VAT PHOU

The dynasties extend their powers to eventually rule, as early as the 9th century, over the entire Khmer territory and choose Angkor as their capital. However, the Khmer rulers honoured this place until the reign of the last king, Jayavarman VII, in the 12th century, and laid the foundations at Wat Phou. Later, this shrine became Buddhist and has remained so to this day. Every year, at the end of January or beginning of February, a festival takes place at the time of the full moon which attracts crowds of the faithful.

This site is older than Angkor Wat (by about two centuries). Francis Garnier rediscovered the site in 1866; the villagers then thought it had been built by people of another race.

Inscriptions dating from the ^5th and 6th centuries mention the presence of a temple in the mountain, but this has disappeared and has been replaced by the present site. Vat Phou as we see it today was built in the first part of the 11th century. Extensions and renovations were carried out in the 13th century. The complex is oriented along an East-West axis, climbs a mountain and leads to the sanctuary, located on a terrace at the foot of the cliff where the sacred spring flows.

The barays and the alley. On entering the site one first sees two barays, artificial lakes representing the ocean that surrounds the land, and then a sandstone terrace. A brick-lined driveway leads to an esplanade where two buildings face each other.

The palaces, Nandi temple, and the old Khmer road. The two rectangular buildings with an inner courtyard have carved pediments, dating from the 11th century (Koh Ker period). From here a central alley lined with partly destroyed galleries leads to a staircase. On the side (south of the alley), one can admire the remains of a mid-11th century building known as the temple of Nandi, the sacred bull of Shiva's mount. Then a high road leads to the Nang Sida temple via Ban That where there are three Khmer chapels, 30 km to the south, and ends at Angkor.

The stairs and the terrace. The first staircase leads to a terrace, then to a second staircase at the foot of which are two buildings dating from the 13th century. Now partly destroyed, they both contained a Dvarapala or gatekeeper. Only the one in the north is still visible: he holds a club in one hand, the other is placed on his heart as a sign of respect. It would be a representation of King Kammantha. From the top of the second staircase one reaches a third one... which leads to the penultimate terrace and its six brick towers, whose period of origin is uncertain (11th century?). They contained Shivalinga. From here you can see the vast upper terrace.

The source (basement). Behind the portico, a rock shelter would contain the sacred springs. Archaeological excavations carried out between 1991 and 1993 revealed several successive developments in this area whose function was the collection and conveyance of water to the sanctuary. This unique layout is what makes Vat Phou so special. In the past, a small temple embedded in the cliff sacralized the spring water. Behind were found bronze Khmer statuettes of Vishnu, a female deity and effigies of Buddha. The water from the spring was collected in a basin of green sandstone and bricks and brought to the sanctuary via an aqueduct.

Pedestals unearthed around the spring bear witness to the presence of statues that have now disappeared, probably Shivalinga.

The sanctuary. It is on the upper terrace that the main sanctuary was built in the mid-11th century. Like all Khmer temples, it has a library and is bordered on the west by a 13th century stepped portico with two doors leading to the sacred spring area.

In the rock supporting the portico, behind the sanctuary, a sculpture of Trimurti, the Hindu trinity (Shiva, centre; Brahma, right; Vishnu, left) can be seen. The sanctuary is accessed through three gates: south, east and north. At the back, there used to be a Shivalinga sprinkled with water from the spring. Note: the permanent watering of the lingam is something unique in the Khmer Hindu religion. This gives a special character to Vat Phou. On the exterior facades, one can see the guardians of the doors and the Devata, female deities. The doors are all carved and we see mostly representations of Krishna, Indra, Vishnu, Shiva and illustrations of the Ramayana. This sanctuary has been converted into a Buddhist temple and contains recent statues of Buddha.

To the north of the sanctuary, one can see recent monastic buildings and further on, carved rocks: an elephant, a crocodile and a snake (naga). They would date from the 13th century (or earlier). Perhaps a place of sacrifice during the festivities of Vat Phou... See also the remains of much older sandstone meditation cells (walls, pedestals). A Buddha's foot is carved into the rock.

Around Vat Phou, 1 km south of Nandi temple, you can visit the ruins of Nang Sida temple dating back to the early 12th century. Further on is the temple of Thao Tao from the beginning of the 13th century. It is more difficult to access. On the other bank of the river, on the banks of the Nam To Mo, are the remains of another temple dating from the 7th and 12th centuries.