Ecosystems under pressure
Forests under threat. Albania is the only country in Europe with declining forest cover. They cover 1.05 million hectares (10,500 km²), or 36% of the territory, compared with 80% in 1943. This is the result of intense logging during the Communist era and illegal deforestation on an unprecedented scale since 1992. The situation is such that in 2016, Parliament voted to ban logging for ten years. Yet illegal deforestation continues, with 2 to 3 times more trees being cut than replanted. The country lost another 400 ha between 2016 and 2019. At the same time, the state itself has sold 600 ha of forest to mining and hydroelectric companies. Primary forests, with trees over 120 years old, have all but disappeared: they represented 7% of the territory in 1997 and less than 1% today. Called ahu in Albanian, the common beech(Fagus sylvatica) is the most common tree, found throughout the country at altitudes ranging from 800 to 1,900m. The main beech forests are found in the eastern part of the country, while elsewhere we find mixed forests where beech grows alongside white fir(Abies alba), black pine(Pinus nigra), Bosnian pine(Pinus heldreichii) and Macedonian pine(Pinus peuce). Only the latter two grow above an altitude of 1,600 m.
Rivers in danger. Albania's nine major rivers are suffering from deforestation and, above all, the development of hydroelectric power generation. Launched during the Communist era, dam construction has gone into overdrive since 1992, with the result that virtually all the country's rivers have been modified, and with them a whole range of biodiversity sacrificed. Only the Vjosa, the country's2nd longest river (272 km, including 80 km in Greece), has escaped the disaster. It is considered one of Europe's last wild rivers. But a huge dam is to be built near Përmet, transforming the Vjosa forever. In all, the country plans to increase the number of hydroelectric power stations from the current 150 to 440.
Wetlands in recovery. Like the Karavasta lagoon, the country's wetlands are doing rather well. Unlike forests and rivers, lakes, lagoons and deltas have benefited from the collapse of the dictatorship. During the Communist era, these areas were drastically developed for agricultural purposes. Since 1992, however, they have been gradually restored to their original state due to a lack of maintenance. Despite pollution from the port of Durrës, today they are sanctuaries for thousands of migratory birds on their way to Africa or Asia. Such is the case of the rare Dalmatian pelican(Pelecanus crispus). This endangered species has made the coastline between Durrës and Vlora its main breeding site in Europe. In 2019, the Narta and Karavasta lagoons welcomed more than 200 Dalmatian pelicans, with 69 pairs nesting on site. There have also been improvements around lakes such as Prespa, another birdwatcher's paradise. In the far south, however, the Butrint lagoon was a disappointment.
Dangerous species
While some small Mediterranean beasts can be frightening, they are often harmless. In fact, the most devastating species in Albania is man.
Spiders. Of the 491 species recorded in the country, only one poses a danger to humans: the Mediterranean black widow spider(Latrodectus tredecimguttatus). Recognizable by its large abdomen covered with red spots, it is also found in Corsica. In Albania, it has been responsible for a number of deaths since 2000, including two in 2006 alone. However, its bite is fatal in only 1.7% of cases. Another concern is the appearance of new species proliferating as a result of global warming, for which there is as yet no scientific data in Albania. Moreover, the country has only one endemic species: theHarpactea albanica, which is small, rare and harmless to humans.
Scorpions. You're bound to come across them, both near the coast and in the mountains... and even in your bathroom, as has already happened to us. But of the six species present in Albania, only the Mediterranean scorpion(Mesobuthus gibbosus) has a toxic venom. Yellow or sandy in color and 7 cm long, it has caused only a few cases of hospitalization in recent years, but no complications or deaths. It is therefore not dangerous for healthy humans. Fans will be looking for the country's only endemic species: theEuscorpius beroni. Small, brown and harmless, it can be found in the Albanian Alps at altitudes of 1,400 m and above.
