Things to see and do Antananarivo & Area

Former sportsmen, Dieudonné and Violette created in 1996 a workshop of wrought iron work. This workshop has become a small village and its works, notably the large baobabs, mirrors and geckos, can be found in all the hotels of the country. Beyond the artistic success, the workshop is a social success: the couple has chosen to integrate the poorest people through work. They offer a new life to these families with the creation of a school and cultures on the spot.

This museum was born in the heights of the city in 2018, within a beautiful traditional house. Inside you will discover films made from digitized old photos (1860/1960), thematic exhibitions of old photos and a space for the discovery of contemporary photographers. Outside, the calm and soothing garden offers a sumptuous view of the city. Also to be discovered: the Museum's Café, an opportunity for a tasty break, in an intimate setting.

Of the fourteen doors of entry in reality 7 old and 7 new erected by Andrianampoinimerina, only one remains, pink ochre on a side, vermilion of the other, earth of Sienna in the center. 16 million egg whites were necessary to build the external wall: they were used like lime!

The royal hut of Andrianampoinimerina (Mahandrihono) resembles that of his residence in Antananarivo. One will notice the steps on the three rosewood pillars: the king used to hide at the top when visitors entered his house; he let his wife talk to them, in order to better judge them, then threw a stone if he agreed to receive them himself. Then the royal wife would let the guests out and the king could quietly go back downstairs! Another important precision: the gracious sovereign was only 1,45 m tall!

The house of Ranavalona III is charming with its lacquered balusters and its balconies. Ask the guide to open the drawers of the furniture of the queen's room and to translate the inscriptions. He will tell you: "Ranavalona, give me a job! Ranavalona, give me a beautiful husband! Ranavalona, give me a long life! Ranavalona, give me fortune! Ranavalona, give me a bride! Ranavalona, give me a child..." These wishes are addressed to the spirit of the queen who can help the living.

Next to the queen's room, a belvedere, surrounded by bay windows, overlooks the panorama. This is the Council of Ministers room. The government met there around Ranavalona.

The life of the city was wisely organized. All the social groups were represented there. Each clan, which had a limited and defined number of huts, was in charge of a district and had to maintain it; similarly, each clan had rice fields and had to produce a minimum quantity of rice. All the inhabitants participated in the cleaning of the city. The forest was preserved because it was a source of important wealth (especially for construction): it was forbidden to cut wood, and even to collect it. Alcohol was not allowed, hemp was forbidden, as well as fady products.

Walk around the rova enclosure, walk around the fortifications, find the stone of sacrifices(vatomasina), consecrated by king Andriantsimitoviaminandriandehibe (phew!).

Ambohimanga is a place of serenity. Numerous other archaeological vestiges are scattered on the hill: external royal tombs(Mahazaza), royal fountain, hill of Mangabe (where rests the tomb of the diviner/astrologer)...

The history here was eventful, as evidenced by the episode of the exhumation of the royal tombs by Gallieni, in March 1897. The general had decided to remove the symbols of Merina sovereignty, and thus to transfer the royal remains from Ambohimanga to Antananarivo, barely a month after having exiled Queen Ranavalona III. An inconceivable sacrilege. The bodies were transferred to the Palace of the Kings, where they joined that of Radama ^I, who was already resting there. Before a century later, on December 6, 1995, a new desecration (probably just as criminal) further sealed the strange fate of these sovereign relics.

There are a few fady in Ambohimanga: snails, pigs, onions, corn, squash... but also, as the tradition says... Europeans! Don't worry, you will be well received anyway.

On a domain of 5 ha, at the edge of the Katsaoka river, one can observe 7 species of lemurs, of which the sifaka coquereli (or "dancing lemur"). An area of the park has been set up to welcome visitors. The infrastructures, works of the stone mason Philippe Manet, are integrated into the environment. Restaurant service, store offering handicrafts. A site appreciated by travelers who do not have time to go hiking in national parks and can here easily observe lemurs and better understand these endemic primates.

Madagascar National Parks is an association of Malagasy law mandated by the State since 1991 to manage the Parks and Reserves of the Big Island. 43 Protected Areas composed of National Parks, Special Reserves and Integral Natural Reserves are concerned. Its mission is to establish, conserve and sustainably manage these areas. The website is full of practical and general information on the different parks and reserves of the country. Guide fees, tours, maps, etc.

