North-South Division
Albanians are generally more tolerant and welcoming in the southern part. It is more culturally mixed, with Tuscan and Labs (ethnic Albanian sub-groups) as well as Greek and Aromanian populations. These populations share more flexible traditions influenced by Orthodox Christianity and Sufi Islam. In the north, the ethnic group of the Guégue dominates and is distinguished by an attachment to Catholic Christianity and Sunni Islam. The harsher landscapes of the Albanian Alps have favoured the isolation of populations and the preservation of clan traditions. The Guegues are also marked by the memory of the communist repression which further stigmatised the northern part, particularly the Catholics.
Kanun and Besa
Combined with the terrible "blood revival", these two local peculiarities contribute to a wildly exotic image of Albania. Partly thanks to Ismaël Kadaré, whose Kanun inspired the magnificent novel Avril brisé (1980). The Kanun (pronounced "kanoune") is a collection of codes of customary law of medieval origin still followed by certain North Albanian populations, both in Albania and in neighboring countries. The word comes from the Greek kanon ("the rule"), which notably gave rise to the "canon law" of the Catholic Church. Among the various variants of Kanun, the most widespread is that of Leka III Dukagjini (1410-1481), a Catholic Albanian nobleman from Kosovo. This little-known figure, perhaps of French origin - his name is said to be a deformation of "Duke Jean" - is said to have enacted the first Kanun in order to organize his fiefdom in a 15th century marked by the disappearance of the Serbian and Byzantine empires and a still-fragile Ottoman domination. Inspired by the Dušan Code (1349) of the Serbian emperor Stefan Dušan, the Kanun is based on honor, hospitality, rectitude and loyalty. It governs all aspects of life in 12 books and 1,262 articles: from church to family to property. Book 8 develops the idea of besa (pronounced "baissa"), personal honor. Many Albanians, from north to south, are very attached to it, with, in particular, a highly developed sense of hospitality towards foreigners, close to the Greek philoxenia. In this way, besa is credited with the enormous surge of solidarity among Albanian mountain dwellers that enabled so many Jewish refugees to be saved during the Nazi occupation. But besa takes on a stricter meaning in the North, with gjakmarrja, the "taking of blood": faced with a serious breach of besa (murder of a protected foreigner, rape of a woman, etc.), the one who has been scorned is obliged to take revenge, including by death. Revenge can be exacted on any male member of the offender's family over several generations, but the offender's family is untouchable as long as it remains cloistered, as in the famous isolation tower in the Theth Valley. The Kanun was almost wiped out in Albania after being fought out by the Communist authorities. It resurfaced when the new democratic state proved incapable of enforcing order. Since the 1990s, several thousand inhabitants have died as a result of the bloodshed. Today, it is estimated that some 600 families in the six northern provinces, including Tirana, live under the influence of this blood feud.
Gender Inequality
If the Albanian communist regime was one of the harshest in Europe, it also brought progress for women. Formerly reclusive, illiterate (85% in 1946) and subject to patriarchy, women have become emancipated: they represented 50% of university students and a third of the political cadres at the fall of the regime. On the other hand, the objective of a high birth rate has often hindered their professional development, as Albania had the highest fertility rate in Europe in the 1980s, with 2.3 children per woman. Today, the patriarchal system still dominates. While women are more affected by unemployment, men have regained hierarchical positions. However, certain traditions such as forced marriage or the wearing of the veil have almost disappeared in the cities. Since the 1990s, legislation has guaranteed the rights to property, abortion and divorce. In practice, only 19 per cent of real estate was owned by women. While the number of divorces had recently doubled, domestic violence was also on the rise. In the face of poverty and gender inequality, Albanian women are trying to make a place for themselves, first through education (65 per cent of students are female), but also by challenging the traditional family model. They marry later (almost 30 years on average) and have significantly fewer children. The fertility rate has fallen to 1.5 children per woman. One of the lowest in Europe.
Mercedes or BMW?
