As big as Britain twice, the Atlantic province of New Brunswick is nestled in eastern Canada, at the end of Quebec and the United States. Its territory forms a quadrilateral of boreal forest dominated by Mount Carleton (820 metres above sea level) in the northern highlands. New Brunswick's interior is fairly uniform, lined with forests and lakes, while the province's coastline is striking, bordered by the Baie des Chaleurs to the north, the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the east, and the Bay of Fundy to the south, famous for its spectacular tides
Cradle of Acadia
New Brunswickers have a good example of cohabitation. Proud of their Francophone, Anglophone and Amerindian heritage, they maintain their heritage in various museums dedicated to each of their cultures. Among the province's strongest footprints, of course, is that of Acadia, rooted to the north and on the eastern shore of the territory. Recruited in Touraine, Berry but especially in Poitou-Charentes, many settlers were sent in the 17th century to populate the lands, at the time French, of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. In 1713, the Treaty of Utrecht ceded this territory, better known as Acadia, to the English, who demanded that all be loyal to the Crown. The Acadians' refusal led, in 1755, to their mass deportation, known as the Great Upheaval, a dramatic historical episode for the province. Of the 15,000 Acadians, several thousand found refuge in the woods among the Mi'kmaq, others were forced to return to France and many went into exile in the bayous of Louisiana, Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon or the Magdalen Islands (Quebec) and Prince Edward Island. In 1840, however, a law allowed the official return of Acadians to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia
Today, Acadians form a vibrant community of more than 350,000 people. The vast majority of them live in New Brunswick (250,000), a law passed in 1969 made the province the only province in Canada to be officially bilingual. The Acadian Coastal Route links the various attractions of the region from Caraquet, where the historic Acadian village is located. We walk around the authentic houses of this open-air museum, which recreates the way of life of the inhabitants of the time with interpreters in costume and wagon rides. You can continue your journey back in time in the Pays de la Sagouine, another exceptional site inspired by the famous play by Antonine Maillet, a great 20th century Acadian author, and reproducing the ancestral traditions of the region's Acadians
A generous coastal nature
Located a little off Canada's major tourist routes, New Brunswick has a wild and particularly well preserved natural environment. This is the case of its beaches, which stretch as far as the eye can see. Many Canadians from other provinces come to enjoy these large expanses of fine sand and the calm water around them in the summer, although not always very warm. One of the most beautiful destinations to discover along this coastline, Kouchibouguac National Park is popular throughout the province. It is known for its unique ecosystems that support dozens of grey seals that linger on the lagoons and colonies of common terns that nest on rocky islets, beaches and along the park's marshes each spring. Hikes in rabaska, the traditional Amerindian boat, as well as by bike and on foot are available all year round
A few kilometres further south, we discover the Bouctouche dunes, just as picturesque with their 2 km wooden footbridge that allows you to walk without damaging the fragile vegetation. South of the Chignectou Isthmus, which connects New Brunswick to Nova Scotia, is the Bay of Fundy National Park, the province's natural gem. The landscapes that border it are marked by the gigantic tides, the highest in the world, which twice a day attack the shores and then withdraw by tearing off huge quantities of land
Within the park's boundaries are endless beaches, caves carved into cliffs that can be explored at low tide, and the mushroom-shaped rocks of Hopewell Rocks, known here as "flowerpots" because of their vegetation-covered top. A rich and varied fauna also inhabits the area: moose, foxes and black bears in the forest; seals, seabirds and whales in the waters of the bay
A unique culinary tradition
Due to New Brunswick's poor soil, Acadians have had to turn to fishing to feed their families, as evidenced by the fishing hamlets along the province's coastline. And of all the culinary specialties of the sea that make up New Brunswick cuisine, lobster is the star. It is also possible to have your picture taken in front of a giant specimen (in the form of a statue) at the entrance to the coastal town of Shediac, the lobster capital where a major festival is held every summer. It is here that gourmet visitors can take part in a tasting cruise in the warm waters of the bay and learn all the secrets of preparing this succulent shellfish.
Another of the most traditional specialities to discover in the province is New Brunswick's grated poutine. Very different from Quebec poutine (made with chips, meat sauce and cheese curds), the Acadian version is a large ball of cooked and crushed potatoes, filled with bacon and boiled in water for several hours. A satiating dish made from the rudimentary ingredients of peasant food, which over the centuries has become Acadia's national dish. You can eat it in many restaurants along the Acadian coastal road and especially in southeastern New Brunswick where this poutine is very popular.
Outdoor activities for sale
In addition to its cuisine, New Brunswick's coastline also offers a wide range of outdoor excursions that allow you to discover the province. For contemplatives who wish to meet the most emblematic animal species of Eastern Canada, it is possible to participate, in the surroundings of Acadieville, in an excursion in the forest to observe the black bear in all its splendour
Further south in the province, all you have to do is take a zodiac trip off Saint Andrews by-the-Sea to admire the whales that evolve into a poetic aquatic ballet. Sailing cruises and diving are also very popular activities. Salmon enthusiasts will put on their high boots and dive their line into the Miramichi River
No one could complete a trip to New Brunswick without participating in a sea kayaking excursion around the flowerpot-shaped rocks of the Bay of Fundy National Park
Smart info
When? When? Summer is certainly the best time to visit New Brunswick. It is rarely too hot thanks to the sea breeze that cools the coastal regions. Spring and autumn are also beautiful seasons, although sometimes rainy. Powder lovers will be spoiled in winter.
Getting there. A trip to New Brunswick from France requires a flight with a stopover, most often to Montreal or Toronto
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