DURBAR SQUARE

The palace is located on the outskirts of the city. Many scenes from Bernardo Bertolucci's film Little Buddha were shot here. The earthquake of 2015 caused heavy damage. Reconstruction is underway.

The royal palace: The foundations date back to the 15th century, at the time of King Yaksha Malla. The 1934 earthquake wreaked havoc there, as can be seen in the old photos on a porch.

The palace with 55 windows: Painted in red and black, the palace dates from the 18th century and now houses the National Art Gallery. But of the 99 courtyards that made up its splendour, only half a dozen remain. Linked to Kumari Chowk, inaccessible to visitors, Mul Chowk, the main courtyard, is dedicated to a shrine to Taleju, the tutelary goddess of the Malla kings. While the temple is off limits to non-Hindus, no one will prevent you from admiring the carved wooden tympanum above the entrance. Two statues symbolizing the sacred Indian rivers, Ganga and Jamuna, frame the door surmounted by a torana representing Taleju, with 4 heads and 8 arms. With a bit of luck, the soldier posted at the entrance will let you have a look, so that you can appreciate the richness of the sculptures.

In Sundari Chowk, a superb bronze nâga, a marine deity, rushes into the Nak Pokhari, the sacred pool. The golden statue of the hero Bhupatindra Malla, is perched, in a prayer position, at the top of a pillar, facing the golden Sun Dhoka gate, dating from 1753. The gold-plated copper door set within a glazed brick wall is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful works of art in the valley. Its gilded roof, surmounted by elephants and lions, is an addition by the last king of Bhaktapur, Ranjit Malla. Framed by the monkey god Hanuman and the lion-man Narsingha, this gate was once the entrance to the palace.

As you exit and turn left, two temples are dedicated to Siddhi Lakshmi and Durga. Behind the Taleju stone bell, erected in 1757 by King Ranjit Malla to call the faithful to morning prayer, stands Vatsala Temple, whose shikara style is reminiscent of the Krishna Mandir of Patan. Next to it, the Yaksheshvara temple, a superb replica of the Pashupati temple, stands out for its erotic sculptures. It owes its name to its founder Yaksha Malla. After a major earthquake that shook the city, the temple was restored in 1968.

A little away from the square, continuing straight ahead, you arrive at the Tadhunchen temple, venerated by both Hindus and Buddhists.