LE TREK
Hiking in the extraordinary Makay massif, and moreover, crossing it, allows to discover different types of terrains. The most characteristic are the deep canyons and rectilinear faults that cut into the mountains. The canyons are due to the erosion of the yellow sandstone plateaus by water, and they form real labyrinths. The treks rush along steep corridors, sometimes very narrow, in limpid water on a more or less soft sandy bottom. The coolness and the humidity maintain a rather dense vegetation. To reach these canyons, it is often necessary to cross heaps of rocks, tree trunks, pockets of vegetation which obstruct the entrance. The progression is very slow: it is necessary to have a great sense of balance, to be flexible, agile and nimble, the risk of falls is great. The exit of the canyons is not simple either. To reach the plateau, the ascent is slow along the wall, the rock is crumbly; each step, each hold must be secured. Some segments are secured with ropes.
On the plateau, an imposing landscape is discovered. The term "earth's crust" finds its full meaning: summits, ridges, nipples as far as the eye can see... These plateaus are rarely flat, it goes up and down all the time. It can be very hot. The ground is covered with round, oval pebbles that hinder the walk. Then the large plates of very rough sandstone which are covered with the plateaus catch well. On the other hand, the hands suffer when it is a question of leaning or holding on to this type of rock. Beautiful meadows of golden grass also cover these plateaus. It will be necessary to avoid the "karibo", these small brambles of the same color as the grass, which violently scratch the ankles and the calves. Canvas pants are recommended.
Then we discover the saka-saka. They are successions of ascents and descents on the side of hills which can be painful. Sometimes we have to go around them by the top, but very often there is no other choice than to go down to the bottom of these small valleys, to enter the vegetation, to go up again at once. We still cross pockets of dry forests. They are quite frequent. It is in this environment that we can see lemurs. The gidro(fulvus fulvus) and the sifaka (white sifaka) live there. We specify "see", because these animals are not used to human presence here, the observation is very difficult and the photography almost impossible.
In these forests, no paths, it is with the machete that we advance. It is frequently necessary to bend, straddle and struggle with a rather invasive vegetation. Beware here of the sneaky attacks of the "takilotra" this ugly hairy bean whose very volatile hairs scratch terribly. It is the dread of the carriers, they will know how to detect them and show them to you in order to avoid them.
Few fauna in the massif. Besides lemurs, we can see lizards, chameleons, some rare small snakes, always harmless and birds such as kites or striped polyboroids.
Practical advice
The altitude in Makay is never important, between 400 and 900 meters. The summit of the massif culminates at 1,000 meters. The difference in altitude can be a maximum of 200 to 300 meters for a single day. The climbs are often steep, even very steep, and the effort although short is intense.
The rivers are numerous. The massif is surrounded by three large rivers: to the west the Morondava, to the south the Mangoky, to the east the Sakena. All the other rivers are tributaries.
The shoes will have to be made of canvas in order to dry quickly, high to hold the ankle, with good gripping soles. But the sand is tenacious! And the "special Makay" shoe remains to be invented!
An important part of the success of this kind of trek is the presence of a team of porters and a local guide. Do not bring more than 12 kg for the porters, who must also take care of the cooking and camping equipment, and 5 kg for your day bag. During this trek, you must be in total autonomy. Only a few villages around the massif have a grocery store, or even a weekly market.
The bivouacs are often set up on the sandbanks near the water. It is thus possible, almost every evening, to wash, to bathe but also to make a small washing - where from the uselessness to bring too many clothes. Evenings near the water can be cool. Therefore, bring a good quality comforter and a fleece. Bring a repellent, even if there are not many mosquitoes.
The water in the canyons, valleys and rivers is fed by numerous springs. The water is clear and drinkable. However, always have Micropur or Hydroclonazone on hand.
Finally, don't forget hat or cap, sunglasses, walking stick, sun cream, flashlight (+ batteries) and a second or third battery for your cameras.
To see, to read. You absolutely must see the film Makay, les aventuriers du monde perdu, written by Evrard Wendenbaum. Read also A la découverte du dernier éden, published by La Martinière (with 28 unpublished images in 3D). Obviously, we do not recommend you to try this adventure alone, on the contrary. The agency listed below is the one we recommend to live an exceptional adventure!