Things to see and do Menabe

In Bemaraha National Park, you can discover the superb Tsingy on a dozen single or combined tours. Here is a selection of the best options, in our opinion.

Short tours. These are fairly easy circuits, grouped around the village of Bekopaka. To familiarize yourself with the difficulties of walking in the Tsingy, it's advisable to do at least one of the smaller circuits before venturing onto the larger one. The two routes to the south of the park give walkers a chance to prove themselves before embarking on the larger circuit, and to gradually adapt to the Tsingy environment. These relatively easy walks (the main circuit, which is the most touristic, is nevertheless fitted out, and at some point you have to climb stairs) reveal limestone slabs, canyons and a series of 10-20 m-high diaclases. The only sounds that disturb the silence here are the calls of birds and lemurs. Attractive caves and corridors mark the karstic nature of the massif. These sites bear witness to ancient human presence. From the top of the diaclases, you can experience the sensation of emptiness. From the lookouts, the view of the Tsingy and the diversity of its vegetation is magnificent.

The Manambolo gorges circuit. This circuit takes you through steep gorges 50 to 80 metres high, covered with different types of vegetation (wet to very dry). In the gorges, the river is between 40 and 100 m wide, and can be reached by pirogue or canoe (optional and at an additional cost). This is an opportunity to visit caves with interesting limestone formations, populated by numerous small bats. The route includes a visit to the Vazimba tombs, then continues up to the cliffs along the right bank of the Manambolo. An ancient drawing of a zebu stands out in a rock shelter. The gorge and pirogue option takes around 1h30. This tour is best done in the morning, to avoid the sometimes strong afternoon wind.

Andadoany and Ankeligoa (Petits Tsingy) circuits. Get to grips with the massif's karstic relief through canyons, labyrinths, diaclases, caves... in other words, the fascinating mineral and plant world of the Tsingy. Botanical trail through dense dry semi-caducifolia forest. Beautiful viewpoints over the Tsingy. Circuits of 2 and 6 km respectively, for walks of around 4 to 5 hours. Note: the Tantely circuit is a shorter variant of the Andadoany circuit (2 km for 1 hour's trekking).

Anjohimanintsy circuit. You can choose between the simple option and the sporty option. This is a combination of all the smaller circuits around Bekopaka (notably Andadoany and Ankeligoa). One or two days of walking, with the option of bivouacking at the Ankidroadroa campsite. With the sporty option, you'll have to abseil down a limestone shaft at some point. If you're feeling sporty, don't hesitate.

Andamozavaky and Ranotsara (Grands Tsingy) circuits. Andamozavaky is located 17 km north of Bekopaka. Andamozavaky is a fairly difficult, rather sporty circuit, lasting around five or six hours. Although spectacular, it is now well laid out, and the work carried out is remarkable (support points, ropes, ladders, safety harnesses). That said, the circuit remains technical, and is not recommended for those suffering from claustrophobia or vertigo. It should also be noted that some of the passages between the walls are very narrow.

The Grand Circuit begins with a beautiful network of diaclases, continues through the heart of the Antsingy dry forest, and then passes through a canyon of impressive dimensions, giving access to a cave with walls studded with limestone formations. The presence of marine snail shells is a reminder of the Tsingy's oceanic origins. The last room of the cave is a conduit where, before 2 p.m., the sun's rays penetrate to create astonishing plays of light on the various limestone formations. A little further on is the heart of the Tsingy. The entrance to the Andamozavaky circuit is an ideal place to observe the great karst cordon, spectacular at sunset and sunrise.

The best way to approach this great circuit is to set off from Bekopaka in the afternoon, arriving at the observation site at sunset, then spending the night at the campsite (ten minutes from the circuit entrance).

The Ranotsara circuit takes 3 hours to reach the Grands Tsingy. We reach a summit (via a high footbridge) from where the view is very pretty. Unlike the previous circuit, which plunges into the heart of the Tsingy, this one offers a panoramic view.

It's possible to do both circuits in one long day, but good physical condition is essential, and you'll need to take the first 6-hour ferry on the Manambolo.

Berano circuit. This circuit is located to the north of the park, near Antsalova. It's sure to please caving enthusiasts. You can visit the labyrinth of underground galleries by pirogue. Allow 3 hours for a 3 km walk.

SIBE circuits. The Tsingy region offers many other attractions for hikers and lovers of beautiful landscapes, traditional culture and botany. Other circuits have been grouped together under the name "SIBE", meaning "sites of biological and ecological interest". They are all located to the west of Bekopaka, near the Mozambique Channel.

In general, you leave Bekopaka for the village of Soatana, then head for Lake Andranobe, a lakeside complex where you can take a pirogue ride. We spend the night in Masoarivo.

