MERCHANT DOMES

These massive constructions feature a highly functional architecture. Located at street crossings, their high ogival entrances allowed merchants and camels laden with merchandise to circulate easily. The galleries (where the stalls are set up) intersect in a central hall topped by a high dome. It's cooler here than outside, and the heat-weary visitor appreciates the qualities of a place that encourages exchanges. If the mosques and madrasas were the heart of Bukhara, the trading domes ensured its growth and power, thanks to trade and the taxes it generated.

Today, only three merchant domes, known as tâk, remain from the Chaybanid era, in addition to the tim Abdullah Khan. In the past, the shopping streets leading to them were also lined with stalls and protected from the sun by reed mats. Drowned in eternal dust, the traffic was particularly exotic, mixing quadrupeds of all sizes and bipeds from all walks of life.

Tak-i-sarrafan, the money-changers' dome. Following the canal that runs along the southern flank of the Liab-i-Khaouz, you come to the Tak-i-Sarrafan dome, also known as the "changers' dome". Built in 1538, it was home to the Jewish money-changers, the only people allowed to engage in this trade, which the Uzbeks considered to be bad luck.

Tak-i-Telpak Furushan, the hatters' dome. North of the Magok-i-Attari mosque, the hatters' dome was located in the raba, or outer city, just outside the southern gateway to Shahristan. All kinds of hats were sold here, from embroidered tioubetek to fur hats, as well as books. The tomb of the holy man, Khodja Ahmed-i-Paran, reminded merchants that there were riches other than material ones. Despite its name, it is now home to carpet sellers.

Tim Abdullah Khan. Head north up rue Hakikat, on the right after the hatmakers' bazaar. This covered market (late ^16th century) displays the finest hand-woven ikate silks and a wide selection of carpets from all over the world. The looms are on display at the back of the tim.

Tak-i-Zargaran, the jewelers' dome. It was located inside Shahristan, the medieval inner city, between the Mir-i-Arab madrasa and the Ulugh Begh and Abdul Aziz Khan madrasas. Even today, jewelry merchants are not far away. There's a small gold market on Khodja Nurabad Street, and jewellers under the dome.