LE TREK

Hiking in, and through, the extraordinary Makay massif, you'll discover many different types of terrain. The most characteristic are the deep canyons and rectilinear faults that scar the mountains. The canyons are the result of the erosion of yellow sandstone plateaus by water, and form veritable labyrinths. The treks wind their way along steep, sometimes very narrow corridors, through limpid water on a more or less soft sandy bottom. The cool, damp conditions keep the vegetation fairly dense. To reach these canyons, you often have to cross piles of rocks, tree trunks and pockets of vegetation that obstruct the entrance. Progress is very slow: you need to have a good sense of balance and be flexible, agile and nimble, as there is a high risk of falling. Exiting the canyons is not easy either. To reach the plateau, the climb is slow along the wall, the rock crumbly; every step, every hold must be secured. Some sections are secured with ropes.

On the plateau, a grandiose landscape unfolds. The term "earth's crust" takes on its full meaning: peaks, ridges, nipples as far as the eye can see... These plateaus are rarely flat, constantly rising and falling. It can get very hot. The ground is covered with round, oval pebbles that make walking difficult. Then there are the large, rough sandstone slabs that cover the plateaus, which grip well. On the other hand, our hands suffer when we have to lean or hold on to this type of rock. Beautiful meadows of golden grass also cover these plateaus. You'll need to avoid the "karibo", small brambles the same color as the grass, which violently scratch your ankles and calves. Canvas pants are recommended.

Then we discover the saka-saka. These are a succession of ascents and descents up and down hillsides, which can be quite strenuous. Sometimes you have to go around them from the top, but very often there's no choice but to descend to the bottom of these little valleys, enter the vegetation and then climb right back up again. We still cross pockets of dry forest. These are quite common. It's in this environment that lemurs can be spotted. The gidro(fulvus fulvus) and the sifaka (white sifaka) live here. We say "catch a glimpse", as these animals are totally unaccustomed to human presence here, making observation extremely difficult and photography virtually impossible.

There are no paths in these forests, and you have to make your way by machete. You frequently have to bend, straddle and grapple with overgrown vegetation. Watch out for the sneak attacks of the "takilotra", that nasty hairy bean whose highly volatile hairs are terribly itchy. This is the haunt of the porters, who will be able to detect them and show them to you to avoid them.

There is little wildlife in the massif. Apart from lemurs, we see lizards, chameleons, a few rare small snakes, always harmless, and birds such as kites and striped polyboroids.

Practical advice

Altitude in Makay is never great, between 400 and 900 meters. The massif's highest peak is 1,000 metres. The maximum difference in altitude for a single day is between 200 and 300 meters. Climbs are often steep, even very steep, and the effort, though short, is intense.

Rivers abound. The massif is surrounded by three major rivers: the Morondava to the west, the Mangoky to the south and the Sakena to the east. All other rivers are tributaries.

Shoes should be made of canvas to dry quickly, and high to hold the ankle, with firm gripping soles. But sand is tenacious! And the "special Makay" shoe has yet to be invented!

An important factor in the success of this type of trek is the presence of a team of porters and a local guide. Don't bring more than 12 kg for the porters, who must also take care of cooking and camping equipment, and 5 kg for your day bag. On this trek, you must be completely self-sufficient. Only a few villages on the outskirts of the massif have a grocery store, or even a weekly market.

Bivouacs are often set up on sandbanks close to the water. This means that you can wash and bathe almost every evening, as well as do a little laundry - so there's no need to bring too many clothes. Evenings near the water can be chilly. So pack a quality comforter and fleece. Bring a repellent product, even if there aren't many mosquitoes.

The water in the canyons, valleys and rivers is fed by numerous springs. It's clear, limpid and drinkable. However, always keep Micropur or Hydroclonazone handy.

Finally, don't forget a hat or cap, sunglasses, walking stick, sun cream, flashlight (+ batteries) and a second or even third battery for your camera.

Worth seeing and reading. A must-see is the film Makay, les aventuriers du monde perdu, written by Evrard Wendenbaum. Read also A la découverte du dernier éden, published by La Martinière (with 28 never-before-seen 3D images). Of course, we wouldn't recommend going it alone - on the contrary. The Mahay Expedition agency is the one we recommend for an exceptional adventure!