Streets squares and districts to visit Istanbul & Marmara Region

Not very popular with tourists because it is far from the city centre and metro or tramway lines, this is one of the favourite places of Istanbul's golden youth in Europe. Fashion boutiques, Western brands, pastries, cafés and restaurants abound around the small square. Not much of an authentic or exotic experience. In the evening, the district quickly finds itself bottled up by "beautiful people" who come to dinner or a drink at one of the many trendy (and very expensive) addresses, before joining the latest trendy nightclub.

The very heart of Beyoğlu, Avenue de l'Indépendance (formerly Grand Rue de Péra) is one of the most famous streets in the city, known for its nostalgic tramway and above all its frenetic animation, both in terms of shops and nightlife. Thousands of shops, cafés, bars and restaurants follow one another on the avenue and adjacent streets. Those who know Barcelona and its Ramblas will not be out of place. The buildings date for the most part from the 19th century, we feel very far from Istanbul mosques, and very close to the great European capitals.

A small recess near Örtaköy, the "village of the Albanians" is a string of elegant 18th and 19th century Yalı (villa) where it is possible to take a pleasant break for lunch or dinner. It is a pleasant neighbourhood, favoured by the Turkish elite. On Sunday mornings, the Stamboulians come here to have their breakfast. Fish restaurants, small designer shops and trendy cafes coexist here. Don't forget to see the wooden façade of the Taksiarhis Orthodox Church, built in 1899.

Its name comes from the actual racecourse that stood on this very spot in Sultanahmet Square. It was a venue for horse and chariot races and could accommodate up to 100,000 spectators. A race consisted of four quadrigas and seven laps of the track, or about 2,500 m. Each driver wore the colour of the Constantinople faction that funded him. The whites and blues represented the aristocrats and landowners, while the reds and greens represented the artists and merchants. The tension between the two factions led to several revolts. Two columns and an obelisk, which were part of the monuments placed in the central axis of the track and around which the races were held, are still intact. The site was named At Meydanı ("Horse Square") by the Ottomans, as the palace pages regularly played djirit, the ancestor of polo, here.

From north to south: the obelisk of Theodosius. It comes from the Karnak temple built by Thutmose III (1483-1450 BC). The hieroglyphs engraved on the four faces of this 26-meter-high porphyry monolith are dedicated to the god Horus and celebrate the victories won by the pharaoh. Transferred to Constantinople by Theodosius I, it was installed in the middle of the hippodrome in 390. The column stands on a 6 m high marble pedestal, sculpted with bas-reliefs representing Theodosius and his family sitting at the imperial tribune of the hippodrome and presenting crowns to the winners of the races. The Serpentine Column (Yilanlı Sütün). This is a trophy that the 31 Greek cities brought back from the temple of Apollo Pythian (Delphi), in 479 BC. This twist, formed by the winding of three snakes, supported a large tripod and a golden vase. Constantine the Great brought it back from Delphi to install it in the Hippodrome square. The snakes, demonic symbols par excellence, did not please either the Byzantines or the Muslims afterwards, and were mutilated several times. All the heads have disappeared over time. The walled obelisk. This 32m high obelisk was erected in the 4th century on the spina of the Hippodrome, probably during the reign of Constantine I the Great (306-337). Made of roughly hewn stone blocks, it remained like this until Constantine VII (912-959) had it covered with gilded bronze plates. These plates were removed during the Fourth Crusade (1204) to make coins.

Passing through Boyacıköy, we arrive in Emirgan. A darling of film, song and poetry, the district evokes two pleasures dear to Turks: tea and its park. The coast is very pleasant. The Sabancı family's Atlı Köşk has been turned into a museum. The small, shady district of Çınaraltı is perfect for a cup of tea. Continuing straight on, you come to Emirgan Park (Emirgan Korusu). Here you can admire the many yalı (villas) once occupied by the strongmen of the Ottoman Empire. Today, these residences belong to the state.

The layout of the square and the pedestal of the monument are the work of the architect Monceri. The statues are by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. On the side of the monument are scenes relating to the national liberation struggle led by Atatürk (1919-1921) while allegories of republican Turkey are on the opposite side. Statues representing Turkish soldiers holding banners are installed. The monument was inaugurated on August 8, 1928.

The small town of Kuzguncuk, easily accessible by dolmuş, busor steamer from Üsküdar, has kept its traditional charm with its wooden houses and gardens. Its three churches, its mosque and its synagogue, places of worship that testify to the diversity of the populations that have occupied this charming place, are all located on Icadiye Avenue. The cafés around the wharf are perfect for a short tea break or a hearty breakfast. Adjacent to the village, the grove of Fethipasa makes it possible to prolong the bucolic stroll.