The next day, we visit Lake Antsamaka, a favorite spot for bird-watching, including pink flamingos (Samaka), herons, egrets... We continue on to the Tsimembo forest. Superb plant species, typical western dry forest, lemurs and fosa in their natural habitat. We finish with a visit to Lake Bemamba, where you can take a pirogue through labyrinths of reeds and water lilies, or through the superb mangroves of the Masoarivo estuary.

The trip can last from one to three days. Some sites are accessible by 4x4 during the dry season from May to November, but you'll often have to finish on foot. Soatana is 36 kilometers from Bekopaka (2 hours by car), Masoarivo 1 hour further, and Bemamba (the tour's terminus) around 2 hours 30 from Masoarivo.

We sleep with local people and eat typical Malagasy meals. Campsite available in Masoarivo.

How to get there. Entrance tickets can be purchased at the national park office, where you can also pick up your guide for excursions (this is also where you pay the guiding fee). Smart tip: in July/August, at the height of the season, there may not be enough guides, so you'll need to book one the day before.

The starting point for your visit to the national park is the village of Bekopaka, which is completely cut off during the rainy season. There are four ways to get there:

From Morondava, by 4x4 vehicle, from May to November, taking the track from Morondava to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina and then Bekopaka: allow at least 9h in all, as the track combines earth and sand and is totally deformed by the rains. Allow at least 3 days for the experience, 2 days for transport and 1 full day on site. It's possible to rent vehicles in Morondava, and almost all hotels can arrange your trip + stay. By public transport, it's easy to get to Belo, more difficult to continue to Bekopaka: trucks sometimes go there.

If you've just come down the Tsiribihina, you'll arrive in Belo and can reach Bekopaka in the same way.

If you've just come down the Manambolo, you'll arrive directly at the foot of the Tsingy, in Bekopaka.

If you don't have the time or don't want to embark on these mini-adventures, there's an airstrip at Antsalova that allows access and overflight of the site by small aircraft (from Tana). Another, 17 km north-west of Bekopaka, is also operational.

The descent of the Tsiribihina River is an adventure for lovers of flora and fauna, of calm waves, infinite spaces, beautiful dreams, and the meeting of a rural population so endearing (the most intense memory of the descent). A wonderful adventure and a memorable experience. We set off from Miandrivazo to reach Belo-sur-Tsiribihina, 160 km at the slow pace of the river, amidst birds of every color, flocks of lemurs flitting from tree to tree, butterflies, chameleons, humpback ducks, teal, bats, crocodiles and orchids... We pass through numerous Sakalava villages. The descent can be made in two ways: by pirogue or by barge. Bivouacs take place on immense sandbanks... In short, magnificent memories in prospect!

Descent by pirogue. You can choose between two options: 3 days/2 nights to Antanambao or 4 days/3 nights to Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. The best way to ensure your trip runs smoothly is to use a local agency or one of the hotels on site. Robberies and assaults have occurred in the past, so it's imperative to ensure you have a guide you can trust. It is compulsory to register with the Miandrivazo town hall, along with your piroguier, before embarking on this adventure. Relative peace of mind in case anything goes wrong! Generally speaking, your guide will take care of the formalities for you. It's hard to give a fixed price for the whole trip, as it depends on the number of passengers. Expect to pay at least €150 per person (for 3 days), including meals, full camping gear, pirogue and the services of piroguier + guide. And even up to €200 for quality service. And don't forget to tip the piroguier, who will be going up the river afterwards! Remember to cover up well to protect yourself from the sun, and bring plenty of water. Of course, it's best to bring your own tent and sleeping bag. The canoe trip ends at Antanambao, from where you take a zebu cart to Antsiraraka (approx. 1h30 to 2h). A taxi-brousse can then take you to Tsimafana, from where you can cross the river to Belo, take a taxi-brousse to the Lodge de La Saline or Morondava, or head north to Bekopaka to see the Tsingy. A truck/taxi-brousse runs from Morondava to Antsalova, north of the park entrance, once or twice a week from April to November; it's best to check in advance to make sure there's room. Please note: it becomes increasingly difficult to paddle the river from early August onwards. From mid-September to the end of November, it even gets tricky. Expect to sweat blood and water, and probably stop along the way because you can't go any further.

Barge down. This is the comfortable option for young and old alike. Barges are motorboats, used in the early 1980s for freight (especially tobacco). They were later adapted for tourism. Today, they are equipped with a pilot cabin, galley, shaded lower deck and solarium. There are around twenty barges run by several Tana-based tour operators (fares are more or less aligned).

Most of the time, expedition departures are not exactly from Miandrivazo, but from the Masiakampy pier, a 1-hour 4x4 ride from the locality. Between March and April, however, it is sometimes possible to start the adventure in Miandrivazo (more convenient): ask your agency for details. It's worth noting that the barge, rudimentary though it is, is far more comfortable than the pirogue: you're already sheltered from the sun, which is usually very strong! What's more, whether you're on a pirogue or a barge, you'll always be camping on the same sandbanks..

