AMBELI BAY

Attention jewel: this small pebble cove in the north-west of the island hides waters of breathtaking purity. A few trees set back from the sea provide shade if needed, but you won't have your feet in the water. On the right-hand side of the cove, large flat rocks dotted with small natural pools seem to have been created for sunbathing. Beware, however: as the cove is easily accessible by road, it can quickly become saturated in very high season, so first come, first served. From the main road, beyond Chrisopigi, take the dirt road that branches off to the left (allow 10 minutes). Scooters will find it easy to park on the small, flat clearing marking the entrance to the cove. Cars, on the other hand, are a different kettle of fish!

In the end, it's better to come on foot if you've got a bit of energy. Walkers are warned of the way. From the main road, shortly after the Iliovasilema café-restaurant, a stone road descends to the left. Pass the Notos villas, which you leave behind, and continue on to the magnificent chapel of Agios Panteleimon. Take a break to enjoy the shade and scenery. You're between sea, sky and land. Continue along the dirt road through terraced fields, then take the stone path that joins Ampeli on the right. Stone steps have been created in places. Allow 1 hour from Iliovasilema.