GREAT OCEAN ROAD

The Great Ocean Road was built between 1919 and 1932, first by soldiers returning from the Great War in Europe, then by the unemployed from the Great Depression of the 1920s. This spectacular route, from Torquay to Warrnambool, stretches over 320 km of cliffs, coves and deserted beaches. All along the way, Visitor Information Centres are useful landmarks for exploring the region. On this coast, the sea constantly reshapes the landscape, leaving only the hardest rocks.

For those who love the wilderness, the Anglesea golf course is reputed to be home to many kangaroos, who invade the greens early in the morning and at dusk. Koalas can also be found at Kennett River, halfway between Lorne and Apollo Bay. From here, it's a 500-meter walk along Grey River Road. You'll catch a glimpse of these fur balls relaxing in the eucalyptus trees.

Take your time to discover the other natural beauties on this route. Allow at least 4 to 4.5 hours for the drive from Melbourne to Port Campbell: the road winds along a steep coastline, and the speed limit is 80 km/h most of the time.

The Twelve Apostles, the stone sentinels that watch over the Antarctic waves, are about ten kilometers from Port Campbell. However, there are not twelve, but eight, some of which have collapsed over time. Facing the ocean, the view from a specially-designed platform is superb. Whatever the season or the weather, it's best to get there before noon: there are plenty of buses from Melbourne afterwards.

After this stopover, the road holds many more surprises. Don't miss Loch Ard Gorge and its cliffside walks, then, just outside Port Campbell, the formations of The Arch, London Arch and The Grotto. London Arch was originally a bridge, but partially collapsed in 1990, trapping two people who had to be rescued by helicopter.

At London Arch, as at the Twelve Apostles, penguins can be seen returning to their nests at dusk, after a day at sea. In small, tightly packed groups, they emerge from the waves and carry the food stored in their beaks back to their nests. It's important to keep your distance so as not to block their path or frighten them, which could compromise their return.