Natural Crafts French Guiana

Certainly the most challenging trail around Saül, thanks to its undulating terrain, but also one of the most beautiful. You'll walk along part of the Nouvelle France creek, past the Roche Bateau (a huge rock overlooking the creek). As well as finding a passing carbet, you'll pass by the Kanawa gîte where you can cool off! So pack your picnic for a great day's hiking, your hammock if you want to rest halfway through, and your swimsuit for a refreshing dip... Enjoy the ride!

The Kaw marshes are part of the Kaw-Roura nature reserve, which extends over 94,700 ha between the communes of Régina (on which the village of Kaw depends) and Roura. Management was first entrusted to the Arataï association (ministerial decree of March 13, 1998), then in February 2008 to the Association de gestion des espaces protégés (AGEP). Today, management of the reserve has been entrusted to the Parc Naturel Régional de Guyane (PNRG) since February 27, 2014.

In a grandiose setting, the Kaw River winds its way through magnificent flooded savannahs, amidst moucou-moucou, arums with large heart-shaped leaves. Zebus, a kind of humped oxen, move heavily through the water. In the air or underwater, life is everywhere, teeming and mysterious. As the boat glides gently over the surface of the water, your eyes and ears are alerted to the diversity of the still rich fauna, so protected and yet so threatened... Musk ducks and piprites cast you a sidelong glance, motionless, perched on the grasses, while numerous jacanas delight you with the unexpected yellow that unfolds in their lively, mischievous flight.

Manatees used to accompany the pirogues, but are now rare. Occasionally, the eye catches a hoazin, recognizable by the glorious crest on its head. All in all, a spectacle full of surprises for the attentive and curious visitor.

The Montabo trail is just under 4 km long (3.8 km to be exact), winding its way through the jungle, with multiple ascents and descents, and overlooking the ocean all the way! It's a great way to get in some exercise and enjoy the beautiful scenery, flora and fauna just outside Cayenne, without straying far from the city. Allow around 1? hours round trip for the less athletic. A pleasant trail with no particular difficulties, offering beautiful panoramic views.

The easy "sentier des gros arbres" (big trees trail) takes you deep into the primary forest, offering an adventure to meet its giants. You'll discover some magnificent trees: fromager, ficus, hourglass (on this trail you'll find the largest hourglass in French Guiana, measuring 3 metres in diameter). Here, you'll have to forget your usual landmarks: for a good two hours, you'll be in the heart of vegetation as powerful as it is wild. It's a delightful walk for the whole family (easy level, perfectly accessible to children).

The history of this penitentiary is relatively poorly described in Guyanese literature, with frequent contradictions. The establishment was set up in 1931 to deport Indochinese nationals guilty of crimes or who had been too vocal in their pro-independence intentions. The majority of these prisoners came from the Annam region in central Vietnam, which explains the camp's name.

The prison operated until 1938, but for most of the deportees, the journey to French Guiana was a one-way trip. Constantly on the lookout for workers, the colonial authorities hoped that the released prisoners would stay on to develop the land. When this became a compulsory rule, the prisoners revolted violently, but their insurrection was crushed without mercy. Detention conditions were extremely harsh at the Annamite camp. Austere dungeons, hard labor and iron discipline combined with a climate conducive to the development of numerous diseases, including malaria, which wreaked havoc in the area.

Scattered here and there, the remains of the penal colony are now abandoned. Rust-ridden and overgrown, they make for a surprisingly gloomy sight. At the entrance to the trail, a veritable forest tunnel, a sign provides a few historical landmarks about the penitentiary. The visit is divided into two successive itineraries. The first section takes around 40 minutes. After this pleasant walk, you come to a clearing where most of the remains of the penal colony are grouped together. You'll discover wagons, cells... You can also take the second part of the trail, which for a while follows an old railroad installed by the convicts (approx. 30-40 minutes' walk). The trail ends at the small Anguille creek, where you can swim and picnic. If you're tempted to take a dip, be careful, as stingrays and eels can lurk beneath the sandbanks! Although the path is not very well signposted, it's hard to get lost if you stick to the wooden slats on the ground, which show you the way. It's an easy stroll, but as with any walk, you'll need comfortable footwear, as the whole circuit is 7 km long.

