The best restaurants North

A very popular address. But why "G & T"? Because this restaurant plays on the traditions of the Guègues (northern Albanians) and the Tosques (southern Albanians). Housed in a ^17th-century house, the restaurant offers specialties from all over the country. Meats and cheeses come from the Theth region, and all kinds of rakis are served, including that of the owner, Djon. In winter, you'll be seated in a vast dining room with a huge fireplace. What's more, this establishment boasts some very attractive rooms.

Founded in 2010 by Altin and Anton Prenga, this slow-food restaurant is still the most renowned in Albania. The Prenga brothers' credo: very local (meats, cheeses, berries...) and seasonal produce, most of it from the estate, and a high quality cuisine that the average Albanian family can afford. The place is pleasant: white tablecloths, bright dining room, lively and efficient service, meticulous presentation, refined tastes and textures, beautiful setting amidst the vines, all at ultra-competitive prices.

Traditional dishes in a superb ^19th-century house next to the Orthodox Church of the Nativity of Christ. On the menu: stuffed vine leaves(japrak), stuffed peppers(speca të mbushura),, spinach or meat burek, meat okra(bamje me mish) and perfectly cooked pizzas. The same proprietors also own the recently opened and delightful Çoçja Boutique Hotel on Rue Vilson, 250 m south of Demokracia Square (from €69 for two with a good breakfast).

Housed in a large stone and wood house, the "Mystic Rose" restaurant (symbolizing the mystery of the Incarnation for Catholics) enjoys a superb location on the banks of the Vain lagoon, within the Kunë-Vain-Tale nature reserve. It serves small fried eels and wild duck from the lagoon, as well as shrimps, fish, bureks, fresh salads and homemade cornbread. Please note that prices vary according to whether you pay cash or by credit card.

Located on the Patok dike, this fine fish restaurant offers a magnificent panorama of the lagoon, its houses on stilts and its small fishing boats. You'll appreciate the wide variety of fresh fish caught in the Adriatic or in the lagoon: koce (sea bream), barbun (red mullet), levrek (sea bass), lojb (liche, cousin of horse mackerel), merluc (hake), ngjale (eel), qefull (mullet), romb (brill), burdullak (gobie-lote). We regret, however, that kitchen wastewater is discharged directly into the lagoon.

The "Ali le cheval restaurant" is not well signposted, but it's famous all over the country. And with good reason: the owner, Ali, brings your orders to you on horseback, making his mount lie down to pour onto the table a whole host of grilled fish, shrimps, grilled meats, salads, homemade honey and other big, soggy reds. It's pretty good and fresh, and above all copious (fish and shrimp are unlimited). In winter, meals are served in a cosy dining room with a fireplace. And, all year round, you can go and stroke the horses.

This traditional restaurant has a certain charm. Housed in a beautiful wood and stone building, it serves good meat grilled directly over an open fire. The welcome is rustic to say the least (no one here speaks English, French or even Italian), but with a few smiles and glasses of raki, you'll soon make yourself understood. The establishment also offers inexpensive accommodation (small wooden chalets and camping pitches) and even a mini-ski resort with a slope and a t-bar.

Situated between the villages of Melgush and Velaj, this farmhouse inn serves up delicious local specialties. On the menu: stuffed vegetables, salads, all kinds of mezzés, flia (a kind of salted "pancake cake"), fresh cheeses, well-cooked meats and wines. All products come from the family estate. Vegetarian options are plentiful, as are seasonal mushrooms. A warm welcome awaits you, and you can eat either on the terrace in the garden, or in the large dining room with its wooden ceiling and fireplace.

A big advantage of Shëgjin is that good, very fresh fish is eaten here, directly from the fishing port. Well, okay, there is nothing romantic about the environment, since this establishment is stuck between the Rozafa cooperative/creek (which supplies the whole country with fish) and the fishing port (about twenty trawlers). But we love the quality of the seafood and the low prices. Mostly frequented by the locals and the Kosovar clientele of the seaside resort, this establishment is also a hotel (large apartments with kitchen for 3-4 people).