Streets squares and districts to visit Cuba

The historical and architectural heart of Trinidad, the Plaza Mayor (the former Plaza Fernando VII, Plaza de la Constitución, then Plaza Serrano), constitutes one of the most homogeneous sets of the colonial period in Cuba. Elegant and distinguished with its pastel tones, it concentrates the most beautiful colonial mansions built between the 18th and 19th centuries by the great local families, some of which have been transformed into museums. Today, the house of the magistrate Ortíz houses the Guamu-haya Archaeological Museum (on the west side of the square, on Calle Martínez). The Museum of Trinitarian Architecture is housed in the Sánchez-Iznaga house (south of the square). The Romantic Museum is located in the heart of the Counts of Brunet's palace (northeast, corner of Bolívar and Echerri streets). In addition to the church and the beautiful buildings of undeniable character that surround it, its royal palms and cobbled streets complete the ensemble perfectly. It is truly one of the most beautiful squares in Trinidad, if not in Cuba, and when a beautiful sunset or full moon comes along, memories are guaranteed... On weekends and holidays, this is also where all the Trinitarios go. So come by on a Saturday afternoon, then in the evening, to observe the social life of the city: sellers of toys and other sweets, children running around, families celebrating a birthday, teenage love affairs in their infancy, old people taking the cool of the evening... The whole society is there!

This dead-end street in a working-class neighborhood is entirely dedicated to Afro-Cuban culture (murals, including one by artist Salvador Escalona, and sculptures inspired by santería and Palo Monte). It is a space where you can enjoy all the variations of the rumba. Every Sunday from noon, it is rumba en el cayo, as much as to say the traditional rumba, the real one of true! It starts calmly, with professional groups, then, it heats up quickly as the bottles of rum are emptied. The rumberos of all Cayo Hueso (that's how we call this part of Havana) come here to confront their dancing talents. Very popular and authentic, even if the information is far from being confidential today and many tourists come to attend the show. The nave del olvido (bathtub nave) rules the place and evokes the spirit of the creation of the Callejón. A central dome protects the musicians from the sun. In front of it, there is a room full of objects related to the santería and other Afro-Cuban cults, which is hosted by a fortune teller!

By the way, if you are interested in Santería and Afro-Cuban spirituality, you will find in Elias an exceptional interlocutor. The young man, colorful and joking, is a fine connoisseur of the subject. He will be happy to take you to the nooks and crannies of the place, from the art gallery to the altars, and will explain to you (in Spanish) what it is all about. We like it.

Entirely reserved for pedestrians, this pretty square built in the 18th century - Plaza del Carmen means the Square of Charm in French - is surrounded by pastel-colored colonial houses and pretty little restaurants. Note the elegant lamp posts, the famous tinajónes (huge earthenware jars), but especially the statues of Martha Jimenez, an artist recognized by UNESCO for her ceramic works, which embellish the whole. Her bronze statues represent historical characters of the city (the water seller in tinajones, the couple of lovers, the newspaper reader who is the only living character represented) or imaginary figures such as "the celestial gossips" who are sitting seemingly in the middle of a gossip session... If you sit on the free chair and ask them to grant a wish, your wish will come true. This superstition, created by Martha Jiménez Pérez, is a way to make passers-by participate in this work of art. Afterwards, you can believe it, or not.

Nearby, visit the beautiful Baroque church of Carmen with two bell towers (19th century), the only one in the region. Completely restored in 2002, it adjoins the Ursuline convent, dating from 1829, whose patio with beautiful arcades invites meditation. After the departure of the sisters to Havana, the convent sheltered hurricane victims and a school for the poor. The premises now house the offices of the city's official historian.

The Havana people simply call it the Plaza, because, of all the Cuban squares, it is undoubtedly the best known and the most significant. Larger than the Plaza de la Concorde, it is still too small for large political gatherings, especially the one on May^1st. The Ministry of the Interior, the National Theater, the National Library and the building housing the Council of State, the Council of Ministers and the Central Committee of the Communist Party frame the square, which makes this Revolutionary Square the epicenter of political life in Cuba and explains the large police presence there, even if it is not immediately noticeable... What is striking are the huge portraits of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos that dominate the square.

It is in this vast space that the Cubans have taken, since 1959, the most important decisions of their history. Fidel Castro has made long and passionate speeches in front of huge crowds of attentive listeners. Contrary to what many foreigners imagine, the Plaza de la Revolución is not the work of the revolutionary government, since the idea of building a civic plaza goes back to the advent of the republic. It was in 1953, during the Batista regime, that the construction of the Plaza Cívica began, which was renamed Plaza de la Revolución on July 16, 1961. The first major event celebrated after the triumph of the revolution was the International Workers' Day on May¹, 1961.

Built in 1559 after the Plaza de Armas, intended for the military at the time, the Plaza Vieja (Old Square) quickly became the heart of the city. The first attempt at urban planning in the history of post-Columbian America, its layout innovated in relation to the Spanish urban organization with the integration of private residences. With the advent of the pseudo-republic (1902-1959), many of the beautiful homes of the past were replaced by buildings of no interest. You will pass by here more than once.

The Plaza de Armas, formerly the Plaza de la Iglesia (Church Square), houses the city's first parish church. In addition to being a religious symbol, it is also the site of political and military institutions. After the demolition of the church in 1776, the square took on its current dimensions. In the 19th century, the captain general gave grandiose parties there, and the nobility rode in carriages. From restoration to restoration, the square has recovered its 1841 appearance: only the statue of Ferdinand VII has been replaced by that of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes.

It is the second square of the city. Its origins date back to the second half of the 16th century. It owes its name to the church and convent of St. Francis of Assisi, built at the end of that same century. Situated in front of the harbor docks, the square is an important commercial center. The crews of the royal fleet would refuel here, drop off their goods and spend some time here before continuing their journey. The facades have been freshly restored.

The Plaza de la Catedral is one of the most beautiful squares in the city, the most famous anyway. The most harmonious too. It is considered the best preserved colonial architectural complex in Latin America. The pavement is arranged in such a way as to form a cross in the center (you would have to be at a high altitude to see this clearly). Unlike the most famous squares in Europe, this one was designed on a modest, human scale. Musicians often perform in the café to the left of the cathedral. A plaque recalls the visit of Pope John Paul II to Havana in January 1998. The first documents, at the end of the 16th century, mention the square as Plaza de la Ciénaga (Marsh Square), because of the waters that, in the rainy season, turned it into a pond. In 1592, a fresh water tank was built in the Callejón del Chorro (Water Fountain Alley) to supply ships. The marsh was drained in the 17th century, and at the beginning of the 18th century the construction of some of the buildings that we see there today began. At the end of the 18th century, the former Jesuit church was consecrated as a cathedral, and the square took on its present name. In addition to the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Habana, other notable buildings frame the square: the Palacio de los Marqueses de Aguas Claras, the Palacio del Conde de Lombillo, the Palacio del Marqués de Arcos, the Palacio de los Condes de Casa Bayona and the Wifredo Lam Contemporary Art Center.

The church is in ruins, but the place has preserved real authenticity.