THE BLUE CITY

Bluewashed houses are a common sight in Rajasthan. In Jodhpur, the entire old town at the foot of the fortress is painted in shades ranging from milky blue to royal blue. Blue, the color of the gods and Brahmin dwellings, is said to mark the religious devotion of the inhabitants. According to other versions, its main function is to ward off mosquitoes. Don't hesitate to get lost in the maze of small streets, as the opposite is highly unlikely. But rest assured, tourists have always been found safe and sound. You'll come across life at every crossroads, witness picturesque scenes typical of India and perhaps be barred from passing by a troublesome cow... A good tip: start from Clock Tower Square (or Ghanta Ghar in Hindi), which is an excellent landmark and a path that everyone will point out to you when you're really lost.

The Clock Tower: a good starting point for exploring the city, and also a good landmark. Built by Maharaja Sardar Singh during British colonial rule, it was designed in the purest Anglo-Indian style, blending Victorian and Rajasthani elements. The Clock Tower sits at the center of a large square, the Sadar Market. It's said to be possible to climb to the^1st-floor balcony free of charge, but the tower has always been closed to visitors. To the north and south, three-arched access gates have been built. The main gate in the center was designed to let in carts, and today cars and rickshaws. On the sides, two smaller gates are reserved for pedestrians. Clock Tower Square links the old town to the new one, which has expanded to the south.

Sadar Market: spread around the Clock Tower, the focal point of this vast square. It serves as a grocery store for the inhabitants of the old town. You'll notice that each corner has its own speciality: fruit and vegetables, spices, bangles, second-hand clothes... You'll also find a few tourist stores selling mostly fake antiques, manufactured goods passed off as handicrafts, and scarves and stoles that may be beautiful, but are neither pashmina nor cashmere. So be careful... The market is very lively and well worth a leisurely stroll, taking a few photos of turbaned men and women in colorful ghagra-choli . Sadar Market is a particularly good place if you're planning to buy spices.

The bazaars: to the west of Sadar Market, the streets and alleys are packed with stores full of goods. Mingle with the crowds as you move from the fruit and vegetable bazaar, to saris and textiles, bangles and jewelry, bamboo ladders and stepladders and more. This is where you'll find the tie and dye, unique to the city of Jodhpur. Jodhpur's bazaars attract a lot of people, especially on Saturdays, and claustrophobes will soon feel oppressed. But it's just as much fun to watch the shoppers haggling as it is to try it yourself. Jodhpur may be a very touristy town, but the bazaar's merchants don't count on this foreign windfall to make their fortune. So, if you know how to negotiate, you'll find bargains at good prices. Stores for tourists are mainly to be found on the outskirts of Sadar Market.

North of the old town: passing through the north gate of Sadar Market takes you to a quieter, more strollable part of the city. This is where most of the guesthouses and small hotels are located, where you can stop for a meal or a cold drink. Almost all have rooftop terraces, often with breathtaking views of the Mehrangarh fort. Here, you'll come across more cows than cars, women brightening up their homes or chatting amongst themselves, children in uniform on their way to school or playing at the end of the day, men off to work, elderly people watching passers-by, including you...

Thoorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi: this is one of Rajasthan's most famous stepped wells. And yet, few tourists get lost here, just 100 metres north of Clock Square. The well was commissioned by the wife of maharaja Abhay Singh in 1740. Originally from Patan in Gujarat, the princess had in mind the Queen's extraordinary baori. Jodhpur's baori is far less extravagant, but incorporates some of the most notable features of this type of structure. Staircases forming geometrical patterns run along three of the walls, while on the fourth a small building has been carved with a false door. The use of the gallery is unknown, but it may have been used for religious ceremonies or by notables. The well has been completely renovated and emptied of its brackish water, revealing new sets of steps. It is now not uncommon to see young Indians splashing about in the well. If you want to have the well to yourself, it's best to come in the morning.

Mahila Bag Ka Jhalra: this other baori (staircase well) just beside the Gulab Sagar reservoir is less impressive, very dirty and frequented by characters who don't make you want to stay too long.