CAFFÈ ELENA

A small, intimate café where Nietzsche and Cesare Pavese used to come for a glass of good wine, it's now frequented by many students and professors at aperitif time (and also, it seems, by the Elkann family). Its terrace is particularly pleasant on summer evenings, under the arcades overlooking the majestic Piazza Vittorio Veneto. The interior is wonderfully preserved in its late ^19th-century style, with wood panelling, paintings and small tables. The kitchen is open for lunch and dinner.