Pirogue or barge? Without children, and with a minimum taste for adventure (relative, as we said), it's best to make the descent by pirogue, where the disadvantages can be offset by the surrounding silence, the definitive impression of being Indiana Jones, and a certain moral disorientation on approaching civilization (a very special feeling to experience). For barge tours, one of the most highly recommended service providers is Espace Mada.

An example of a trip by barge. On the first day, transfer to Masiakampy pier. Board a barge and begin the descent. Menabe landscape: mango trees, tobacco plantations, Sakalava villages. Entrance into the gorges. Bivouac on a large sandbank. On the second day, the descent continues. Stop at the immense Anosinampela waterfall (an entrance fee is required, included in the barge package, but extra if you opt for the pirogue) and a natural pool (ideal for a natural shower!). This stopover is sometimes possible on the first day. Then continue your descent. Birdwatching: teal, heron, kingfisher, humpback duck. Set up camp. In the evening, village entertainment with Sakalava and Cabosses songs (donations welcome). On the third day, we return to the river and finish the trip around midday.

In recent years, a cyclone has added sand to Nosy Kely's beach, so that it is now larger than it used to be. Regularly cleaned, it's an inviting place to relax. Apart from Nosy Kely, Morondava's beaches are not very suitable for bathing, as they are not always clean. For a seaside getaway, or to discover the superb seabed by diving or snorkeling, it's best to head for the nearby beaches of Betania, Bosy, Ankevo or Kimony (where you can stay at the Kimony Resort).

Every Wednesday, in Analaiva (25 kilometers from Morondava), the largest zebu market in the region is held. It is spectacular. To get there, you have to go by sea, then follow the seasonal coastal track on land in the direction of Manja (only in the dry season). This market is an opportunity to find yourself in the midst of zebu breeders and their animals, a whole other world, which allows you to realize the importance of these animals for the population, even if in recent years this culture has been heckled by the theft of zebus practiced en masse.

3 circuits have been set up in this 72,000-hectare area, located on the shores of the Mozambique Channel between Morondava and Belo-sur-Mer. Dense dry forests and thorny thickets, bays, beaches, coastal dunes and heavenly islets... You'll also see the Le Boenga or Lepilemur ruficaudatus, an endemic nocturnal lemur. Agnolinoly (2 km by pirogue, 1 hr. visit); Ambondro-Firave (3 km trekking, 2 hrs. visit); Maetsakaloe (4 km trekking, 2 hrs. visit).

Belo is the place where these two-masted schooners (often called "dhows") were built, marvels of old rigs of Breton origin, whose skeletons dot the village. Doroté knows all about the construction of these unique ships, which are still made by hand today. He will accompany you to a shipyard where you can observe the craftsmen at work. Depending on the size of the schooner, it will take between 2 and 8 years of work! To be discovered!

The Association des Guides Agréés de Morondava is THE structure to help you organize your visit to the Tsingy and throughout the Menabe. The association federates 30 approved local guides. These guides can organize all the logistics (hotel, 4x4 rental, guiding) for your visits to the Tsingy and elsewhere in the region. They'll help you travel with complete peace of mind, even if you're an independent traveller. We warmly recommend the services of Naina, the association's president, or Gera, a particularly gifted and professional guide. Tried and tested!

Mamy and Alfred, the hosts of the Tsaravahiny Center, welcome you in a friendly, respectful and... rasta (don't be surprised)! Respect for people and nature are on the agenda: you will experience here the best of what responsible tourism offers, close to nature and close to people. The equitable distribution of the resources generated by tourism among the inhabitants of Mangily makes us feel welcome by the whole population, which is not always obvious in self-managed tourism. The inhabitants of the village have received training from the WWF and the Association des Guides Agréés de Morondava and offer a wide range of activities: learning basketry, zebu cart rides, discovery of the mangrove by dugout canoe, crab fishing, folk dancing... These activities offer a complement of activities to the inhabitants and contribute to the respect and the protection of the mangrove which will be the decoration of your discoveries. You will be able to actively participate in the reforestation of this fragile and precious ecosystem by planting mangrove propagules yourself. You can also visit the village of Ampatiky, 30 minutes walk from Mangily, the village is specialized in the construction of dhows. Here, each house builds its own boat in a traditional way! We recommend this trip to all those who want to live a human and cultural experience.

The Association des Guides Agréés de Morondava is THE structure to help you organize your visit to Morondava and the entire Menabe region. The association federates 30 approved local guides. These guides can organize all the logistics (hotel, 4x4 rental, guiding) for your visits anywhere in the region, including the Tsingy and Kivalo. They'll help you travel with complete peace of mind. We warmly recommend the services of Naina, the association's president, or Gera, a particularly gifted and professional guide. To be followed with eyes closed!

