KAYABA COFFEE

Housed in a building dating from the early 20th century, this little café has become something of a neighborhood institution. Inaugurated in 1938 and closed in 2006, it was reopened after renovation in 2009. On weekends, a long line of people wait to sample a cup of tea or Japanese pastries. We particularly like their anmitsu, a jelly made from agar-agar, beans and fruit, and the perfect coffee flavor. From 8 a.m. onwards, it's a pleasant place to eat in the morning, in the tatami room, when there's hardly anyone around and you can linger over a book.