CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK

The story of the creation of Carlsbad Caverns begins 250 million years ago with the formation of a 640 km long reef in an inland sea covering the region.

This horseshoe-shaped reef was composed of sponge debris, algae, shells and calcite. Cracks appeared in the reef as it grew seaward. As the sea evaporated, the reef was buried under deposits of salts and gypsum.

A few million years ago, elevation and erosion of the area began to uncover the buried reef rocks. Rainwater, made slightly acidic by the air and soil, seeped into the cracks, slowly dissolving the limestone. Thus began the long, slow process of forming large underground chambers, now important places of visitation. At the same time, hydrogen sulfide migrated from the top of vast oil and gas deposits, located under the ancient reef. This gas dissolved in the seeping groundwater to form sulfuric acid. The potency of this corrosive substance explains the size of the passages. This exposed reef became part of Guadalupe Mountain and the caves below became the wonder of Carlsbad Caverns.

The decoration of Carlsbad Caverns began more than 500,000 years ago, after most of the cave had been excavated. It happened slowly, drip by drip, when a wetter, cooler climate prevailed. As the water slowly drips from the ceiling, soda straws and then large stalactites appear. The water falling to the ground creates the stalagmites. When a stalactite and a stalagmite meet, they form a column.
The draperies were hung where the water ran in a sloping ceiling. Water running over the surface of a wall or floor deposits layers of calcite called flowstone. Like oyster pearls, cave pearls were formed by the deposition of successive layers of calcite around a grain of sand or other tiny objects. The massifs of lilies were formed on the surface of basins, the water of the dams flowing slowly on the ground. As for the "popcorn", it was formed when the water evaporated and left the calcite deposits.

For thousands of years, the area was an important place for Native Americans to hunt, gather plants, and perform religious and medicinal rituals. The Mescalero Apache used a word meaning the house of the bat to refer to these caves, while the Zuni Pueblo called it the cave of bats. Near the natural entrance, you can see drawings left on the walls and even some cooking places, like this oven dug in the rock, still visible today.

In 1898, a young cowboy named Jim White, attracted by the ballet of thousands of bats, decided to see what was hidden behind the opening. Equipped with a simple torch, he discovered the magic of this underground place, populated with superb colored formations.
The small winged mammal had taken up residence there. A thick layer of guano covered the ground. Jim White, along with a few local rangers, planned to make use of this natural fertilizer, accumulated over the centuries. Thanks to his successful venture, he was able to explore the network of underground pathways. Jim White and Ray V. Davis, who accompanied and assisted him, took photographs together, which were exhibited in Carlsbad in 1915. The pictures, published in 1923 by the New York Times, aroused great interest, so much so that the site was declared a "national monument" on October 25 of the same year, a "national park" seven years later, and inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List on December 6, 1995. Jim White, who dedicated his life to the Carlsbad site, was the first chief ranger. From then on, exploration and development continued throughout the second half of the ^20thcentury, with the discovery of Guadalupe Room in 1966, Bifrost Room in 1982 and Chocolate High in 1993. In the meantime Lechuguilla Cave turns out to be much deeper than we could imagine. In 2006, it developed 192 km of network for a depth of 489 m, which makes it one of the largest caves in the world and one of the deepest of the American continent. The discovery of the spectacular character of its underground landscapes was an unparalleled event in the world of caving and scientists. Today, teams of researchers are trying to unravel the mysteries of Carlsbad Caverns, including its creation, human impact, and the fascinating world of bats.

New Mexico's climate is itself continental semi-arid, mostly dry, mild and sunny. The average annual temperature is 15.5°C, with highs reaching 38°C or more. Precipitation is very low: 381 mm/year.

The park has a semi-arid climate and is characterized by warm summers and mild winters, despite occasional snowstorms. In summer, temperatures average 37°C, in winter 11-15°C. Intense thunderstorms occur from July to September, with heavy rainfall causing the risk of flooding. In fact, these caves suffered a major flood this year, causing their temporary closure. The temperature of the cave is 13 °C all year round.

Although there are a few scattered forests at the higher elevations, the park consists primarily of grasslands and desert shrublands. Often the wonderfully colorful wildflowers bloom just after the summer rains. The plant communities are very diverse and some are unique. The park is also home to no less than 900 species and subspecies of vascular plants. There are also many species of cacti, sunflowers, grasses and legumes.

In this semi-arid environment, the visitor discovers a strange fauna that has adapted over time to an underground life. Outside, the lack of water selects by itself the occupants. With a little luck, you will see the Great Horned Owl greeting the sunrise. Proudly standing on its muscular legs and folded wings, it is one of the 350 or so resident birds that know how to share their space with the many migratory species when the time comes. Five species of fish have been noted at Rattlesnake Springs, one of the few wooded areas on the edge of the desert that attracts birders from around the world. The famous Carlsbad Caverns offer a unique glimpse of the underground world, beautifully preserved in this rugged desert landscape.

The park also has a very rich invertebrate fauna (including 600 insects), which also attracts many scientists. Scolpendra heros is surprisingly agile, fast and even voracious. Beware! its bite is poisonous. The cave cricket, meanwhile, is the delight of many creatures. Among the 55 species of reptiles and amphibians, lizards and turtles bask in the sun. The gray-banded kingsnake is endangered. Some 100 species of butterflies play on the charm of their colors. Among the fossils, mollusks, sponges, worms, nautilus, snails are distributed in the rocks. Among the large mammals, there are 67 species of mammals, some reintroduced, including the black bear (rarely encountered), the cougar, the collared peccary, the pronghorn. However, the star of the place is without doubt the bat (27 species). The Bat Cave Area is home to a large colony that comes here to nest, give birth and raise their young.

October 2023 marks the 100th anniversary of Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

Today, the park has a total of 120 caves, but they hope to find more with continued exploration. There are also about 500,000 visitors per year. We highly recommend the King's Palace Tour, a guided tour by a park ranger, lasting an hour and a half, through four decorated rooms. It will take you into the deepest part of the cave open to the public, 253 meters below the desert surface. Although not as difficult as the natural entrance trail, this one-mile (1.6 km) tour requires an additional descent and, at the end, a very steep climb. You'll see a wide variety of cave formations, including helictites, draperies, columns and soda straws. Rangers frequently turn off the power during this tour, briefly turning off all artificial lights to reveal the cave's natural darkness. You can also borrow audio guides during your visit.

Please note that all visitors are required to walk on bio-cleaning mats after their exit. This is due to the potential presence of the fungus responsible for "white nose syndrome", which is present in New Mexico.

Head to the gift shop to pick up some fun souvenirs from your visit to Carlsbad Caverns, including stuffed animals and toys for children and educational books of all kinds. You can also invest a little money in the bat conservation program, starting with just a $10 package.

Here is some practical information:

Ranger stations. Their headquarters are in Carlsbad. They are present at the Visitor's Center, in the cave and the rest of the park. Please note that some visits are forbidden to children under 4 years old (ask for information) and those under 16 years old must be accompanied by an adult.

Post office and cash machine. There is no post office or ATM in the park. You must go to Carlsbad, 23 miles away.

Accessibility. About two-thirds of the Big Room in Carlsbad Caverns is accessible to accompanied wheelchair users. An access guide is available at the Visitor's Center information desk. Spaces for people using wheelchairs are located at the entrance to the Bat Amphitheater. Restrooms are available and fully accessible.

Best time to visit. The ideal time depends on the purpose of the visit. Fall is the best time of the year because of the climate. However, if you want to see the bats coming out, you have to go in the summer.