Things to see and do Almaty

The cable car takes you to the top of the hill where the TV tower overlooks the entire city. It's a popular outing for Almaty's residents, who like to climb it day and night to admire the panorama of both the city and the surrounding mountains. Several restaurants are set up at the top of the hill, along with various stalls (shooting galleries, etc.), giving the whole area a fairground feel. You can also choose to walk back down to Dostyk, through the suburbs of Almaty.

Created in 1996, this national park was recognized as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2017. Covering an area of almost 5,000 ^km2 at the foot of the Ak Tau mountain range, half of the park is covered by splendid dunes that are said to have the ability to sing. A number of forests and alpine meadows on the mountainsides also provide bucolic backdrops. The park's fauna consists mainly of Saiga gazelles, or goitered gazelles, although their population is declining sharply following numerous killings. A few Przewalski's horses have also been introduced over the last fifteen years.

The singing dunes.This is what makes this park so famous and so mysterious: the dunes form a cordon just over 1.5 km long and 150 metres high. And the miracle of the song has to be earned, as you have to start by climbing through the sand, slipping with every step, and facing an often quite strong wind, another essential element without which, of course, the "song of the dunes" wouldn't happen. If you follow Marco Polo's advice and follow the ridge of fine sand to the top of the dunes and then run down, you'll hear the dunes sing. In fact, all you have to do is walk along the side of the dunes to start hearing their murmur, which is said to be due to the hissing sound emitted by the grains of sand sliding en masse along the body of the dune. But running, as much as possible, produces a much more audible sound. Of course, the experience multiplied by hundreds of visitors is not without catastrophic consequences for the dunes themselves, and perhaps just listening to the singing will suffice... Visitors are just as numerous in winter, when the dunes are covered in a beautiful blanket of snow.

Aktau, the "white mountains".In the eastern part of the Altyn-Emel National Park, you can wander among these pebbly hills, gullied by rain and whose high concentrations of clay or ore give them multicolored hues, best seen at the beginning or end of the day. When the sun is at its zenith, many of these hills, crushed by light, simply appear white or red, hence their nickname of "white mountain" or "red cliff". As soon as the light is lowered, the green, purple and blue-striped flanks create an enchanting, fairytale-like universe.

The best way to reach the park is by bus between Almaty and Balkach, but there is no public transport between Balkach and the park. However, in summer and on weekends in winter, a few marchroutka shuttle buses operate. But given the distance, the easiest way is to charter a vehicle directly from Almaty and drive to the village of Shengeldy, which marks one of the entrances to the park, or to the village of Bashi, to the north of the reserve, which is easier for access to the singing dunes. Negotiate the route and the driver's waiting time. It's important to follow the marked trails in the reserve. The visit can be made over a long day (leaving before dawn and returning at night), but it is possible to sleep and eat near the park. Please note that you must leave Almaty in the direction of Balkach. Once you've passed Balkach, turn right onto a small road (signposted).

In the heart of Panfilov Park, this church is one of the city's most beautiful monuments, and Almaty's oldest building. Constructed of wood (it is one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world, with a tower 56 m high), it has withstood every earthquake since 1904, even though it was assembled without a single nail. This large, brightly-colored and gilded church was returned to Orthodox worship in 1995, after having been transformed into a museum and concert hall during the Soviet period.

The former Gorky Park, renamed Central Park of Culture and Leisure, is the city's largest park, with 100 hectares of greenery. It was laid out in 1856 along the river, a perfect place for strolling and leisure activities. It is home to many attractions: the Rodina cinema, various themed areas for children, the city zoo (open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.), an aquapark (open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.) and a host of small open-air cafés. It's a pleasant place to be if you're looking for a little freshness and greenery.

Learn all about Kazakh musical instruments. The museum is interesting, with a nice little concert hall. But it lacks explanations in English. Many instruments, especially dombras, once belonging to great Kazakh musicians and poets, have been recovered to enrich the museum's collection. The visit is as much worthwhile for the museum as for the wooden monument that houses it, a former cathedral erected in 1908.

