Things to see and do Abydos

The main temple at Abydos was built by Seti ^I (1318-1304 B.C.), and was reworked and completed by his son, Ramses II, who completed most of the decorative bas-reliefs. Long before them, other monarchs had built temples to Osiris on the same site. Together with the Osirion Cenotaph, they form part of a coherent complex dedicated to the cult of Osiris, enclosed by mud-brick walls and accessed via a main pylon to the northeast, or a secondary pylon to the southwest, now overlooking the desert.

First pylon and courtyard, second pylon and courtyard. Nothing remains of these first two courtyards, apart from their architectural foundations. At the far end of the second courtyard is the first portico, preceded by twelve square columns. In this portico are 2 openings and 5 niches; in fact, Sety^I had opened 7 doors and Ramses II had 5 filled in. They led to the five inner chapels.

First and second hypostyle halls, chapels. 24 columns support the ceiling of the first hall, opening onto the second through seven doors. 36 columns support the ceiling of the second hypostyle hall, formerly an offering room, which is divided into two levels. The second level houses 7 chapels, arranged side by side. The central chapel is wider than the others and was dedicated to Amun; to its left, the chapel of Ré, Ptah and the monarch; to its right, the chapels of Osiris, which gives access to other rooms that span the width of the temple, Isis and Horus.

Logistical" rooms. Two doors in the second hypostyle hall lead to two rooms used to store sacred barks, five rooms containing the treasury, and a set of 5 rooms that served as a sacred slaughterhouse; note that jars are sealed to the floor and that gutters were dug to facilitate the draining of blood.

A staircase leads to a promontory outside the temple, giving access to the Osirion-cenotaph.

Osirian festivals have always been celebrated at Abydos, featuring the confrontation between the two brothers Set and Osiris, Isis's search for the body parts of her brother and husband, and the reconstitution of the body. To this day, some visitors to Abydos worship the Osirian cult.

To the west of the enclosure, some three hundred meters north of that of his father Seti ^I, Ramses II had a small temple built, comprising a courtyard, 2 hypostyle halls and side chapels. On the pylon, the king had his victory at the Battle of Qadesh depicted. Despite the loss of the upper parts of the walls, the lower parts show remarkable decoration. Its architecture is classical and its layout follows that of Theban funerary temples. In 2023, 2,000 mummified rams' heads from the Ptolemaic era were discovered.

The Osirion Cenotaph is a curious edifice, built in line with the central chapel of Amun Ra in the temple of Sety ^I, and buried underground. It was accessed via a hundred-meter-long corridor, opposite to the current view of the site. Today, the temple is reached via a long, gently sloping corridor, the walls of which are covered with texts from the "Book of Gates" and the "Book of Caverns". A cenotaph was not intended to contain a body, but a symbolic tomb for souls, so this was Osiris' spiritual tomb. It was conceived as an island, the plan of which is repeated in The Secret of the Great Pyramid when Blake and Mortimer reach the secret chamber.

The vestibule gave access to a water-filled moat, surrounded by 17 niches. On the symbolic island, covered by a ceiling supported by ten massive pillars, the architect excavated the fictitious location of Osiris' sarcophagus, as well as the fictitious location of the canopic vases containing the God's viscera. Crossing the water-filled moat again, we reach the cenotaph of Sety ^I. The themes depicted on the walls are a mark of respect for Horus, the reconstitution of the divine body, and the transmission of royal power from Osiris to Horus, and thus to Pharaoh. You can go down there if you wish, water levels permitting. The last room, known as the "sarcophagus", features an astronomical ceiling with a representation of the goddess Nut.