Things to see and do Staro Nagoričane

This rocky promontory, which rises more than 1,000 m above sea level, is presented as the "Kokino Megalithic Observatory" (Кокино Мегалитска Обсерваторија): according to the local official version, it would have been used for astronomical observations during prehistoric times. As such, it has been included in the Unesco World Heritage Tentative ("secondary") list since 2009. Excavations conducted from 2001 have brought to light a hundred objects left by man between the ^nineteenth and ^seventh century BC and presented in the museum of Kumanovo. However, no serious study came to support the theory of "the observatory". If Nasa supported this thesis for a time, the American space agency retracted in 2015, describing the site of Kokino as "a particularly problematic case". This one owes its name to its reddish-hued rocks: in Greek, κόκκκινο/kokkino means "red". Placed at the top of the hill of Tatićev Kamen, between 1,010 and 1,030 m above sea level, it extends about 90 m in length and 50 m in width. The complex dominates the hamlet of Kokino, to the southwest, across the road. In addition to the remains of an enclosing wall to the north of the promontory, the "observatory" would be made up of four platforms spreading out towards the west and of stones presented as strategically placed to follow the movements of the sun and the moon. But the visit proves to be disappointing, because the place - as beautiful as it is - does not shelter very "telling" vestiges.

This rocky mass of volcanic origin (Цоцев Камен, pronounced "tsotsev kamen") dominates the Kriva Valley at 481 m above sea level. Consisting of two hills facing each other, it has strange natural cavities and traces of human presence (red pigments, holes in the rock ...) from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages. According to some authors, the site was an astronomical observatory, a place of sacrifice... or a shepherds' shelter. But no serious study has yet been conducted. The place remains nevertheless intriguing and superb at sunset.

Discovered in 1919, this site (Археолошкиот Локалитет Големо Градиште/Arheološkiot Lokalitet Golemo Gradište) contains the remains of a Byzantine city founded in the^fifth century on a promontory in the Kriva Valley. The foundations of several buildings are visible: two basilicas, two villas, streets and a cistern around what must have been the central square. In the distance, there are also hermit cells. In summer, local and American archaeologists can be seen working there.

Opened in 2004, this monument (Меморијален Центар АСНОМ) is decorated with a colorful mosaic of 140^m2. It is dedicated to the Antifascist Assembly for the Liberation of the Macedonian People (ASNOM). This was founded on August 2, 1944, in the monastery of Prohor Pčinski, in Serbia, 9 km to the north, then dissolved by Tito in early 1945. Considered as independentists or probulgares, a hundred of militants were then executed. An important official ceremony is held here on August 2, the national holiday, on the anniversary of the Ilinden uprising in 1903.

This Orthodox chapel (Испосница Свети Прохор Пчињски/Isposnica Sveti Prohor Pčinjski) is linked to the origins of the Church of St. George. According to legend, while a Byzantine general was hunting here, a doe found refuge in this shelter of the hermit St. Prochorus of the Pčinja. The latter implored him to spare the animal, assuring him that one day he would become emperor. The hunter, crowned as Roman IV Diogenes in 1068, had the monastery erected here, later remodeled by Milutin.

This Orthodox church (Црква Свети Ѓорѓи/Crkva Sveti Gjorgji) is a masterpiece of Serbo-Byzantine art. It was founded on the site of a Byzantine monastery of the ^eleventh century by the Serbian king Milutin in 1313. He dedicated it to "St. George the Victorious" after his victory against the Ottomans in Gallipoli, near Constantinople. The interior is decorated with remarkable frescoes made between 1313 and 1318 by the two great Greek painters Michaïl Astrapas and Eutychios, to whom we owe the decoration of several churches listed as World Heritage by Unesco, including Ohrid. Although the building has lost its exonarthex (porch), it is well preserved. Its very compact form comes from the previous church of Byzantine-Armenian style, which was built by Armenian craftsmen who fled to Kratovo. In the narthex (vestibule), above the door, the scene of the dormition of the Mother of God appears in the form of a procession. This dynamic effect is very rare, since the dormition is most often a static lamentation. Also in the narthex, the lower part of the north wall houses the damaged portrait of Milutin, who symbolically offers the church to Saint George. To the left stands Simona Palaeologus, the king's fourth wife, who was reputedly very beautiful. Behind this almost unique presentation of the royal couple lies a sordid story. The Byzantine princess was married to Milutin at the age of 5. The union was quickly "consummated" and this rape later prevented Simone from having children.

Dragon tamed. Following the narthex, the naos is covered with frescoes in seven registers. The third is dedicated to St. George: his martyrdom before the walls of Nicomedia, his miracles (including the fall of "pagan" statues), or the episode of the dragon, very particular. Here, the monster has not been struck down but tamed and is held in check by the princess who has just been saved. In the fourth register, the cycle of the Passion of Christ is of interest to musicologists: above the destruction of the idols by Saint George appears the oldest known representation of a modern recorder. Finally, in the sanctuary, the iconostasis retains its original marble structure and two irremovable icons of St. George and the Mother of God, known as Pelagonitissa. The latter, with the Child contorting himself against his loving Mother, is the most famous of a genre that is especially widespread in Pelagonia, around Bitola.