CAFÉ HAWELKA

Opened in 1939 by Bohemian-born Leopold Hawelka (1911-2011), this uniquely charming artists' café is a Viennese institution. It's a favourite with regulars. Gourmets recognize the Hawelka by its smell, especially after 10 pm, when fresh Buchteln, a brioche speciality made from leavened dough and filled with marmalade, according to Josefine Hawelka's recipe, come out of the oven. Today, Günther Hawelka, son of Josefine and Leopold, continues the tradition. Coffee roasting and sales. Another Hawelka address on Breitenfurter Straße.