Albania

Housed in the former summer residence of dictator Enver Hoxha, this restaurant enjoys an enchanting setting under the trees of Drilon Park. The menu offers a wide choice of fish (eel, trout from Lake Ohrid...) and salads. In summer, a few tables are set up in the garden. But the most coveted seats are on the Drilon River, in the little wooden boxes on stilts, in the shade of weeping willows and among the swans. There are also six pleasant guest rooms. Parking.

This address may not look like much from the road, but it's well known to Albanians traveling south. You come here to take a refreshing break in the backyard, where a huge waterfall(ujëvara in Albanian) flows: a real treat! So, even if the service is slow, the menu a little pretentious and the waterfall inevitably a little noisy (it's not Niagara either), we really enjoyed the place. What's more, the owner knows almost all the rooms in Borsh. Handy if you've nowhere to sleep.

The bay of Porto Palermo has only two restaurants (the second, the Panorama, is located south of the bay). This very rustic but superbly located one offers fish and shellfish that come directly from the fishing port or the fish farm, both located opposite: oysters (gocë deti, 2,400 lek/kg), red mullet (barbuni, 3,600 lek/kg) and other fish (from 700 lek/piece). It also serves salads, pasta and risottos and solid breakfasts. Best to book in the middle of summer.

This restaurant opened in 2002 offers the most beautiful view of the Gulf of Saranda, the lagoon of Butrint and the island of Corfu with magnificent sunsets. Side kitchen is something else, because it's a little too expensive. And we don't even talk about the quality of the dishes, the service as slow as it is approximate or the completely fanciful opening times. In short, you may not eat here, but you will take full advantage of the mirettes!

You have to take theelevator to enjoy the beautiful views from this chic, fine-dining restaurant on the fourth floor of the ABA Business Center, an 83-meter-high tower built in 2009. The menu combines quality meats and seafood at more truly Balkan prices: seafood platters from 9,000 to 13,500 leks, Kobe beef at 9,000 leks, as well as caviar and more. All in all, a very reasonable price of around 2,000 leks per person without drinks. Reservations recommended.

This Italian fish restaurant is run by an Albanian. But visitors from across the Adriatic are fans: here, in this basement on the boulevard bordering the Lana, they find the same flavors as at home, but at a much better price. Chef Aldo Trebicka carefully prepares extra-fresh fish and seafood, varied and colorful small assortments, pastas and risottos, a luxurious whole lobster or very simple, perfect little anchovies.

The "chapeaux" restaurant is one of the many panoramic establishments that have opened in recent years along the road climbing to Mount Dajti. The room is huge (around 400 covers) and the dishes are a little bland (small starters to pick at, grilled meats), but it's obviously for the views over Tirana that the local youth flock here. When the weather's fine, the large bay windows open up and you're in for a treat. As the wine in carafe is quite decent, you can have a good time here.

A great address for meat lovers, near the Grand Parc dike. Beautiful, well-cooked cuts, simmered dishes, plenty of truffle shavings, good Albanian and Italian red wines. But the room is very small, and salads and seasonal vegetables quickly disappear from the menu. If you're not 100% carnivorous, you'd better make a reservation and don't come too late. And don't forget, you can only pay in cash here. But Tirana's small French-speaking community loves this place with its bistro atmosphere.

The "canard fumé" restaurant is famous for its... smoked duck. The birds come from the estate's own farm, which also produces fruit, vegetables, wine and more. The presentation is meticulous, the dining room pleasant, but the service not always attentive. Breasts and legs are baked or cooked in a plum sauce, served with local pasta(petka) or rice. There's even foie gras! The menu also includes Albanian classics, pork on the spit, lamb or beef cuts and Ohrid trout(koran).

Housed in a large stone and wood house, the "Mystic Rose" restaurant (symbolizing the mystery of the Incarnation for Catholics) enjoys a superb location on the banks of the Vain lagoon, within the Kunë-Vain-Tale nature reserve. It serves small fried eels and wild duck from the lagoon, as well as shrimps, fish, bureks, fresh salads and homemade cornbread. Please note that prices vary according to whether you pay cash or by credit card.

Located on the Patok dike, this fine fish restaurant offers a magnificent panorama of the lagoon, its houses on stilts and its small fishing boats. You'll appreciate the wide variety of fresh fish caught in the Adriatic or in the lagoon: koce (sea bream), barbun (red mullet), levrek (sea bass), lojb (liche, cousin of horse mackerel), merluc (hake), ngjale (eel), qefull (mullet), romb (brill), burdullak (gobie-lote). We regret, however, that kitchen wastewater is discharged directly into the lagoon.

The "Ali le cheval restaurant" is not well signposted, but it's famous all over the country. And with good reason: the owner, Ali, brings your orders to you on horseback, making his mount lie down to pour onto the table a whole host of grilled fish, shrimps, grilled meats, salads, homemade honey and other big, soggy reds. It's pretty good and fresh, and above all copious (fish and shrimp are unlimited). In winter, meals are served in a cosy dining room with a fireplace. And, all year round, you can go and stroke the horses.

Not easy to find (GPS: 41.368907, 19.742311), this farm-restaurant is well worth a visit. It was founded in 1996 by Rexhep Uka, an agronomy researcher and former Minister of Agriculture. Tables covered with checkered tablecloths line the vineyards and orchards. Superb cuts of meat grilled on the spot, antipasti and seasonal organic vegetables, estate wines, efficient waiters and a warm atmosphere. Perfect before catching your plane at the nearby airport. Reservations are recommended.

Durrës is full of good fish restaurants. This one is popular and inexpensive. You'll still enjoy a fine view of the shoreline and a no-fuss terrace in front of the first large beach to the south-east of the port. You can choose your meal from the stalls: sea bass, red mullet, sole, squid, clams, crabs or prawns... Raw or cooked, they're very good. Also some Italian specialties: bruschetta, spaghetti alle vongole or risotto al mare. With a large plate of Butrint mussels, you'll get away with an unbeatable price.

Situated at an altitude of 1,100 m, on the cliff overlooking Kruja, near the Sari-Saltik tekké, the bar-restaurant "Au bord de la montagne" offers breathtaking views over the entire Ishëm valley, the Tirana plain and the Preza hills. Simple, good home-cooked dishes: grills, salads, pizzas, etc. The place is also worth a detour for a simple coffee, as the scenery is so superb. Otherwise, down below, there are several restaurants within the Kruja fortress, including Bardhi, which boasts a beautiful panoramic terrace.

This farmhouse-restaurant, affiliated with the slow food movement, is pure bliss. Lost on the side of a small road beneath Petrela Castle (GPS: 41.255886, 19.846436), the establishment offers mezzés, salads and vegetables from the garden, classic Albanian and Greek dishes, including good meatballs with tomato, and even French bistro dishes such as terrine, not to mention a fine selection of wines from Berat, Koplik, Përmet... And in fine weather, you can enjoy all this on the terrace in the middle of nature.

Nestled at the bottom of a narrow street and a staircase, the restaurant "la mouette" is not easy to find. However, it is clearly worth the detour. You can find very good fresh fish (a bit expensive compared to local standards), an interesting 10-course menu, Italian cuisine as on the other side of the Straits of Otranto (linguini with prawns and dried ink, squid with tomato sauce cooked in the oven, successful panna cotta, etc.), neat presentation. Professional service, but sometimes a long wait.

A good address (which also makes hotel - see further «Dajti National Park») on Mount Dajti, to taste the fondant fondant but also to produce more wild meats (local game). But we also come and especially for the magnificent panorama on the capital, there, at the bottom…