The website of the National Tourist Office of Madagascar is a good source of information to prepare your stay. You will find here a summary and an overview of what the Big Island has to offer for a trip. The main regions, the essential steps, information on the rich Malagasy fauna and flora, many ideas for excursions and activities... This website is full of information and will allow you a first trip before departure!

The climb up to the Rova from the town center is a pleasant stroll. You first pass the Andohalo Palace, where sovereigns were once crowned (now a public garden and sports ground), then the house of Jean Laborde (whose original wooden structure collapsed in the early 1980s).

Towards the end of Rue Ravelojaona, a large building overlooks the town: the Prime Minister's Palace. This was the residence of the powerful "Andafiavaratra" family of commoners. It was from here that Rainilaiarivony (son of Rainiharo), husband of three successive queens, ruled until Antananarivo was occupied by the French army. In 1960, the building became the headquarters of the Presidency of the Republic, but was destroyed by fire in 1976. Today, it's a small historical museum, where you can discover objects saved from the Rova fire in 1995.

Let's digress for a moment: on the night of November 6, 1995, a fire of unknown origin destroyed a group of buildings in the Cité Royale, the Rova d'Antananarivo. This destruction was experienced by the population as a moral and psychological trauma. This act was an attack on the symbols of history and the memory of the ancestors - whose tombs were burned - who tried to unite the country. It is said that many treasures were saved from the disaster... some even claim that they had been taken out beforehand! But to say that this crime was politically motivated... In any case, German documentalist Erika Rothgangel possesses the complete photographs of the decimated collection of paintings, and these were then digitized, in order to more or less reconstitute the originals.

From the pediment of the Prime Minister's Palace, the panorama of the city is already remarkable. Hibiscus, bougainvillea, jacarandas: here, the city becomes a city of flowers. Porticoes, balusters, colonnades, varangues... Although the shapes of the houses vary, red is the dominant color.
After the Prime Minister's palace, you pass an old post office in ochre-red, then climb the last few metres to the Rova. After a detour to the Rova, you may want to consider the English-style Ambohipotsy temple, built in the 1860s. Shortly afterwards, the belvedere offers a superb view over the entire Betsimitaratra plain, where Tana lies.

The Queen's palace is in fact a real complex, comprising a necropolis, 5 monumental palaces and 9 tombs. First erected by Andrianjaka in 1610, it housed 22 wooden buildings during the reign of Andrianampoinimerina. Later, successive monarchs strove to embellish it. The only entrance door (surmounted by a bronze eagle sent by Napoleon III to Ranavolana ^I) was designed by James Cameron in 1865.

Palais de la Reine or Manjakamiadana ("where it is pleasant to reign"), Tana's most famous monument. It was built in 1867 by Ranavalona II on top of the original wooden palace, designed by Jean Laborde in 1839 (structure supported by a 39 m-long central rosewood pillar, which 10,000 slaves would have transported from the east coast). It was painted white, with the balustrades in red and black. Around 1870, James Cameron added 4 Italian-style corner towers.

Tranovola ("silver house"). Built entirely of wood by Louis Gro in 1820 on several floors with verandas, it was the residence of Radama ^I. Jean Laborde restored it in 1845.

Manampisoa ("extra beauty"). Built for Rasoherina by English architect William Pool in 1867. Painted red and black, this series of corridors, balustrades, balconies and terraces dominates the Imerina. In the ^20th century, it was transformed into a museum for the royal family.

Besakana ("which preserves well"). Built in 1800 for Andrianampoinimerina, it was used to crown monarchs and display their mortal remains.

Mahitsielafanjaka ("he who has integrity reigns long"). Andrianampoinimerina's royal hut (with its rosewood walls and thatched roof), reminiscent of his Ambohimanga residence, was a rational, Spartan universe, in the image of this king who, concerned with administration, management and unification, had nothing but contempt for luxury and pomp. The hut contained the king's personal belongings, his bed and the beds of his twelve wives. This building has now been rebuilt.

Tranofitomiandalana ("Seven Aligned Houses"). Seven of the ten kings who ruled Tana before Andrianampoinimerina are buried here. The other three were dethroned, struck down by leprosy and overthrown.

Queen's Tomb. Wooden building erected by James Cameron in 1868 for the eternal resting place of Rasoherina.

Tomb of the Kings. Stone edifice built by Louis Gros for Radama ^I's eternal resting place. Gallieni transferred the ashes of Andrianampoinimerina and Radama II here in 1897.

