Things to see and do Moanda

The park was created in 1992 with the dual aim of protecting the biological resources characteristic of these wetlands, and helping to promote tourism. Covering 76,000 hectares, it is divided into three zones: a coastal strip, a terrestrial zone along the river and a zone comprising numerous mangrove islets. The mangrove is a maritime marsh ecosystem with a typical and very rich plant biotope that develops at the mouth of the river. This is a fragile environment. The most notable woody species are mangroves, with the typical aerial outgrowth of their roots, the phoenix palm and the raffia palm. The mangrove is home to a few hippos upstream, various species of monkey, crocodiles, olive ridley turtles, snakes, horse antelopes, eagles and the emblematic manatee. Don't hesitate to stock up on ultra-fresh fish from the fishermen, and enjoy oyster kebabs and those big shrimps known as cossas.

The main dangers associated with the Reserve are poaching, deforestation and the despoiling of beaches and savannahs. Hydrocarbon pollution from ocean liners passing through the mouth and fuel trafficking between Angola and Congo are also a problem. Perenco, which extracts crude oil offshore, is committed to respecting the environment. The park is managed by ICCN. The park is managed by ICCN, and staffed by some twenty well-trained rangers. Boat trips are available through the meandering channels and canals of an inextricable natural environment, with the smells and noises it generates and the visible mark of the tides, which vary by a good metre four times a day. Several small islands are accessible, where fishing families camp. One of these is Bulambemba, where you'll find the ruins of the old fort built in 1942. Accommodation is available on the small island of Kimwabi, littered with oyster shells. Two straw huts with mattresses are available. They're clean but relatively spartan, with no water or electricity. A meal based on oysters and shrimps will be prepared for you by the mothers. 10/night and $25/local meal included.

As a wetland of international importance, including the presence of vulnerable species of fish and waterfowl, the Mangrove Marine Park is listed as a Ramsar site.

A few kilometers from Moanda, the river flows into the ocean. Banana was the oldest colonial post. European trading posts had been established here since the early ^19th century, while the port had been an active slave market since the time of the Portuguese in the^15th century. A few remains can still be seen: ruined cottages, anklets, small rusty cannons... On the other side of the mouth, you can see Soyo in Angola. A project to build a deep-water port has been on the drawing board for decades.

Then there's Tonde, with its eponymous river. This is Moanda's beautiful beach. Located at the foot of the cliffs, this is where young people and families gather at weekends in a very festive atmosphere. The beach is part of the mangrove marine park, and is therefore managed by ICCN. The infrastructure includes sanitary facilities, a bar and straw huts. Further north, Nsiamfumu beach is the other small seaside resort. It seems to be coming back to life with a few bars and small hotels springing up.

After a courtesy call on the village chief, we board the pirogue, which can accommodate up to 8 people. The group of hippos is made up of half a dozen individuals, including a very powerful male. These animals are quite territorial and therefore readily threatening. And it's to cries of "Akas, Akas" ("come") that the guides will try to attract Rambo, Bijou, Dokol or Euphrasie! It's quite common to be able to admire them in the water or on the shore, provided you go early in the morning, when they are on the banks.