At the gateway to Brittany, on the banks of the Vilaine River, Rennes has been at the top of the list of France's most livable and dynamic cities for several years. With a third of its population made up of students, the former Condate has never stopped rejuvenating, embellishing its image, highlighting its heritage and working tirelessly on its status as a cultural capital. The charm of its medieval streets, its prestigious buildings such as the theater or the Parliament of Brittany, the Thabor park or the Lices market, are as many excuses to discover the Breton capital. Especially during the Transmusicales, the main event of the musical year in Rennes, which takes place from this Wednesday, December 7th.
The Champs Libres, the "Breton Beaubourg
The high proportion of students, nearly 30% of the population, has also given the city a festive, welcoming and cultural profile. On the cultural side, on the left bank of the Vilaine, the Champs Libres is a unique initiative in France. The characteristic silhouette of the building, designed by the architect Christian de Portzamparc, features a gigantic inverted pyramid crossing a rectangular base flanked by a dome. This resolutely contemporary style contrasts fiercely with the historic districts of the right bank. The rectangular base houses the Museum of Brittany, while the dome houses the science space and the pyramid the library. Very interactive with its numerous audiovisual equipments, the museum offers a real journey in time, fascinating, in the heart of Brittany, its landscapes, its men, its customs.
However, you don't need to be a fan of exhibitions or the rock scene (since it also hosts part of the Transmusicales) to discover the Breton capital. The architecture of the city, with its half-timbered houses, its small alleys and inner courtyards, the banks of the Vilaine river, allows for nice city walks that you can punctuate with gastronomic discoveries or shopping.
An attractive and easily accessible destination
Choose a hotel in the city center and forget about your car, which is far too cumbersome for a short stay in a city where everything is easily accessible on foot or by metro.
If your stay in Rennes starts on a Saturday morning, head straight for the Place des Lices, where a weekly market is held under the 19th century covered market halls, one of the largest in France. It is the occasion to have a local breakfast while enjoying the countless stalls of fresh products: Breton far, pancakes or, why not, oysters and white wine... The square itself is worth the detour for the numerous medieval facades which border it and from whose windows one could watch, in the past, the jousts which were sometimes held below. It is during one of these tournaments that, in 1337, a young adventurer named Bertrand du Guesclin wrote his name in the legend by beating all the great champions gathered on the square.
Take the time to stroll and get lost in the morning bustle before heading up rue Saint-Michel, often renamed "rue de la soif" because of the high density of bistros to be found there. This is where the beating heart of student Rennes is located. The small cafés open in the morning turn into haunts for young university students looking for entertainment at night. The porches of the old wooden houses sometimes open onto small alleys where you can linger to discover pretty inner courtyards before reaching the Place Sainte-Anne, where the neo-Gothic style, with the Saint-Aubin church, combines with the half-timbered facades of the medieval houses to give it a very special character. This part of Rennes deserves two visits, since its face is quite different depending on whether you come here by day or by night. Then take the Pont-aux-Foulons street, where the facades of the houses compete in beauty with those of the Place des Lices, to join the Bastard street and go down to the classical center of Rennes.
Small tour of the city
Rue du Bastard, which connects Rue Pont-aux-Foulons to Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, is characterized by bourgeois buildings, where the city's shopping district has developed. On both sides of this wide pedestrian street, as well as in the streets La Fayette and Nationale which are perpendicular to it, are numerous stores and often prestigious signs where the people of Rennes nonchalantly window-shop at any time of the day.
La belle Bastard leads to the prestigious Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, where the town hall and the theater (now an opera house) face each other. To the west, the town hall, built in 1734, was the first to occupy the place. It is characterized, among other things, by its clock tower, slightly set back, and flanked by two curved pavilions connecting it to the two wings of the building
A century later, the rotunda theater was inaugurated, whose convex façade echoes that of the concave City Hall. Don't hesitate to climb the clock tower to admire the beauty of the square before heading to the Place du Parlement de Bretagne.
Two steps away from the Hôtel-de-Ville square, towards the east, stands the prestigious and solemn place du Parlement de Bretagne. In 1561, the Parliament was transferred from Nantes to Rennes, making the latter the undisputed capital of Brittany at a time when this title was already disputed between the two cities. The Parliament had to administer the whole region and play a political, legislative and judicial role. It therefore needed a building worthy of its power. After the laying of the foundation stone in 1618, it took half a century to build the Parliament building and another five decades to complete the exterior and interior decorations. The layout of the square was not completed until 1720, but in 1994, the magnificent roof was completely destroyed by fire. It will take more than four years to allow the people of Rennes to find their Parliament in the identical, or almost. Today, the Parliament is a must-see in Rennes and one of the most impressive architectural ensembles in Brittany
Right next door, the beautiful 16th and 17th century houses of the rue Saint-Georgesare next to restaurants, crêperies and bars. Then, for a little rest, go to the Thabor park, a park of more than 10 hectares and the favorite place of the Rennais.
The Transmusicales, a major musical event
In the 1980s, Rennes forged a vibrant image as a cultural capital through its flagship festival, the Transmusicales, which quickly became the reference for rock discoveries. The Trans' scene is mainly an international springboard for budding stars, but it also produces established headliners. It takes place at the Parc Expo, but the city also radiates the Trans' atmosphere by coming alive in different places and in the streets. In addition, free concerts are scheduled in many establishments in Rennes: it's up to you to discover the little gems of the moment. For the atmosphere and other surprises, discover the village at the Liberté, the meetings and debates, the Jeudis de l'ouïe and its conferences-concerts at the Champs Libres, the free concerts at the Liberté L'Étage, the concerts at the Ubu or at the Air Libre, the dance at the Triangle... In short, a great musical weekend not to be missed, whose prices remain very attractive considering the performances. A good reason for a winter visit during a lively weekend.
Smart info
When to go? The best time to go is at the end of the summer, or even at the beginning of the fall. To attend the 2022 edition of the Transmusicales, go from this Wednesday, December 7 to Sunday, December 11.
How to get there. By plane, train or car, everything is possible.
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Useful. To best prepare your trip.
OFFICE DU TOURISME DE RENNES - More information on the website
LES TRANSMUSICALES - More information on the website
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