This creek is often described as the most beautiful in the country and the closest to Cayenne. Gabriel Creek flows into the Mahury at the Roura bridge in Stoupan. It's best to go during the week, as you'll be almost alone.

After a few hundred meters, you'll reach the landing stage for the village of Dacca. A little further on, the vegetation changes, the cove becomes narrower and the water takes on an amber color. If the time and season are right, many morphos (large metallic blue butterflies, symbols of French Guiana) will come to greet you. A word of advice: make sure you don't make any noise, and keep your eyes peeled for monkeys and lazy sheep.

Further on, after passing under the old wooden bridge of Dégrad-Eskol, the creek leaves the forest for the swampy savannah, where the scenery is superb. Then it becomes narrower and it's time to turn back. The only precaution to take on this lovely pirogue ride is to check the tide. At low tide, the level of the creek won't allow you to go far, making it impossible to cross Dégrad-Eskol.

To reach the banks of Gabriel Creek, you have two options: you can launch your boat just after the Mahury bridge, to the left of the landing stage. This will allow you to sail up the entire creek. Alternatively, continue on to the village of Roura in the direction of Dacca (turn left past the town hall).

A magnificent circular trail runs along the crest of the Rorota plateau, overlooking the coast and offering some splendid (and sometimes hidden) viewpoints. If you're quiet and attentive to noise, it's not uncommon to come across a few saimiri monkeys leaping over the path... But the main reason for going here is to see the sloths, generally found in the treetops just after the first ascent, as you come to the loop. At the top, you reach Lac du Rorota, which serves as a freshwater reservoir for the city of Cayenne.

The site, located on the grounds of the Centre Spatial (CSG) and maintained by the ONF, is magnificent. You can choose between the botanical trail, a loop of around 650 m, or the more challenging 3.3 km trail over the summit of Montagne des Singes: the sentier de la Montagne. From here, you have a magnificent viewpoint, not to mention the diversity of the environments traversed. There's a carbet under which you can picnic and stretch out your hammock. The paths are easy to follow, but it's best to stay on them. Stay safe and enjoy!

The shortest signposted route from Saül, starting from Chez Lulu. At the summit, at an altitude of 312 meters, a wooden deck offers a splendid view of the forest and the village. This short hike is particularly interesting for birdwatching. Before sunrise and sunset (the best times for observation), you can enjoy the flight of the macaws, which have taken up residence in the trees at the top of the hill. The calls of these giant parrots are as impressive as their wingspan.

The commune is bordered for several kilometers by superb beaches shaped by erosion. The forest provides a splendid, mystical backdrop to the beach. At low tide, the peaceful ocean invites you to take a dip without too much risk, while at high tide, surfers are treated to regular and sometimes impressive waves. At weekends, the beaches are crowded without being overcrowded. Beware: there are no lifeguards here, and the current can be very dangerous!

Along the Montjoly beach, you'll find the Salines trail, signposted by illustrated panels providing information on the beach's flora. The trail crosses dune vegetation while skirting coastal marshes, and leads halfway to the sheltered observatory, from where you can contemplate numerous birds and the occasional caiman. The trail then continues into the mangrove swamp, which is generally difficult to access, and is crossed by a footbridge running between the mangroves. A very pleasant 2.5 km semi-shaded walk.

Mont Grand-Matoury : at 234 m, this is the highest hill on the island of Cayenne. The 2,700-hectare forest has been regularly logged since the ^17th century. Wood from the forest fed the boilers of the Mirande distillery (the ruins on the Matoury road), and the slopes, once cleared, were planted with sugar cane, destined for the Mirande factory, then the Rémire factory until 1984.

The Mirande forest: in 1942, it was classified as a forest reserve by a decree issued by the colonial administration at the time. An arrêté de conservation de biotope (biotope conservation order) was signed on April 11, 1994, covering the entire mountain, which is also classified as a Znieff (natural zone of ecological, faunistic and floristic interest).

