"Quand on partait de bon matin, quand on partait sur les chemins, à bicyclette..." (When we set off early in the morning, when we set off along the paths, on bicycles...), that's the tune you'll find yourself humming as you set off to conquer this formidable Pyrenean itinerary, the aptly named Pirinexus! What's it all about? Pirinexus is a 340 km circular cycle touring route linking the Catalan territories of Spain and France. It's accessible to all, so you can cycle it at your own pace. Le Petit Futé takes you on an invigorating heritage tour, against a backdrop of refreshing Pyrenean panoramas!
Pirinexus, who are you?
Zigzagging in all directions across Catalonia, the "voies vertes" (or "vies verdes") are former railroad lines that have been converted into bucolic cycle tourism circuits. A total of 3,300 km of these greenways can be found throughout Spain. Inspired by this network and the long-distance Eurovélo routes, Catalonia has decided to develop a new route specifically for the Pyrenees.
A cross-border route, physically accessible and highlighting the cultural, historical and scenic riches of the regions it crosses. This was achieved in 2013 with Pirinexus! 340 km of routes equipped with 700 signs encouraging sustainable mobility and oscillating between sea level and 1,500 meters above sea level.
Starting from Girona, the Pirinexus is a combination of greenways, forest tracks and low-traffic country roads. For the best possible experience, we recommend a sturdy, versatile trekking or gravel bike. A bike halfway between a mountain bike and a road bike will be perfect for this adventure. Let's take a look at your options: two, four or six days?
The sporty option: two days
Here's a challenge that will appeal to the most athletic cyclists: two days of cycling, at a rate of 170 km per day! Departing from Girona, the first stage will take you to the pretty French Occitan town of Le Boulou, via the 1,500-meter-high Col d'Ares. To do this, you'll take the Carrilet road, pass through Olot - capital of the verdant, volcanic Garrotxa region - and then reach the historic village of Sant Joan de les Abadesses.
From here, the Ripollès comarca is splendid, as is the village of Camprodon! Once over the pass, a long descent takes you to Le Boulou. The next day, a tarmac track takes you to the Col de Panissars (361 m) for another border crossing. Then it's on to La Jonquera for the most difficult part: the forest path is sandy and steep! After that, it's a piece of cake: the groves accompany you all the way to the sea and then onto the Palamós-Girona greenway!
Four days, between sporting challenge and heritage
If you plan to spend four days on the same itinerary, you'll be able to discover the places you pass through more calmly, without neglecting the physical effort. As with the two-day itinerary, the first stage takes you from Girona to picturesque Sant Joan de les Abadesses (75.7 km). The following day, high mountain scenery on the Camprodon side, then the Col d'Ares and descent to Le Boulou (86.6 km).
Day 3: Mission Jonquera, the toughest stage! The wine-growing villages of Capamany and Peralda are a choice stopover before L'Escala, the first town on the Costa Brava (75.7 km)! On to Palafrugell and its fruit trees for the final day. The Tren Petit (Little Train) route is perfectly rural, as is the Carrilet II route, which will take you to your destination (97.3 km)!
Six days of cycling and culture
The six-day version of the Pirinexus is more serene: nature, culture and gastronomy take precedence over sport! Count on an average of 50 km per day here. On the first day, 69 km of cycling will take you to beautiful Olot and its very own culinary offering. The next day, you'll reach Molló via a pleasant asphalt road (22 km climb at 4%), with culture/architecture stops at Sant Joan de les Abadesses and Camprodon (45.7 km). Once over the Col d'Ares and its memorial - it was a route of exile during the Spanish Civil War - we start the descent to the charming French town of Céret, famous for its cherries (55 km). Crossing the border again on Day 4, the destination is Peralada and its medieval castle, via La Jonquera and the seaside (52.1 km). L'Escala, the ancient remains of the port of Sant Martí d'Empúries and the Tren Petit greenway are next on the menu, with an overnight stay in Palamós (76.6 km). Finally, for the last stage (52.85 km), the Carrilet II route is just as charming as Girona, its Call (former Jewish quarter), cathedral and city walls!
TIPS
Where to go?
Spain's Catalonia and the south of France's Occitanie region are particularly pleasant to visit in spring and autumn.
The weather is mild and the paths are generally not too busy. Summer is also a great season for cycling, provided you prefer the beginning and end of the day for physical exertion. In winter, it's a good idea to be properly equipped: at 1,500 metres, it can get pretty chilly!
Duration
As indicated in the article, it all depends on your fitness level and your objectives. If you really want to enjoy nature and heritage in peace and quiet, you can stretch your trip out to a good week, or even 10 days!
Public
The itinerary may be moderately difficult, but it's not easy either! A minimum level of physical fitness is therefore a prerequisite if you want to make this swerve a pleasure.
The sections of the Pirinexus that include greenways, i.e. 1/3 of the route, are accessible to all.
Highlights
Signposted routes in the heart of nature or on roads with little traffic.
A varied and ancient architecturalheritage.
Gastronomic and oenological delights.
Generally mildweather.
Minus
A demanding physicaltest for those choosing the 2-day option.
The language barrier on the Spanish side.
Useful
On the Pirinexus website, you can download the itineraries and use them in Google Maps, Wikiloc and Instamaps. And if you've got an electric bike, there are charging stations all along the route.
For more information, visit this website (in French).