Snakes. Of the sixteen species living in Albania, three are considered dangerous to humans. The most venomous is the horned viper(Vipera ammodytes), but it has not caused any recent deaths in the country. Identifiable by its horn, it measures from 45 to 95 cm in length. It can be found throughout the country at altitudes of up to 1,800 m. Its venom is highly toxic and requires rapid medical attention. The other two dangerous species are the Ram's viper(Vipera berus) and the Orsini's viper(Vipera ursinii), also found in France. Their bites rarely cause serious complications.
Rarity of fauna and flora
Long isolated and little-known, Albania is gradually revealing a much richer flora and fauna than previously imagined.
Endemic species. There are very few. Only 81 species are native to Albania alone, compared with 2,000 in neighbouring Greece. But researchers have only recently begun to take an interest in the country, so new species are being discovered almost every year now. Among the thirty endemic plants, for example, two pretty flowers have only recently been discovered. The Albanian tulip(Tulipa albanica) was identified in 2010 in Surroj, near Kukkës. Its petals are red or yellow. Albanian garlic(Allium albanicum) was discovered in 2018. It produces small white flowers and can only be found in the rocky terrain of the northern part of the region. As for insects, thirteen local species are listed, including one since 2019: a pest arthropod called Vadoniaalbanica. There are also five species of snail and two species of fish living in the wild rivers of the south-east. Last but not least, Albania is home to five endemic insects and invertebrates, including the aforementioned scorpion Euscorpius beroni, discovered in 2000.
Turtles. The country is home to eight species, most of them rare and/or threatened. The Albanian coastline is a nesting area for four marine species: the green turtle(Chelonia mydas), the leatherback turtle(Dermochelys coriacea), the hawksbill turtle(Eretmochelys imbricata) and the loggerhead turtle(Caretta caretta). But due to tourism, their presence on beaches has become sporadic. The hawksbill turtle, for example, has only been seen once, in 1997. However, efforts are being made with the creation in 2016 of the Patok lagoon sea turtle center, south of Lezha. Two freshwater turtles are endangered by pollution: the pintail(Emys orbicularis), also found in southern France, and the Mauremys rivulata, typical of the Balkans. Finally, two terrestrial species are in steep decline due to deforestation: Hermann's tortoise(Testudo hermanni), once present throughout the country up to 1,000 m altitude, and its cousin, the border tortoise(Testudo marginata), which only survives near Saranda.
Butterflies. With 208 recorded species, forty of which have recently been recorded, Albania has become a destination for lepidopterists, or butterfly lovers. Some species are common to the south of France, such as the little sylvander(Hipparchia hermione) and the apollo(Parnassius apollo), with white wings spotted with red and black. But others are typical of the Balkans and the Middle East, such as the very rare Macedonian ocellate(Pseudochazara cingovskii) and the asymmetrically patterned steppe sulphur(Euchloe penia).
Emblematic animals
Three species are the pride of the Albanian people. But while they are theoretically protected by a total ban on hunting, their habitat is steadily shrinking.
Golden eagle. You're more likely to see the country's symbol stuffed in a restaurant than flying over the mountains. The golden eagle(Aquila chrysaetos) is disappearing from Albania: from 200 pairs in 1992 to less than 100 today. In fact, all birds of prey are under threat. Some 150,000 eagles, falcons and kites have been slaughtered since the fall of the Communist regime. This is due to poaching, with Italian hunters clearing Albanian skies in the 1990s, but also to illegal collectors. On the roadsides, it's not uncommon to come across vendors selling live birds. A golden eagle fetched around €400 in 2010. A common buzzard(Buteo buteo) can now be found for €65-100. Finally, of the four species of vulture once found in the country, only the Egyptian vulture(Neophron percnopterus) still exists, with less than 10 pairs.
