Restaurants cuisine du monde Skopje

This bar-restaurant (Пелистер) is a must-visit with its large terrace on Macedonia Square. A former state-run establishment founded in 1961, it takes its name from the Pelister massif near Bitola. Nothing gourmet (pasta, risottos, salads, meats, desserts, hearty breakfasts), but the wood-fired pizzas are good. Otherwise, it's also a superbly located hotel: six rooms and apartments (from €60 for two with breakfast) with a breathtaking view of... the square's ugly monuments.

Close to the park adjoining the Trgovski shopping centre, the Nacional offers Macedonian dishes and tasty pizzas. All in a musical atmosphere at sometimes sound level.

In Debar Maalo, this restaurant opened in 1991 (Скопски Мерак) offers good traditional cuisine: mezzés(pindjur, ajvar, makalo), simmered dishes(tavče gravče, selsko meso...), "Macedonian pizza"(pastrmajlija), grilled or bell-cooked meats(sač), fish, fried zucchini, etc. English menu, wine and live music. Access: 300 m south of City Park. Bus 8 or 15a on Ilinden boulevard (stop "Gradski Park Fontana") and numerous lines on Partizanski-Odredi boulevard (stop "Gradezhen Fakultet").

This restaurant (Ресторан Уранија) is especially noteworthy for its location, in the center of City Park. It is in fact the restaurant of the Jug tennis club, whose clay courts are located on either side. The menu is very Italian (no pizza) with pastas, salads, risottos, osso buco, mozzarella meats... All the dishes are rarely available, but on the whole it's pretty decent. And if you're just looking for a place to take a break while strolling through the park, Café Jug is right next door.

Within the same house here coexist two restaurants heir to the Idadija cafe (Идадија) founded in 1928. Both are "the soul" of Debar Maalo, the nicest neighborhood on the West Bank. In both, the clientele remains very local and the rates lower than the neighboring establishments. On one side, Idadija III has remained very popular, offering beer, wine, rakija, kebabs and a good tavče gravče (national dish of baked beans). On the other, Idadija M is a bit more modern with also grilled vegetables and meats.

This restaurant (Гостилница Дукат) is one of the best in the country, specializing in very good but not cheap grilled or baked meats (MKD 1,400-4,000/kg). Traditional soups and stews are much more affordable. We also like the white tablecloths, creative desserts and impeccable service in English. It's a pity that the wine list is unsurprisingly limited to bottles from large estates (Tikveš, Bovin...), some of which are not bad, but expensive. Bus: 4a, 5 or 5a (Fabrika Treska stop).

This restaurant (Ресторан Лира) is a little off-center: it's in the Karpoš district (bus 8 or 15a on Ilinden Boulevard, stop "Gimnaziјa Ortse Nikolov"). Romantic atmosphere: subdued lighting, candles, musicians, fireplace in winter and small terrace in summer. The traditional Macedonian cuisine served here is generally of good quality. Otherwise, on the same street, the Tribeca restaurant (facebook.com/tribecamk) is also very popular with Skopians: terrace, international cuisine and cocktails.

This is the restaurant of the Marriott hotel. Not really our cup of tea, but it's the best table around Macedonia Square. The "Mediterranean" menu includes pizzas, foie gras, houmos, pasta, risotto, burgers, salmon and brochettes served with Macedonian ajvar. Everything is rather well done. We also appreciate the bar that serves cocktails inspired by Slavic mythology. This adds a little local touch to this place where everything seems to feel like any other Marriott in the world.

This traditional restaurant (Градска Кафеана Кај Џоле) is a little hard to find: on Maksim-Gorki Street coming from Macedonia Square with a street entrance (opposite the Swiss Embassy), then a corridor to the courtyard. But it's one of the few good addresses in the city center. It's an old kafana well known to Skopians for its wines, folk music groups and local and Balkan specialties: pork on the spit (reservations required, MKD 1,200/kg), fried zucchini, trout, salads..

Located near Bit Pazar, this grill restaurant founded in 1952 (Ќебапчилница Космос, Qebaptore Kosmos) is Skopiotes' favorite in Stara Čarsija. But it's no-frills: ćevapi (MKD 240 per ten), homemade bread, roasted peppers, šopksa salad, tavče gravče (MKD 160) and that's about it. However, it's definitely more authentic and better than in the more touristy establishments in the southern part of the district. Tiny street terrace on sunny days and small room with minimalist decor.

In Debar Maalo, 300 m south of City Park, this family-run restaurant (Камин Чамо) has been an institution since 1989. A dozen tables, rustic decor and a small pine-covered fireplace that gives the establishment its name. Not much choice on the menu (in English), but authentic dishes: Albanian kukurec (lamb guts and offal on a spit), veal tongue fritters, tripe soup and drob sarma, a kind of moussaka with lamb liver, rice and spices. Bus: 8 or 15a on Ilinden Boulevard, "Gradski Park Fontana" stop.

"À l'ombre des noyers" (Ореов Лад) is Skopje's oldest restaurant. Located in Saraj/Сарај, it was founded in 1880 and enjoys a superb garden... in the shade of walnut trees. Still run by the same family, it's a nice stopover on the way to Matka Canyon. It serves good quality traditional cuisine. But when the weather's fine, the place is often full at weekends. Four comfortable rooms are also available (facebook.com/KonakNestor, €29/34 for two with breakfast). Bus 2, 12, 56 or 60, "Rekreativen Tsentar Saraј" stop.

Located in a beautiful building dating back to 1836, the "old house" restaurant (Стара Куќа) is popular with expats and tourists alike for its wood-panelled decor and live folk music. On the menu are numerous Macedonian specialties, including meats and vegetables cooked in an earthen pan à l'étouffée. Be careful not to pay in euros, otherwise it's 10-20% more expensive. Access via Place Mère-Teresa, between the Philharmonic and the Opera.

The "Caravanserai Brasserie" (Пивница Ан) is an honest, quiet tourist restaurant located in Stara Čarsija, in the Kapan Caravanserai. The vaulted hall is magnificent and the terrace, very pleasant in fine weather. Here you'll find most of the great classics of Macedonian and Balkan cuisine: ajvar, pindjur, šopska salad, moussaka, tavče gravče, makalo, mućkalica... No worries: the menu is in English and everything is explained. It's pretty good and the waiters are pros. Fish: 1,200/2,000 MKD/kg. Breakfast until 1pm.

This bar-restaurant in Stara Čaršija (Ракија Бар Калдрма) is located straight past the footbridge spanning Goce-Delčev Boulevard. It serves some fifty rakijas from North Macedonia and the Balkans, with plum, apricot, herbs, nuts, honey and more. The best and most expensive is from the Serbian Vučija distillery in Subotica: 800 MKD for 4 cl. All this can be accompanied by cheeses, mezzés or dishes like a tavče gravče. The atmosphere is nice and musicians come to play every evening.