UP THE SEKONG RIVER TO LAOS

The Sekong River, quite ordinary from Steung Treng to Siempang, becomes magnificent in its upper reaches. Once past the inhabited area, the forest is sumptuous. Some bamboos have trunks over 30 m long. The long sandy beaches are ideal for camping. Some passages through rapids amidst a maze of boulders add a dramatic dimension to the excursion. In the dry season, fishermen's camps provide an opportunity to eat fresh fish and have a good time with people who are always delighted to see strangers. Two beautiful tributaries on the right bank, O Kampa (the largest) and O Chienghieng, are worth exploring. There are crocodiles here (the Siamese crocodile is extremely rare in the wild). The two streams meander endlessly through the forest. Numerous boulders make progress difficult and can even prevent it in the dry season.

On the O Kampa river lies the Lao village of Nava, linked to Siempang by a track. As you approach the border, you pass a few military and police posts. The boat is obliged to stop: you have to make yourself known, and above all have a friendly drink with the officials, who are delighted to have visitors. Just beyond the mouth of the Sé Piang, the Sékong River forms the border with Laos. If you wish to spend the night on the Laotian side (in a village belonging to the Xou ethnic group), you must first report to the two nearby border posts.