RABATI

This is the historic old town of Akhaltsikhe. It was until recently in a very bad state, the streets barely paved. But Mikheil Saakashvili's government has undertaken a rehabilitation programme. One part of the district is still in poor condition and the other has been completely disrupted by this work. The small neighbourhood is rich in incredible multicultural vestiges, signs of all the peoples who have lived here. Rabati spreads out on the hill on the left bank of the Potskhovi river, you can see the fortress at the top of a peak.

The fortress was built in the 12th century. It had the appearance of an Ottoman fortress until it was completely rehabilitated in 2012. It is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm. Reconstructed in a new style more than renovated to perfection, the original site has been extensively redesigned and embellished with the classic attributes of "Saakashvilian" architecture: fountain, balconies, modern folklore elements added to the original buildings. The towers that can be seen are mostly a 2012 construction and not original buildings. All in all, Rabati Castle has the appearance of the dream of an Ottoman castle in Georgia by the political power of the 2000s . Apart from the walls and towers, the site (prized by Georgians, whatever one thinks of its authenticity) contains a mosque and the ruins of a madrassa (Islamic school). It is also home to the Samtskhe-Djavakhetia History and Ivané Djavakhichvili Art Museum, where a fine collection of carpets, reliefs from the Sapara Monastery, and a 16th-century manuscript of the Tiger-skinned Knight of Chota Rustaveli can be seen.

Continuing straight ahead after the fortress, on the left is the Orthodox church, dating from the 19th century. On the way there is another madrassa in very poor condition. Going up the streets surrounded by darbazebi, the traditional terraced houses, most of them dating from the 19th century, one reaches the ruins of an old Armenian church.

Passing in front of it and going down on the right hand side, one passes an old synagogue. If you manage to find the abandoned Catholic church a little further down and then go back up on the left, you will really have a great sense of smell. It's difficult to find your way around these small, damaged alleys, but you'll always find an impressive relic of the past at a crossroads. The sleepy village life that now haunts this area is undoubtedly part of the highlight of the visit.