The Mirande nature trail is probably one of the most beautiful walks you can do around Cayenne in 3 hours. A path winds its way through Mont Grand-Matoury, a nature reserve populated mainly by birds. Encounters with wildlife are frequent, but it's at sunrise and sunset that the chances of spotting macaws, toucans or sloths are greatest. The Paypayo trail (2.5 km loop) takes you through a primary forest rich in biodiversity. The "Cascades" trail (2.8 km loop) follows the small waterfalls of the Mancelière creek. Allow 2 to 3 hours for both trails.

The Amana nature reserve lies between the villages of Awala and Yalimapo, covering an area of around 14,800 hectares, from the Maroni to the mouth of the Organabo. Beaches, mangroves, lagoons, marshes and mudflats make up this wetland area, the management of which has been entrusted by the state to the Syndicat intercommunal à vocation unique (SIVU) de l'Amana since 1998. The aim is to learn more about the biology and behavior of sea turtles, and to protect one of the world's most important leatherback nesting sites. Visitor reception, public information, compliance with regulations and scientific monitoring are the SIVU's missions. A sea turtle museum completes the picture.

If you're in French Guiana between July and September, you can witness the hatching of the eggs: tiny turtles emerge from the earth into the ocean. You can save them by warding off predators, such as birds and dogs, who see this spectacle as an opportunity to feast. Today, Hattes beach is a victim of its own success: as far as possible, avoid coming to watch the turtles lay their eggs at weekends, as the crowds, unscrupulous about the intimacy of egg-laying, disturb the turtles.

The mangroves are also home to herons and egrets, while iguanas gather along the coast every year during the egg-laying season. Further south lies the Coswine River marsh, home to Guyana's only sphagnum bog.

The Oyapock is the second longest river in French Guiana after the Maroni, covering 370 km. The adventure begins with a hundred or so jumps, the most formidable of which is the Maripa jump: 2 km of rapids and a 14 m drop! On this stretch, the Oyapock River rushes through rapids in the heart of the Amazon rainforest. Lovers of pre-Columbian vestiges will be able to find polissoirs on rocks washed by the waters of the river and its tributaries, while others will enjoy the calm of the area and the wealth of wildlife in this little paradise.

Not far from Creeque Canceler is Creeque Toussaint, 3 km from the town of Sinnamary. Its sandy shores and the large carbet set up on the banks of the waterway invite you to take a restorative break or even a picnic stop (tables and benches are available). Fishermen and swimmers alike will be delighted by the creek's fish-filled waters: the shallow riverbed is quite wide, and a little deeper near the bridge.

While not spectacular, these falls are an opportunity to dip your feet in pure, white water. Take care when moving around, as the humidity makes the rocks very slippery. The area is pleasant, but lacks maintenance. The wooden installations have deteriorated and some unscrupulous visitors "forget" to pick up their garbage. What a shame! To get there, a difficult, steep laterite path on the right leaves the road on the left. 3 km further on, a clearing invites you to leave your vehicle and head for the waterfalls below.

At the edge of the forest, opposite the Montsinéry zoo, you'll have to leave your vehicle behind and walk the 400 m to reach Creeque Patate (just take a white sand track to get there). The rainy season often makes this an impassable spot, unless you're a daredevil! Otherwise, it's an ideal place to enjoy a sunny afternoon, swim and picnic. Creeque Patate is very popular with the local population, so the site tends to be very busy at weekends.

This waterway had its heyday in the days of gold panning. Today, Cayenne Islanders have built their weekend cabins here. Despite the noise of the outboard motors, the calm of the forest is soon restored as you pass the village of Cacao and the Saut Bief. Shortly afterwards, Bagot Creek can be climbed for a few kilometers. The river's often low water level means you'll have to be careful and pull your canoe along the creek's sandy bottom. Several bivouac sites are available.