Brown bear. The country is home to around 180 brown bears(Ursus arctos), the lowest number ever recorded. The bears were hunted in order to recover their cubs. The cubs were sold on the Internet, exhibited in restaurants or shown in towns, such as the famous Jeta, known as "Selfie Bear", in Durrës. As a result, 50 bears living in miserable conditions were still being used as attractions across the country in 2015. Released bears have been transferred to sanctuaries in Kosovo or Switzerland. The remaining wild bears live mainly in the Albanian Alps, in the Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park and on the Greek border. But the animal, which weighs between 170 and 190 kg for a male, is now threatened by deforestation. Another officially protected species, but also on the decline in Albania, is the gray wolf(Canis lupus). Only around 200 remain in the same areas as the bear. Attacks on humans by wild animals remain rare, with four non-fatal accidents between 2000 and 2015.
Balkan lynx. Nicknamed the "ghost of the forests" by the Albanians, the Balkan lynx(Lynx lynx balcanicus) is one of Europe's most endangered species. Between 50 and 100 specimens of this big cat remain between Montenegro and Greece. Most have found refuge on the other side of the Albanian border, in Northern Macedonia, in the Mavrovo National Park. Between 10 and 20 of them regularly visit Albania, in the Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park and in the Puka region, between the Munella massif (1,991 m above sea level) and the Lura National Park. While the latest studies are rather optimistic in neighboring countries, in Albania the opposite is true. The animal is seen as a trophy, and its habitat is gradually shrinking. In March 2015, a hunter was caught after killing a baby lynx in the Munella massif. Lura National Park has lost most of its forests. The Shebenik-Jabllanica park is now facing a similar fate.
National Parks
Albania has 14 national parks, created between 1966 and 2010. Due to a lack of resources and political will, most are poorly protected.
Unesco. Three parks benefit from theoretical protection by the UN cultural institution. In the far south, Butrint National Park (96 km²) is a World Heritage Site. It includes both a sumptuous archaeological site and a lagoon. However, the lagoon is being invaded by Saranda's pollutant discharges: the resort has no wastewater treatment plant. Near Elbasan, the Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park (339 km²) is Albania's green lung. Home to 30% of the country's biodiversity, it is a Unesco World Heritage site, classified as a "primary and ancient beech forest of the Carpathians and other regions of Europe". But it is a victim of intense deforestation. Finally, in the south-east, Prespa National Park (277 km²) lies between the Little and Great Prespa Lakes. Part of Unesco's "Man and the Biosphere Programme", it is relatively well preserved and an important stopover for migratory birds, particularly the Dalmatian pelican.
Marine Park. Located just south of Vlora, the Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park is the most recent. Established in 2010, it is the country's only marine park, covering 125 km² between land and sea, on the Karaburun peninsula, the island of Sazan and an area 1 nautical mile (1,852 m) beyond the coast. Nature has been largely spared, as the island and peninsula were home to forbidden military bases during the Communist era. Still guarded by the army, the park is home to the Orikum archaeological site and numerous species of birds (144), mammals (at least 70), reptiles (36) and amphibians (11). Dolphins and the occasional sperm whale can be spotted here. It is also a breeding ground for two of the Mediterranean's most endangered marine species, the loggerhead turtle and the monk seal(Monachus monachus).
Other parks. On the coast are Divjaka-Karavasta National Park (222 km²), with its rich wetlands, and Llogara National Park (10 km²), the magnificent gateway to the "Albanian Riviera". Highly visited, they are both relatively well preserved. The same applies to the two parks in the Albanian Alps: Theth National Park (26 km²) and Valbona National Park (80 km²). Two national parks on the outskirts of Tirana are mainly used for recreational purposes: Mount Dajti (293 km²) and Qafa Shtama (20 km², near Kruja). Finally, the country's four other parks are plagued by illegal deforestation: Mount Tomorr National Park (261 km², near Berat), Lura National Park (202 km², near Peshkopi), Bredhi-Hotova National Park (343 km², near Përmet) and Drenova National Park (10 km², near Korça).