Inaugurated by Theodosius I in 393, it was the main square of the city, then called the Tauri forum. A time travel is guaranteed. Surrounded by several mosques, it is located in front of the University of Istanbul, whose monumental gate you can admire. Always lively, on this square meet shopkeepers, students, religious... and tourists! It is a square that represents the history, culture and modernity of Istanbul.

Nestled at the end of a harbour, in the continuity of Beylerbeyi, it is a picturesque setting: small shops, fruit and fish stalls, bakery, wooden houses... You can admire the facade of Sadullah's yalı (villa) Paşa (statesman and poet under the Ottoman Empire). Boats, returning fishermen and the remains of pontoons offer an ideal setting to enjoy the Bosphorus. The terrace of Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi under the large plane tree is perfect for a börek with a drink, tea or ayran. The area is famous for its almonds.

Very busy, this street is particularly pleasant in the morning, from 8:30am to 9am. Lovers of traditional games, such as okey (rummy game) or tavla (backgammon) will be thrilled: there are shops here where the game boards are real works of art. We walk to the rhythm of the clapping of dice. At the end of the street on the left, you reach the han Caferiye and its pleasant patio with fountain, ideal for blowing and sipping a good Turkish tea.

If Sarıyer is appreciated, purists prefer Rumeli Kavağı, charming, despite the disorder around the square. The Yenimahalle Caddesi, which leaves Sarıyer to the north, becomes the Karakütük Caddesi, then the Liman Caddesi, where is, on the side, opposite a great restaurant, the Telli Baba Türbesi (tomb of Baba Telli), a tomb where a saint, who is actually a saint, lies! In Islam, there are more saints than saints. Near the eponymous bus stop, it is the favourite address of young ladies waiting to convolve to the well-behaved world of marriage. Indeed, the young Turks have solved the problem of the perfect man! So, if you want an elegant, brilliant, loyal, respectful, devoted, kind, attentive husband... all you need to do is pray a little prayer and put a strand of hair or a piece of cloth on it. If you spend Friday (Holy Day) or weekend there, you will see people there! The origin of this popular belief is very touching: an employee of the small port notices a boat and its two young passengers, a boy and a girl, on a stormy day; the boat capsizes. Without hesitation, she dived and managed to save the girl from the raging waves. The boy, on the other hand, disappears. As the years go by, the miraculous woman becomes a woman ready to marry. She returned to the scene of the disaster to express her gratitude to her benefactor, but she is dead. She finds her tomb to meditate and lay a piece of her wedding dress on it...

The "yellow square" district, if we translate it, is known for its fishermen, its market and its fish restaurants. Sarı (yellow) is an allusion to the natural water sources and gold and copper ores once extracted here. You can admire superb wooden houses. Along the harbour, fish restaurants offer fresh produce. The district is also known for its börek (puff pastry) with meat or cheese. From Sariyer, there are dolmuş to reach Kilyos, a sandy beach on the Black Sea, in 20 minutes.

A favourite neighbourhood for artists and bohemians, it has long been known for its cosmopolitan character. Foreigners working in Istanbul appreciate it, especially the French community. The chic trend coexists with the picturesque, which inevitably attracts young people from all walks of life. With a rebellious but irreverent soul, the district is open to all. The street on the right opposite the mosque, Akarsu Caddesi, is the beating heart of Cihangir.

To get to this district, it is possible to take the Yeni Çarsı Caddesi which runs alongside the Galatasaray high school. Then, by the second street on the left, you reach rue Française and Çukurcuma, a district that is mainly known for its antique dealers. In the first Hayriye Street, next to the Koyu Kahve, is the Apelyan building, which you will recognize by its yellow facade and Italian-style architecture. Dating from the 19th century and having belonged to the Apelyan family.

The easiest way to get there is to take a boat from Eminönü. The district is known for its fish restaurants and its military, a strategic point. The village, its narrow streets with wooden houses, its few shops are dominated by the hill Yuşa Tepesi. It is easy to get there in 30 minutes, for its fortress (Yoros Kalesi) and the wonderful view of the Bosporus and the Black Sea. Two fishing villages further away: Anadolu Feneri with its lighthouse (fener) and Poyrazköy with its small paying beach.

Along the road that runs along the sparsely populated coastal strip, you will come across the Austrian consulate, the summer palace of the German consulate, the Art Nouveau presidential residence and a villa belonging to the former Italian ambassador. This private mansion has become the property of the State. Tarabya has a beautiful small cove, unfortunately disfigured by an imposing hotel. In this upscale district of the capital, pleasure boats await their wealthy owners, facing fish restaurants, trendy bars and social clubs.

It is more of a han (commercial patio) than a passage. Built in the early 19th century in neoclassical architecture, it was used by the Russian consulate until 1924 and was also used as a prison. Recently restored with its salmon-coloured facade, this building unfortunately no longer has much to do with what it used to be. It still has an inner courtyard and now houses some shops and the illusion museum.