ISIS TEMPLE
Read moreThe extraordinary temple of Isis and the associated cult buildings dedicated to the goddess are no longer on the island of Philae, but on the island of Agikia. The real Philae is located 250 m to the south-east of the latter, and is completely submerged.
Philae has benefited from the rescue of the Nubian temples launched by Unesco in 1960. In 1975, a dam was built around the island, reducing the amount of water surrounding it and enabling the various buildings to be cut up and transported to the nearby island of Agikia. Reassembly was completed in 1980. Philae was saved from the waters.
This site is built not far from one of the most emblematic places in the Osirian myth. It was on the island of Biga, equidistant from Philae and Agikia, that Osiris' left leg was hidden by his brother and assassin, Set. Isis, Osiris' wife, finds it there and assembles her husband's body; she also buries it there, while Osiris is resurrected. Horus was conceived there. Isis then decided to move to the island of Philae to be closer to him.
During the XXVth dynasty (747 - 656), Hâpy, who commanded the Nile with the elephantine triad, was also thought to be hiding in a cave at Biga, where the river's source was also believed to be.
The temple of Isiswas built by the Ptolemies. It quickly became the center of Isis worship until 543 CE, after a decree by Justinian forbade it. A Christian church had already been established here in the 4th century.
Two porticoes precede the great temple of Isis. At the southern end of the western portico stand the site's oldest remains, the kiosk of NectaboI (380 - 362), first king of the XXXth and last indigenous dynasty. The west portico is composed of 32 composite columns built under Ptolemy III; the ceiling features eagles with their heads turned towards the island of Osiris, Biga. The eastern portico is smaller, concealing an unusual temple dedicated to Imhotep, not a god but the architect of Djoser's pyramid at Saqqarah. The two porticoes frame a paved esplanade that leads to the temple's first pylon.
The first pylon is monumental. It follows in the tradition of the majestic entrances to the great temples, where wooden masts bearing the colors of the divinity were enshrined. It is preceded, on the right, by a small Ptolemy II door. It is Ptolemy XII triumphant who is represented on the bas-reliefs; a door pierced in the left-hand upright of the pylon gives access to the mammisi. Passing through the doorway, engraved messages dating from Bonaparte's expedition to Egypt can be seen on the right.
The inner courtyard houses the curious mammisi, erected by Ptolemy III in honor of the birth of Horus. The temple is divided into three halls, the second of which is devoted to offerings, with bas-reliefs recounting Horus' conception (left) with Amun and Khnum, and his birth (right), which took place not far away. In the third room, Isis nurses her child. On the outer walls, the god Harpocrates, who was none other than Horus to the Ptolemies, looks like a thumb-sucking child.
The second pylon, like the rest of the temple, is offset from the first. Its dimensions are just as impressive as this one. Access is via a stepped ramp. It depicts Ptolemy XII presenting offerings to the gods, while the large round stele on the right, giving the Dodecachene mining region to Philae, was written by Ptolemy VI.
The hypostyle hall is supported by 10 columns, and is both open-air and protected by a stone ceiling. It features the emblems of Upper and Lower Egypt, as well as Coptic crosses carved when the pronaos was transformed into a church.
The sanctuary is preceded by three vestibules and surrounded by nine other rooms. It still contains the repository on which the tabernacle containing the statue of the divinity was placed. Surrounding it is an open-air offering courtyard, while a staircase leads up to the temple terrace. From the first vestibule, you can exit the temple to find Hadrian's Gate to the west.
Hadrian's Gate opened onto a temple dedicated to Osiris. The bas-reliefs depicting the god Hâpy and the sources of the Nile beneath the island of Biga are worth a look. You can also access a nilometer near this gate.
To theeast of the great Temple of Isis, four buildings from the Philae complex have been relocated.
Diocletian's Gate, located at the northernmost point of the island, is a triumphal arch erected by the emperor; it was here that the entrance to the site was made. The central arch has disappeared, leaving only the two side gates intact. Not far away, the foundations of a temple of Augustus remain, the stones of which were used to build churches in the 4th century.
Continuing south along the riverbank, the Temple of Hathor was built by Ptolemy VI and his successor. It is a courtyard and sanctuary dedicated to Hathor, who at the time was equated with Isis, as the history of the Egyptian pantheon has sometimes allowed.
Trajan's kiosk, further south, although entirely Roman, is extremely romantic, with its 14 composite columns. Two opposing doors open onto this kiosk. Next to the kiosk are the benches for the sound and light show.