Things to see and do Central Greece

The ancient section of this museum is not most consistent, but the maritime and naval part is much more complete. There are numerous models of boats, maps, navigational instruments…

It is one of the best preserved theatres in Greece. Built in the 4th century BC in limestone from Parnassus, it was restored in the 2nd century BC and decorated a century later with a bas-relief depicting the works of Heracles.

Contemporary to the temple of Apollo, it was still undergoing some work in the 2nd century AD by the Romans to accommodate up to 5,000 spectators. Not everything is there and some of the preserved fragments are on display in the museum. We must imagine today that dramatic and lyrical competitions were held in the theatre during the great festivals of the sanctuary. The orchestra, a large circular paved track where the choir used to perform, was surrounded by a still visible aqueduct used for the drainage of rainwater. Just behind were the stage and, further back, the stage buildings. These were deliberately low to allow spectators to enjoy the view of the valley.

Going along the theatre, and following the path marked out, one reaches a place from where one can see: below on the right, the so-called Corcyrean base, in front of which a foundation of grey limestone and tuff carried the tall column of three young women dancing; high up on the left, the hall of Knidé, which it is not necessary to go and see up close. It was probably a large room richly decorated with paintings, the roof of which was supported by two rows of four wooden pillars.

On the way back to the theater, a rather difficult climb leads to the stadium. Built in the ^5th century B.C., it was rather crude since the embankment was used as bleachers. These limestone ones, still visible, were built by Herod Atticus.

The 7,000-seater stadium, 177.55 m long and 25.50 m wide, was the venue for the Pythic Games, which were held every eight years from 582 BC onwards, and then every four years thereafter. They commemorated Apollo's victory over the serpent Python and included musical, sports and equestrian competitions. Athletes and judges entered the stadium by passing under a triumphal arch supported by four pillars of which pieces remain. On the start and finish lines, you can still see notches that served as foot restraints for the athletes who were running on the track. Finally, a last visible testimony of these Games is the presence of a high-backed bench, 7 m long, in the middle of the bleachers on the right side. This was where the judges who decided between the competitors sat.

Thermopylae is the site of a feat engraved in the history of Greece. It all began when Xerxes, king of the Persian Empire, decided to invade Greece. He trained his troops, 1,800,000 men according to Herodotus but rather 100,000 in reality, to the Tembi Valley, which at the time was the true entrance to Greece. To face the invader, the Greeks were only 7,300, but they had an additional asset: the legendary bravery of their leader Leonidas. Xerxes had just developed an evil plan to take the Greeks on both sides. Having been aware of this project and knowing that he could not counter it, Leonidas dismissed the majority of his army and kept only a handful of 1,000 men. Leonidas and his troop fought with all their strength, deploying an unprecedented rage and vigour, but the Greek leader fell in the middle of the assault. This sacrifice of Leonidas and his family remains emblematic of the fight against the Persian invader.

However, this poorly developed site allows us to see some interesting buildings. To the left of the main highway when coming from Lamia, there is a bust without wings and the monument to Leonidas. On the way back to Lamia, turn left at the Shell petrol station to reach the Thermopylae natural springs. They have little to do with the military history of the site, but according to legend, these waters, reaching 41°C, have a great healing power: they would even have saved Hercules in the past.