With an average of 13 deaths per 100,000 inhabitants each year on the roads (compared to 5 in France or 9 in Greece), Albania is one of the least safe countries in Europe in terms of driving. This is due to the fact that it was one of the last countries in the world to discover the individual car. Before the fall of the communist regime, the car fleet consisted of 2,000 units reserved for the nomenklatura. Then, from 1992 onwards, the mini road network was flooded with second-hand vehicles and unlicensed drivers. It was then the German manufacturer Mercedes that dominated the market for twenty years. Its sturdy Type 123 (1975-1986) and Type 124 (1984-1997) can still be seen all over the country. Since the 2010's, things have changed. Road conditions have improved, driving schools have emerged and the wealthiest Albanians are opting for big SUVs or sporty coupes with a predilection for another German brand, BMW. The car fleet is now much more diversified, with recent vehicles from the major European and Japanese brands. However, in the countryside or in the mountains, the old "Merco" are still the queens of the road.
Tourism and poverty
If you pay €80 for a night in a hotel in Tirana or Saranda, this is the average budget for an Albanian family to feed, clothe and go out for a month. The average net monthly salary here is one of the lowest in Europe: €458. But this figure remains theoretical, since the majority of the country's working population is not salaried. In fact, most Albanians live on between €150 and €300 a month. Nearly half the population works in agriculture: a subsistence activity with smallholdings that feed the family and allow them to pocket a little money by selling part of their produce. In Tirana, although incomes are higher, once rent and utilities are paid, most families can only spend a few euros a day. This is what you need to bear in mind when visiting the country. Of course, the diaspora and the emergence of modern tourism are driving up prices in summer. But before you complain to the manager of a small hotel because there's only one bedside lamp in your room, you should know that many Albanian families still live in a common room with a single light bulb on the ceiling.
Taboos and sexuality
Morals may seem quite free in the trendy bars of Blloku and the "Albanian Riviera". In fact, they are highly codified. And there's no shortage of taboos. The first example is the very fashionable practice among young women of hymenoplasty, a surgical operation to reconstitute the hymen in order to appear virginal for marriage. Generally speaking, and for girls in particular, it's frowned upon to talk about one's sex life. Like religion, it remains a private matter. Even so, extramarital relationships and childhood sweethearts do exist. The hourly rates charged for certain hotel rooms bear witness to this. Another taboo: homosexuality. Although decriminalized since 1995, it is still very much frowned upon. According to some studies, Albanians are even the least tolerant on this subject in Europe. All proposals for civil unions and same-sex marriage have been rejected. However, a law passed in 2010 punishes discrimination against members of the LGBTQ+ community. Although a number of NGOs are trying to defend victims of homophobic acts, very few complaints are filed. We therefore advise a certain discretion in public places, even if some gay-friendly bars and nightclubs do exist. On the other hand, it's easy to get a room with a double bed for a gay couple in a hotel. We recommend the utmost caution when it comes to anything resembling prostitution. Widespread, it is mostly carried out by young foreign women exploited by mafia networks. As part of a contract with a local entrepreneur, it is not uncommon for a foreign investor to be offered a "gift in kind". This is an excellent way of violating the Convention for the Protection of Human Rights and, at the same time, ending up in prison or being blackmailed. Finally, the last notable taboo: the sister. On this subject, be careful not to fall out with a brother or father, who are very protective. Even if we are witnessing a slight relaxation of social constraints, it's important to remember that young women's affairs here are a matter for the whole family (some marriages are still arranged).
Firearms and drugs
In general, you will be safer here than in many Western European cities. That being said, Albania is one of the countries in the world with the most firearms in circulation. This goes back to the "pyramid crisis" in 1997, when Albania fell into chaos and army depots were emptied. About 200,000 Kalashnikovs are still held by families. Since 1991, 12,000 people have died by firearms, including three tourists in 2015 and 2016. But as the mafia doesn't like bad publicity, violence has since declined. The only region that may present a risk is the border area with Kosovo, a lawless zone known for its trafficking of all kinds. It is also there, in some high valleys, that most of the cannabis production has been displaced since the dismantling of the Lazarat stronghold in the south in 2014. In Europe, Albania not only continues to be the leading cannabis-producing country, it has also become the main hub for heroin and cocaine. Buying drugs on street corners is fairly easy throughout the country. But be aware that legislation provides for heavy penalties for possession, use and trafficking of drugs.
