Things to see and do Umm Ar-Rasas

The large shed at Umm ar-Rasas contains the remains of four churches, a chapel, a baptistery and four courtyards. All the buildings date back to the Byzantine period and were erected between the 6th and 8th centuries. A raised platform allows to observe their sumptuous mosaics. The most beautiful of them, and the most important archaeologically, is the church of Saint Stephen. This major discovery has brought to light the largest mosaic in Jordan in a very good state of preservation. The mosaic that lined the apses and the three naves of the church represents cities on both sides of the Jordan Valley, scenes of daily life in the Nile Delta and beautiful floral or geometric patterns. Indications left by the mosaicists can attest that the pavement of the choir was made between March 756 and October 785. In addition to the long and delicate work of realization, it is likely that its progress was also related to its financing.

The theme of the tormented river is used in the creation of the mosaic that covers the main nave. Around this raging element were represented the fortified cities on both sides of the Jordan. We find among others Jerusalem (near the gate), Nablus, Sebastia, Caesarea, Ashkelon, Gaza for the "Israeli" side; and Kastron Mefaa, Amman, Madaba, Hesban, Ma'in, Rabbah and Kerak for the "Jordanian" side. The cities are presented in the order in which the pilgrims passed through them.

Less than 2 km north of the fortified city, an ancient tower intrigue specialists. It is 15 m high and has neither a door nor a staircase, but a few windows at the top level. Perhaps she was once inhabited by the first Christian monks who found the solitude necessary for their meditation. Today, you won't see more of the building, but we can go there to feel the special atmosphere that emerges from the place. The remains of a church are scattered not far away.

The Church of the Lions is the only one on the site of Umm ar-Rasas that has three apses. The central apse housed the choir, which was situated on a raised platform that is still present. The nave was lined with a mosaic, of which a few pieces remain. These are protected from erosion and light by a thick covering of sand. A representation of Kastron Meefaa, the ancient name of Umm ar-Rasas, has been found between two columns, but the most beautiful fragment is that of two lions framing a tree, hence the name of the church.

The church of Bishop Sergius is reached after crossing the church of Saint Stephen. Here the pavement is much more modest artistically speaking, because the iconoclasts erased the human faces. Nevertheless, the names of the generous donors remain, as well as pastoral scenes: a farmer leading his grapes to the press, birds hunting, harvesting... The four seasons are represented in the corners of the carpet, from which the Virginia creeper spills out to form a frieze.