O-A-HANJI

To get there from Shuqi Road, enter the small cave on the left by climbing the steps after passing the theatre and A-Mei Tea house, and follow the passage (low ceiling) before opening into a sort of small courtyard. It's right in front of you, and it's impossible to miss. As in most of the other establishments in Jiufen, the décor is particularly neat, with antique furniture (for the record, they furnished the owner's old house) and a superb view of the region.