The museum offers a complete panorama of the country's history since the bronze age, in a fairly well-designed timeline, although it is regrettable that no comments are made in English. Four bright halls with a beautiful setting, connected by galleries, display more than 200 000 historical pieces reminiscent of Kazakhstan through four historical periods. A beautiful hall is devoted to local ethnography, and the room on independent Kazakhstan is a fine example of political propaganda. Between the two, we will be able to dwell in the room devoted to the Soviet period, rich in many pieces today. Recently decorated, a fifth hall regularly displays the museum's funds, which have never been exposed in the other pavilions. The theme of this fifth hall is therefore periodically renewed. At the entrance you will find two souvenir stores offering a few crafts and carpets.

A classic amusement park, with a few roller coasters and a Ferris wheel offering a beautiful view of the city. Just as classic in Central Asia: it caught fire in May 2012. The reconstruction work had the merit of renovating the park's attractions and equipment, which nonetheless dated back to the Soviet era. A few years after the disaster, the park has once again become Almaty's major family attraction. Food stalls on site.

Built in 1999 on the initiative of President Nazarbayev, this mosque is now the city's largest. It can be spotted from afar thanks to its five minarets, the tallest of which reaches 47 m into the sky. But the white tiles enhanced by turquoise mosaics that make up the entire exterior façade are a little disappointing when seen up close, and of course offer nothing truly historic or authentic. Nevertheless, it is one of Almaty's greatest post-independence architectural achievements, most of the construction projects having subsequently benefited the new capital Astana. Entrance is via the iwan, which leads to an impressive octagonal prayer hall topped by a vast turquoise dome 36 m high and 20 m in diameter. It's a brightly-lit room, where the freshness of the marble is maintained by the dome. The dome's exterior decorations are in the Timurid style, using the same shapes and motifs as the domes of the Yessy mausoleum in Turkestan and other similar monuments in Uzbekistan. In particular, the calligraphy features suras from the Koran. These were created by Turkish architects at the turn of the century. To this day, Almaty's central mosque remains the largest in the country, accommodating up to 7,000 worshippers. The mosque compound also houses the religious administration of Kazakhstan's Muslims.

This beautiful Orthodox church is less well known than the one in Panfilov Park, but it's still worth a look. It's as green as the Zenkov Church is yellow, and can be spotted from afar thanks to its golden domes. It was built at the very beginning of the ^20th century, turned into stables by the Soviets, before being returned to worship in 1980. During your visit, you'll want to observe the customs and traditions of Orthodox countries. The small Nikolsky bazaar is just to the left of the church entrance.

This column, topped by a statue of the Golden Knight, has become the symbol of the city. It stands opposite the municipal government building, a colossus of neoclassical architecture. On the other side of the square are the National Museum, a large white structure topped by a dome, and the presidential residence, recognizable by its large gates and permanently patrolling guards. The original Golden Knight can only be seen in the National Museum of Kazakhstan in Astana; Almaty has only kept replicas.

Located right in the city center, with the main entrance on Gogol Street and multiple entrances around the perimeter, Panfilov Park takes its name from the commanding general of the ^316th division of the Red Army, who fought heroically during the Battle of Moscow between November 1941 and January 1942. This is one of Almaty's must-see sites. Its 18 hectares were laid out at the end of the ^19th century, and since then it has remained one of the city's favorite places to stroll and relax. Shady areas alternate with sunny squares, little nooks and crannies hide lovers from the gaze of passers-by, pigeons flock around the smallest bread crumbs... The whole area is enlivened by a few merry-go-rounds, shooting galleries, open-air karaoke... In short, it's a lively park all day long, and most of the night. Panfilov Park is a place for strolling and meditating, around the memorial to the Great Patriotic War and its eternal flame. In winter, a skating rink, very popular with young couples and families, takes up residence right at the foot of the church. A must-see on your visit to the town, and one you'll be sure to return to again and again to test out the different atmospheres throughout the day.

As you stroll through the park, you'll discover some of Almaty's most notable monuments: the Zenkov Church, the Great Patriotic War Memorial, the Military Museum.

To take a look at the "official" art of the moment through regularly renewed exhibitions that may be devoted to a theme, an artist or a period. Painting as well as Central Asian crafts and nomadic culture (music, carpets, games...) are represented in all their forms. Even if the ensemble lacks resources, it's a good option for getting an idea of Kazakh craftsmanship. The premises have been refurbished to regain the lustre lost over the years, and together they form a pleasant break during a visit to the city.

