... ? A moustache... ? I smell like m****... ? I'm a Bosnian girl!) On a lighter note, there are also words like "Svima je potrebna ljubav" ("Everyone needs love"), "Солидарност" ("Solidarity"), "Poštovanje" ("Respect") or big tags to the glory of the local soccer club, FK Guber, a team made up, it should be noted, of both Bosnian and Bosnian-Serb players. The city also inspires foreign artists such as the Italian Manu Invisible, who has left two graphics in the city center. One is easy to understand: the word "Dialogue" with symbols of Christianity, Judaism and Islam. The other is more elaborate: "СВИJEST". This is the Bosnian-Croatian term svijest ("conscience"), but with the first three letters written in Serbian Cyrillic: a nod to the rapprochement between the communities.