The main attraction of Régina is the Approuague, a wild, deserted river, the fourth longest in French Guiana (270 km). It rises in the Massif Central south of Saül. Among its magnificent jumps, the most famous are the Grand-Machicou and the Grand-Canori, the most spectacular in the region with its 19 m vertical drop. This road, or rather liquid trail, was used in the last century by the adventurers of El Dorado. Today, only the names of Impératrice, Titine, Boeuf-Mort, Dardanelles... still sing the epic tale of these adventurers of days gone by. The ascent can be very difficult during the dry season. The Approuague has a notorious reputation for breaking equipment. The rocks hidden just a few centimetres under the water are much harder than the motor's propeller. The ascent from Régina should be made with the tide in mind: pushed by the tide, you'll save a lot of time and fuel.

A few kilometers from Régina, on the right bank of the Approuague, lies the hamlet of Saint-Esprit. The discovery of this tiny, timeless village, populated by just a few souls, will come as a surprise. Every year on June 24, followers of the Colombe d'Or (Golden Dove) engage in a number of ritual practices, including walking barefoot across a bed of embers: a mystical atmosphere and guaranteed thrills!

Still on the right bank of the Approuague, we come across the Mataroni River. The flora and fauna here are quite rich, with the exception of the first few kilometers where the Legion has set up camp. After crossing the Yapoura, Bois, Dagomelle and Magasin jumps, and finally the Lavillette jump, the pirogue has to be pulled up onto the rocks after a long walk. At the foot of the jump, there's a very pleasant bivouac and swimming area.

Continuing up the Approuague, we arrive at the Tourépé jump, the first and, for some, the last, as the "Tourépé wave" can be difficult. After passing Saut Mapaou, where the tide finally stops, you reach the magnificent site of Saut Athanase, dominated by the village of the same name on the heights of the right bank, then Cisame.

After Saut Colonis, the river becomes narrower, more beautiful and wilder. Saut Aïkoupaï offers you the chance to bivouac on the islet on the left bank. You leave the Arataï River on your right.

After crossing the Kalawéli jump, you arrive at Grand-Machicou. The site is equipped with several carbets, some of which are covered. The site is truly beautiful. Allow 3 days for the round trip from Régina. Climbing Machicou is another matter... Machicou has five steps, so you have to find the passes, and that's where the problem lies. The best solution is to wait for a supply boat of gold miners to show up. Follow it, but be careful... you'll first have to motor up the first four steps. The fifth step is impassable, and you'll have to carry the canoe 250 m through the forest. Many canoes, overloaded or hesitant, or lacking sufficient power, end up at the bottom of the river. A veritable Ali Baba's cave is thus found at a depth of 7 m to 8 m: canoes, motors, guns and even, it seems, gold. After all that effort, a punch will be welcome to savor the victory over the Grand-Machicou. The ascent continues, easily over the Petit-Machicou jump, followed by the barely perceptible Ménado, Bois-Blanc, Bouchard and Petit-Canori jumps.

The Petit-Canori can be motorized via a small bistoury on the left bank. Beware, the current is quite strong and there are a lot of stones at water level. It is therefore advisable, if you have an aluminum hull, to cross the jump directly in the middle by pulling the boat with a rope, a fairly easy and safer method. Once you've cleared the jump, it's just 5 minutes to the splendid Grand-Canori jump, which creates Guyana's highest waterfall, 19 m high and 400 m long. At the foot of the jump, you'll find a superb bivouac site. To protect the site, the trail does not go as far as the falls.

Grand-Canori often represents the end of the climb up the Approuague. The rest is more of an expedition: first, you have to carry the boat over the jump. A wide, 2 km-long layon on the right bank takes you there. It takes a good day to complete this portage. Be aware that gold miners pull 200-litre drums of petrol up the slopes of this layon, carry engines weighing over 80 kg, and above all pull, push and carry long, heavy wooden canoes weighing several hundred kilos. The course of the Approuague above Grand-Canori is wilder, and jumps are more dangerous due to the stronger current. If before Grand-Canori you saw few birds and game, now you'll see plenty. The Petit-Japigny and Grand-Japigny jumps provide good bivouacs. A natural grotto beneath Grand-Japigny is a great photo opportunity. There are several more or less legal gold-panning sites in the upper Approuague. It takes 2 days to reach Grand-Machicou and another day to reach Grand-Canori.