At the time of our visit, in December 2022, the Rova was under construction, with no scheduled reopening date. We don't know whether the above description will be 100% accurate once the work is completed. But even if the Rova hasn't reopened, the walk around the site is well worth the detour. We recommend a visit with one of the local guides you'll find in front of the palace. Don't hesitate to ask for Sitraka - we've tried and tested his services!

It is a circular road that bypasses the capital and follows the Ikopa River. It is an opportunity to get away from the noise and urban pollution. The rice fields which encircle the capital penetrate in the popular districts and the suburbs. On the banks of the Ikopa, long boats glide on the water with their load of wood or bricks. On the banks, the peasants have built their numerous workshops to manufacture, with the earth which borders the Ikopa and the rice fields, the red bricks used for the construction of the houses of the Highlands.

Croc Farm is a pleasant excursion near the capital. The park is shaded, pleasantly flowered (Malagasy periwinkle, hibiscus, coconut trees...). One will discover chameleons, batrachians, boas, radiated tortoises and... crocodiles of the Nile of course (of which the park makes the breeding for the marquetry). Lunch time (Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays around 1pm) is an opportunity to contemplate the formidable flexibility and power of these animals. It is possible to have lunch or a drink in the restaurant, in a pleasant setting.

Starting from the railway station of Soarano, we go up the Avenue de l'Indépendance towards the Avenue du 26 Juin. The Zoma (large market) no longer exists, it was closed due to health and safety problems, but there are still kiosks where it is possible to do some shopping.

This main axis, traced in 1912 to join the market to the station of Soarano, is the obligatory place of passage of the traveler. On weekends in the evening, many Malagasy come to park there, showing off their bottles (like so much booty) on their hoods, evoking a popular open-air bar.

Under the arcades, craftsmen and sellers offer souvenirs of all kinds: traditional games, jewelry, solitaires, stones, statuettes, copies of funeral sculptures, embroidery and spices, including vanilla.

Along the sidewalks, the 4L, 404, Renault 14, 2 CV blue, yellow, green, red, and often of a very advanced age, testify to the prodigious mechanical ability of Malagasy drivers, who are among the most qualified on the planet, due to unemployment. In some vehicles, the cell phone unlockers operate with astonishing dexterity.

Going up the Avenue du 26 Juin, the big post office (take a look at the colonial map of the world painted on the wall, it dates from the 1930s; small bulbs indicated the progress of the mail by sea or by plane), one will discover, on the right, a series of stairs going up to the Independence Square. To the right of the stairs, the Lido building is worth the detour: on the first floor, a large choice of postcards at unbeatable prices. Upstairs, the snack bar of the Cercle germano-malagasy (formerly Goethe Institute) is an ideal place to have a drink with some Malagasy artists. Its terrace on the top floor (access for a fee), with a view over the old Zoma (this large bazaar now commonly called the Pavilions) and the whole neighborhood of Analakely, is the best place for your overall photographs.

Along the stairs, sunglasses and stamps vendors are crowded. If you wish to have a stamp with your address and an original logo, it will be done in thirty minutes, by hand, for a derisory price.

At the top of the stairs, you arrive at the Independence Square. There, on stalls spread out in the sun the marvels of a craft born of recuperation: Coca cans transformed into Air Madagascar planes, bush cabs, Harley Davidson and multicolored rickshaws...

The Anosy district can be identified by its lake surrounded by jacarandas and by the imposing Carlton hotel. It can be reached through an unbreathable tunnel located at the top of the avenue of June 26. The tour of the lake is a pleasant walk, but the banks are littered with trash. In the center of the lake, the islet was used as an arsenal by Radama ^I. The central monument is dedicated to the combatants of the First World War. Near the lake stands a set of ministries. Nearby, one can enjoy the daily market of plants and flowers. This area is not the safest in the evening.

Founded in 1925, covering 27 hectares, the Botanical and Zoological Park of Tsimbazaza offers a taste of Madagascar. Malagasy families flock there on Sundays. This visit is far from essential if you plan to visit several national parks, but if not, it can be a pleasant moment.

The park includes first of all a botanical garden. The immense flora of Madagascar unfolds there in summary: tree ferns, palms, bamboo orchids, aloes, euphorbias, pachypodium ..

You can also visit the zoo, which hosts a wide variety of lemur families that you will meet in their different natural environments. You can also discover two fossas (predators), warthogs, reptiles (in a vivarium) and about a hundred species of colorful birds including the ankoay (a kind of eagle). Of course, it is a zoo, so the animals are in cages... Some guides know the caretakers and will be able to invite you behind the scenes... The visit then reveals all its interest.