The superb bay is located at 1 hour walk from Belo, or a little less (depending on the weather) by sailing dugout. This arm of the sea goes into the mangrove, where dhows go to the salt port to wait and take on board the bags of salt coming from the salt mines. At the entrance of the bay, the calm and deep water allows for beautiful observations of the sea bed. Opposite, a small vezo hamlet offers a pleasant stop. It is the occasion for a magnificent half-day trip at sea, for example with the very professional Niro, whose services we recommend!

Let's take a stroll through Morondava's neighborhoods. Let's start with Anstakoameloky, where we find the airport. The name comes from an amusing anecdote: a European manoeuvred his light aircraft badly on landing, and the wings caught on a tree (sakoa). The disgruntled tree (in the land of spirits, imagination is king) rebelled against the cursed aircraft: hence the name, which means "angry tree"! Further on, we enter the Tsimavao Be and Tsimavao Kely districts. They are located at the entrance to the town itself. Namahora Nord, the next suburb, is an important economic center, home to the town's second-largest market. Next, we reach Namahora Sud, Ankisirasira and Tanambao, right in the middle of the mangrove swamp (which turns into an island at high tide). From here, the trail heads south towards Belo-sur-Mer.

Here we are at the entrance to the town center. To the north is Labatoara (the slaughterhouse has been moved to Ambalanomby, west of the dike linking the town center to Grande Terre), and to the south is Andakabe. From here, we reach Sanfily. In the center, Bazary Be is the liveliest district: the main thoroughfare runs through it, where you'll find the main market and most of the shops. The market is well worth a visit: soubiques, hats, red and gold lambaony, fruit galore... You'll breathe in the atmosphere of Mada's big markets, with the diverse scents of spices, fruit and dried fish! Nearby, in front of the mosque, there's an atmosphere of expectation. Here you'll find the former Air Madagascar agency, the courthouse and the post office, all buildings whose architecture, peeling painted woods and faded ochres evoke the world of Conrad's Lord Jim.

To get to Nosy Kely, you have to continue further south. This is where tourism has made its home. By all appearances, the sea is eroding the coastline, retreating several hundred meters per decade! That's why breakwaters were built here, but have now fallen into disrepair. Alas, no restoration project is now planned to stem the inexorable rise in water levels. The dhow port is located in the Hellot canal, an arm of the sea through which the village of Betania can also be reached by taxi-pirogue. This little village on the other side of the mouth of the river makes a lovely stroll at dawn, when the colors and lights spread their softness over the landscape and the atmosphere of early morning.

Created in 1997, Kirindy Mitea National Park was designated a Ramsar site (wetland of international importance) in 2015 and a biosphere zone in 2016. Covering more than 156,000 hectares, it includes a wide variety of ecosystems that are representative of the diverse habitats and species of the island's western and south-western region. These include: primary dry forest (formed by a dense dry semi-caducifolia forest cover, one of Madagascar's most endangered ecosystems), savannahs to the east and south, mangroves with their rich specific flora and fauna, riparian forest along non-permanent rivers, tannes, Ambondro and Sirave lakes, bays, beaches, coastal dunes and islets... A total of five circuits are available:

Ankoatsifaka circuit. 28 km from Belo, accessible by car. Watch for lemurs, fosas, birds and baobabs.

Ambondro-Sirave circuit. Easy 4.3 km circuit to discover lakes and aquatic fauna. Panoramic ascent of a 20 m-high sand dune.

Agnolignoly circuit. Combine walking and canoeing to observe mangroves, mangrove trees and giant bats.

Mahaboboka circuit. Meet the Sifaka and the Gidro, a multitude of baobabs.

Marine circuit to explore the park's seven islets and try to spot dolphins, whales and sea turtles.

Please note that the various sites and entrances are far apart.

Belo's surroundings abound with islets and bays to discover. Ambararate (on the Morondave road, on the path before the saltworks): a 6 km hiking trail through baobabs and lemurs. Ankoasifaki: bivouacs organized on site. Kirindy-mite: just before Manahy Bay (a beautiful mangrove with a giant bat), accessible at high tide. Starting point for the Mite hike. Small baobab forest and two sacred lakes to observe, with many migratory birds, including pink flamingos (June to October).

This small seaside village, adjacent to Morondava, was so named by pious Norwegian settlers in the ^19th century. It's a pleasant getaway by pirogue - you can also visit a dhow-building site along the way. The village is home to 5,000 people, all of them Sakalava or Vezo. You can spend the night at the Hôtel du Piroguier (a dozen rudimentary bungalows). It's a shame the village is so dirty, but it's still a nice half-day trip, especially if you can't make it to Mangily or Belo-sur-Mer during your trip.