A variety of Kazakh artists are on show in this small gallery, which boasts beautiful canvases with a wide range of influences. You'll find everything from a kitsch steppe décor with a prancing horse to dark, masterfully executed canvases evoking gulags. It's also worth poking around to find paintings by artists who are not well known or who didn't have a chance between the Soviet occupation and the upheavals of independence, but who are not without talent! A visit to our Instagram page will give you a good idea.

This museum traces the country's military history, with a wealth of images and propaganda posters, which are probably the most interesting elements for a foreigner. The place is radically lacking in explanations in English, and the succession of portraits of local generals leaves one a little indifferent. It's a pity, because the museum's collection of over 6,000 items - paintings, weapons, armor, uniforms - would benefit from being highlighted.

This imposing monument was built as a tribute to the soldiers who fell in the Second World War during the defense of Moscow between November 1941 and January 1942. The men of the ^316th Division, commanded by General Panfilov, fought against the German armies to defend the capital and hold out until a counter-offensive was possible. It takes the form of an impressive stone statue designed in the purest tradition of Soviet realism, placed at the end of a stone walkway where an eternal flame burns. A soldier literally seems to emerge from the rock, while behind his outstretched arms stand out the faces and profiles of other soldiers of various nationalities. The main monument is framed by two frescoes in the same style, dedicated to World War II soldiers on the right, and to Russian revolutionaries on the left. The whole was inaugurated on May 9, 1975, for the 30th^{anniversary of} the victory. It is the work of Russian sculptors Andryushchenko and Artimovich, champions of Soviet realism who had already worked on other monuments of the same type in various republics of the Soviet empire. It was completely restored in 2012. The site is one of Almaty's must-sees, popular with newlyweds who come here to have their photos taken in full regalia. Every year on May 9, the date chosen for the end of the Second World War throughout the former USSR, the victory over fascism continues to be celebrated around the eternal flame.

This small gallery exhibits the work of Kazakh artists from all over the country. It's a good place to take the measure of the contemporary nomadic artistic fiber. There's no real unity of style, and the exhibits move from vintage to modern, drawing on every possible trend and influence in a setting that's sometimes cosy, sometimes destroyed. There's no doubt about it, the aim is to unsettle visitors a little, and to highlight the works on display as much as possible. A must-see for art lovers and neophytes alike.

Before entering the museum, take the time to stroll down Tolebaev Street, between Shevchenko and Bogenbay Batyr. This street, with its cobbled, pedestrianized central alley lined with well-maintained streets used by often high-end vehicles, is the historic residential area of Almaty's elite. Sure, the buildings sometimes look old and decrepit, but in the 1970s and 1980s they were the best of the best. Prices and rents were among the highest in Almaty, and only the political classes and intelligentsia could afford to live there. Today, the past presence of these leading figures of the regime or of civil society is evoked by the large plaques, still very Soviet, which adorn the buildings on either side of the street: here a prima ballerina, here a general, further on a poet... A large part of Kazakhstan's recent official history passes by as you walk down Tolebaev Street.

At the corner with rue Bogenbay Batyr, on the left, is the apartment of Dinmukhamed Kounaev (1912-1993), First Secretary of the Communist Party of Kazakhstan from 1964 to 1986. The apartment is modest in size but richly decorated, especially with the many gifts received by the First Secretary from counterparts and heads of state.

Dinmukhamed Kunaev's apartment-museum. Ready for a trip back in time? The first room on the right is Kunaev's study, where you can admire his personal collection of lighters: no fewer than 467 of them, including two donated by Kennedy himself. On the desk you'll find the telephone that was once connected directly to the Kremlin, and a collection of old LPs, some of them autographed by artists, with Michael Jackson at the top of the pile.

In the dining room, note the massive sideboard, a gift from Leonid Brezhnev, topped by two elephant sculptures, gifts from Mahatma Gandhi. At the far end of the room, the armchairs still bear the shape of the august posteriors they supported during long evenings of political discussion around an old-fashioned radio. This is followed by the TV room and the bedroom, with its little make-up room for Madame, and the kitchen with all its vintage equipment.

On your way out, you can take a tour of the building's lobby, where all Kunaev's weapons and hunting trophies are on display.