The last section is a museum of archaeology and paleontology. Unique are the collections of skeletons from the circle of extinct animals such as the "elephant bird" Aepyornis, the "lalomena" (a strange creature reminiscent of a hippopotamus) or the giant lemurs. We will also discover, in a room dedicated to ethnology, musical instruments, basketry, silk fabrics, ritual objects..

An amazing district where old English-style cottages, catholic temples, small gardens and narrow cobbled streets are intertwined. You will discover the Ambohijatovo Aravatra college, where many romantic poets were trained, the Faravohitra temple built in 1870, the Jules Ferry high school (large brick building)... To reach Faravohitra, take the district from Analakely: it goes up but you will appreciate the colorful stalls: one of the most picturesque sites of the center of Tana.

The Chinese are an influential community in local commerce. They have settled in all the major cities and ports of the east coast for two centuries. In Tana, the main Chinese district starts behind the town hall of the^1st district, in Ambodifilaho, up to Behoririka (real local Chinatown). Here, photo stores, restaurants, grocery stores are held by the Chinese community. It is also a popular place for pickpockets... be careful!

The center of the Antaninarenina district is constituted by the presidential palace (which was the former residence of the highest colonial authorities with an interesting architecture) and the set of ministries that surround it. We can spend a moment towards the tomb of the Prime Ministers (located in front of the Mojo Bar), not at all maintained, which reveals a large stone structure of 25 meters long: Jean Laborde had erected it in 1852 for the Prime Minister Rainiharo. After that, one can return to the Independence Square, where the bust of the first President Tsiranana is enthroned.

Going up Ratsimilaho Street on the left, from the Independence Square, beyond the post office, one will stroll among a set of useful and attractive stores: a bookstore, photo laboratories as well as a large choice of jewelry stores offering jewels unique to Madagascar: gold and silver bracelets, reproductions of queens' necklaces, maps of Madagasikara in pendants..

The walkers will continue their way during about twenty minutes by the streets Ranavalona III (old street of the tailors, it is there that the trade of the dressmakers and the tailors with the European mode beat its fullness at the beginning of the XXe century), Ratefinanahary, Venance Manifatra. This route leads to the Rova, the royal enclosure. It is a walking tour to be done by taking your time, by being attentive to the stalls as well as to the architecture of the houses, to the shadows and lights, to the smiles and glances.

This popular district of Tana is flooded every rainy season because the canals which cross it are blocked. Nevertheless, the route is worth to be done. Going along the railway station on the left, you arrive at the flea market. Further on, we reach the market of Isotry. Here, the tailors make you a tailor-made pants in the street, on their old Singer. Still further, on the bridge of Equality, gather every Friday the Mpihira Gasy, these artists of the peasant opera.

The elders also know it as "Alarobia Bird Island". It was the residence of Rainiliarivony, Prime Minister of Queen Ranavalona at the end of the 19th century. This private family park is not very large (27 ha, including 5 ha of protected wetland), but we discover about sixty species of birds, around a small freshwater lake. It is the breeding ground for several heron species and a refuge for several duck species. Especially for amateurs and/or to get out of traffic jams during a bucolic ride.

Official guide since 2007, Maxime accompanies French and English speaking travelers for visits in Tana, in the Highlands region or in all of Mada. He knows the whole territory (hat!) and will guide you according to your desires, on foot, by bike or by car, for your nature and culture outings, for a single day or a whole trip. He is a very competent and respectful person whose services we warmly recommend!

This gallery belongs to Pierrot Men, probably the most famous photographer of the Island. We discover here about fifty photographs. Pierrot Men is on the spot from time to time, when he is not on the road or in his main stronghold in Fianaranstsoa where you can also meet him. A visit to this gallery allows you to discover Mada through the poetic eye of the photographer, far from the tourist clichés or the miserable photos. We recommend it!

The Indo-Pakistani communities (called Karana) are influential in trade throughout the Indian Ocean and Islam has been present in Madagascar since the 8th century. The majority of the Karana are Muslim. The main Indo-Pakistani and Comorian neighborhood is Tsaralalana. Grocery stores, hardware stores, bazaars, almost all the stores are run by Karana. Here many men wear beards; the women wrap themselves in loose clothing that evokes Lahore. Verses from the Koran and pictures of Mecca adorn the stores.