VOLCANIC ISLANDS OF NEA KAMENI AND PALEA KAMENI

At the center of the caldera, these two small islands are a major, must-see attraction on Santorini. Nea Kameni/Νέα Καμένη ("new burn") is home to the craters of Santorini's volcano and covers 3.4 km2, while Palea Kameni/Παλαιά Καμένη ("old burn") is 0.17 km2 and boasts a chapel and a hot "spring" where you can bathe all year round. Access is by excursion boat (20-30 minute crossing) from the old port of Thira, the port of Athinios, the port of Amoudi (Oia) and the marina of Vlychada (southwest of Perissa). You'll need good shoes, a bathing suit, a towel and seasonal clothing. Both islands were formed by the powerful eruption of Santorini around 1610 BC. The volcano's molten rock was slowly brought to the surface from a depth of 470 m by a succession of underwater eruptions between 197 BC and 1950. The islet of Palea Kameni first appeared in 46 AD. And 100 m to the east, Nea Kameni was born around 1570 and grew in size until 1950. Both are under constant observation for signs of a new eruption.

Smoke and warm waters. The two islands are now a protected natural area managed by the Santorini municipality. We dock north of Nea Kameni and follow a 1.1 km trail through desert landscapes reminiscent of Mars. First you pass the oldest part of the island: the Mikri Kameni crater, which appeared in the ^16th century. Then comes the Dafni crater, formed in 1925-1928. Finally, you reach the island's summit, 127 m above sea level, with views over the entire caldera. Nearby, to the east, the two Georgios craters appeared in 1866 and 1940. The larger one continues to spew fumaroles and gases. And to the south lies the Liatsikas lava flow, which has been solidifying since 1950, giving rise to Greece's newest territory. Then it's back to the boat, which takes you to the hot springs. Some excursions stop for 10 minutes at Nea Kameni, on the west side of the island. But the main bathing spot is the "spring" on the islet of Palea Kameni. Here, the sea is heated by magma 300 m below the surface. The yellow color indicates the presence of sulfur, and the water reaches a surface temperature of between 30 and 38°C.