KAMIN ČAMO

In Debar Maalo, 300 m south of City Park, this family-run restaurant (Камин Чамо) has been an institution since 1989. A dozen tables, rustic decor and a small pine-covered fireplace that gives the establishment its name. Not much choice on the menu (in English), but authentic dishes: Albanian kukurec (lamb guts and offal on a spit), veal tongue fritters, tripe soup and drob sarma, a kind of moussaka with lamb liver, rice and spices. Bus: 8 or 15a on Ilinden Boulevard, "Gradski Park Fontana" stop.