Dedicated to the Virgen del Socavón, the most Dionysian of Bolivian festivals lasts 4 days during which Oruro, the folkloric capital, becomes the center of attention of the whole country. Characteristic of the Bolivian syncretism, this carnival finds its roots in the meeting of the Andean beliefs and the Christian religion. With its 400 000 visitors each year, it is the second most important carnival of South America in terms of attendance, after that of Rio de Janeiro. Remaining true to its origins, it was classified as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2008. The festivities begin on the Saturday before Mardi Gras with a parade of dancers from all over the country. The highlight is the entry of the Diablada, the dance of devils and angels who confront each other, amidst a whirlwind of music and colors, under the most beautiful masks of the country. A cultural event not to be missed.

A history of syncretism and cultural mixture

In Bolivia, Oruro is located on an ancient site of Andean ceremonies, among which the great festival of Ito, which allowed the Urus, an ancient people of the Tiwanaku empire, to perform their sacred rituals in honor of the Pachamama and the Tío Supay (god of the mountain). The city was taken by the conquistadors at the beginning of the XVII century and, in spite of the prohibition made by the Spaniards to perpetuate these ceremonies, it remained a sacred site for the Urus. To get around this prohibition, the Urus assimilated the figure of the Pachamama to that of the Virgin, and the Tío Supay dressed as the Devil, in order to continue celebrating their gods under the guise of Christianity. At the end of the 18th century, a strange image of the Virgin appeared in one of the richest silver mines in the city. Since then, the carnival has been held in honor of the Virgen del Socavón (Virgin of the Mine), which was then considered the Virgen de la Candelaria (Virgin of Candlemas). The imposing 45-meter statue of the Virgen del Socavón, erected in 2013 on the heights of the city, watches over the festivities in which hundreds of thousands of spectators come to participate from all over Bolivia..

The origins of the carnival

Towards the end of the XVIIIth century, one begins to speak about the Diablada, the dance of the devils, which was formerly the llama llama for the Urus, and which symbolizes the fight of the good against the evil. The clothes of the angels and archangels were then made of silver and not of brass, as it is the case today. The incredible masks of the Diablada appeared around the beginning of the 20th century, they depict the Tío Supay in the form of the image of the red horned devil of Christianity, but also animals that the Urus consider sacred. The Diablada, with all its symbols and references, is considered by many to be the dance that embodies the carnival of Oruro. Over the years the carnival will attract other dancers from all over Bolivia and especially from urban areas.

Let the party begin!

From 7am on the Saturday morning before Shrove Tuesday, a procession of about 28,000 dancers and 10,000 musicians, proud representatives of Bolivian youth, parade through the streets towards the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón. The procession, which lasts about 20 hours, takes place on a route of a little more than 3 km that begins on Aroma Avenue and passes through the main roads of the city center (Bolívar Avenue, Plaza 10 de Febrero, Rodolfo Meier Avenue...), to finally arrive at the Santuario del Socavón. Meanwhile, in a fierce face-off, the spectators in the stands clash. On both sides, the most daring throw water bombs and firecrackers at their opponents. The most exposed are reduced to defending themselves with their umbrellas against the raids of shaving foam.

Each group represents a region or an ethnic group of Bolivia and consists of several hundred dancers, who are the showcase of their region. The dancers are adorned with complex costumes (and often very heavy to wear!), as well as sublime masks that make the reputation of the carnival. The "elders", as for them, compose the band at the back of each procession. They give the impression of being the happiest of the group, so much their joy of living is communicative. Dressed in the same costume and wearing an identical sombrero, they tirelessly follow the rhythms of the Altiplano, to the sound of brass and percussion. The most anticipated groups are those from the Altiplano and its main cities: Oruro, La Paz and Potosi.

The Diablada, the dance symbolizing the carnival, is the most expected. It is performed by the Gran Tradicional Auténtica Diablada from Oruro. The costumes and masks are among the most spectacular of the procession.

A unifying carnival

Everyone has fun here: at the Oruro carnival, Bolivians from the Altiplano, Guaraníes from the Southeast, Bolivians from the Oriente and from the Yungas, all communities that make up the rich cultural heritage of the country, come together. The adults, the older ones and the little ones: all have their place, rich or poor.

The public is delighted, it too is part of the show, it applauds, it claps its hands in rhythm with the orchestra, it sings, but above all it motivates all these dancers who need it so much their journey is long. In spite of the aches and the fallen night, the festivities continue during the night until 3 am. Around 7am on Sunday morning, the carnival starts again, and it's a new day of celebrations, music, dances, explosions of joy and colors.

Attending the carnival

Travelers wishing to attend this major event in the country must obviously make arrangements well in advance. The easiest way is to use the services of a travel agency that will take care of everything (reservations, accommodation, transportation). If you want to go on your own, there are several factors to take into account. First of all, the accommodation; it is necessary to know that the rates of the hotel rooms in Oruro triple and even quadruple during the carnival. Moreover, it is often necessary to reserve for a minimum of 3 nights, which quickly increases the cost. Hotels fill up during this period, so it is best to make reservations several months in advance. It is easier to find a means of transportation, buses are available from all cities, but their prices can also be slightly inflated. Then you have to buy a ticket to get into the stands. Prices vary depending on the location and services (some tickets include food and drinks), they range from 100 to 900 Bolivianos per person. Once all these conditions are met, it is time to admire the parade! The climate is generally quite mild, but it can quickly become very cool, especially if you are static. Temperatures generally oscillate between 5°C in the morning and evening, and up to 18°C in the afternoon. The sun is strong at this altitude, so remember to protect your head. Basic precautions should be taken, as it is common for crowds to splash water, shaving cream, etc. Wear waterproof clothing and protect your belongings (bag, camera). Also remember to recharge your electronic devices so you don't miss any pictures... You are now ready to enjoy one of the most colorful and cheerful carnivals of the continent!

Smart info


When is the best time to visit? From April to October, the sky is mostly blue, but it is cool. Carnival 2023 takes place from February 18 to 21.

How to get there. For Oruro, the Juan Mendoza airport is located 5 km from the city. Flights from/to La Paz Cochabamba and Santa Cruz. Train and bus are also possible.

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