Birth of a phenomenon
While Paris has prided itself on imposing trends on the world since Louis XIV, the diktats of Milan's catwalks date back much less time. Italian fashion, and Milanese fashion in particular, is the product of a happy synergy between talented designers, entrepreneurs and craftsmen. Until the Second World War, Italy competed in the fashion industry only in the field of luggage. Luggage makers Prada (undeniable class) and Gucci (tempered eccentricity) were already distributing bags and trunks in the 1920s. But in the post-war years, the world fell under the spell of the refinement of Italian creations. Established in Rome in the 1950s, fashion houses gradually migrated to Milan to expand. Lombardy's first city possessed the economic and industrial fabric that Italy's capital lacked. In the 1960s, Milan took up the torch: a booming industrial and financial metropolis, an ambient economic well-being and the high standards of a hard-working bourgeoisie provided fertile ground for couture ateliers to flourish.
In 1958, the first Italian Fashion Week was launched. Designers from all over Italy flocked to Milan. A virtuous collaboration was established between design and the industrialization of fashion products, promulgated by the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, the organization in charge of promoting Italian fashion internationally. The 1970s and 1980s saw the arrival of three star designers, nicknamed "the 3 Gs": Giorgio Armani, Gianfranco Ferré and Gianni Versace, who placed Milan at the forefront of the fashion world. In the 1980s, fashion became a real business, with the figures we know today: the sector accounts for 4% of the country's annual GDP, exports 4.5 billion euros a year, has 850 showrooms in Milan alone, over 6,000 points of sale and 14 fashion schools with 6,000 students.
Creators' delusions
Among all the designers who converged on Milan in the 1970s, some of the greatest fashion houses are still to be found in the Quadrilatero della Moda, the downtown area that brings together the most designer boutiques. To name but a few, these are the Italian fashion houses most cherished by the Milanese, and which continue to set trends the world over.
Founded in 1921, Gucci's muse is none other than Charlotte Casiraghi. Its iconic bit loafers and double-G buckle belt continue to cause a sensation.
Valentino, trained in Paris, became a symbol of Made in Italy, with timelessly refined creations that blended French opulence with Italian flair. Valentino red" has become a brand image. It was the signature of Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress. Emilian by birth, but Milanese by adoption, Giorgio Armani (king Giorgio) broke through in the 1980s with his extravagantly controlled creations, daringly luxurious pieces in chic, sober tones of gray, beige and black. He was the first to make fashion a little more accessible with the creation of Emporio Armani, where you could find designer clothes for less. At the head of the Versace empire is a woman, Donatella, sister of founder Gianni, who instills a transgressive femininity in all her creations, with their bright colors and exuberant graphics. Another story of passion, that of Dolce & Gabbana, in love with each other and with their work. Their harmonious and original creativity is openly linked to Dolce's Sicilian origins. Finally, the geometric patterns of Missoni's dresses and sweaters have never gone out of fashion since they first appeared on the catwalks in the 1980s.
Fashion Weeks
Twice a year, fashion professionals and the general public alike look forward to the show. Whether it's for the autumn/winter collections (end of February) or the spring/summer collections (end of September), Milan fills up with journalists, photographers (over 2,500 press professionals) and celebrities invited for the occasion. The pace is frenetic: 200,000 visitors, including 15,000 buyers, drive the Milanese fashion machine. One might simply deplore the fact that, while the haute couture houses are omnipresent and virtually indestructible, young designers struggle to find their place, and often remain obliged to affiliate with a house.
Timeless class
The show continues well beyond the catwalk. Fashion seeks more than one form of expression, and the Milanese are themselves ambassadors for the chic and elegance of the country's labels. Indeed, during the fashion shows, the whole of Milan gets caught up in the fashion game: bars, restaurants and clubs fill up with models nonchalantly displaying the most improbable outfits. The electric atmosphere smacks of glamour. Just take a stroll through the streets of Milan and you'll see. It's easy to see how the transition from the catwalk to the street is a natural one, and how Milanese people are willing to do whatever it takes to look their best.
