ANCIENT SITE OF PHILIPPI

Fifteen kilometers from Kavala, this little-known archaeological site was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2016. The first traces of settlement on the site of Philippi date back to prehistoric times. In 360 BC, a colony of Thassians, led by the exiled Athenian politician Callistratus, founded the first city on this ideal location: Krenides, commanding the only road that passes between the Orvilos Mountains and the swamps. Threatened by people coming from Thrace, the inhabitants of Krenides ask for protection to the powerful Macedonian kingdom. Conquered by Philip II of Macedonia, Krenides is immediately fortified to resist the assaults of the outside. It is then that it takes the name of Philippi. Thanks to the exploitation of some gold mines discovered near the city, Philippi becomes prosperous. At this time, it is still a city-state and enjoys privileges and autonomy that the other cities of the kingdom do not know. After the Roman invasion, a gigantic road is built to connect the two ends of the Empire: the via Egnatia, which crosses Philippi. In 42 BC, Philippi was the scene of the famous battle between the two Roman armies: that of Brutus and Cassius, the republicans, and that of the heirs of Julius Caesar's policy, Octavian and Antony. The defeat of the republicans sealed the fate of Rome and the beginning of Octavian's reign as emperor. The city was prosperous at this time, as shown by the sumptuous Roman monuments found on the site. In 49-50 AD, Philippi witnessed a second great change in European history: the arrival of the apostle St. Paul on Greek soil. It is in this city that Saint Paul will found the first Christian church in Europe, and it is thus in this city that European Christianity is born. Ancient texts tell us about the days of St. Paul in Thrace, Samothrace, Neapolis, and finally Philippi where he was arrested, imprisoned and released. In this Christian period, the great Roman public buildings, mostly already destroyed by earthquakes, are replaced by Christian basilicas. The Christian period is also for Philippi that of a great prosperity, as testifies the decorations of the basilicas as well as the offerings brought to light in the tombs of the first cemeteries.

At the end of the VIth century, Philippi begins to decline. During the Byzantine period, Philippi is nothing more than a fortress. The Ottoman domination precipitates the fall of the city which becomes a simple set of ruins visited by some amateurs of archaeology. In 1914, the French School of Athens begins campaigns of systematic excavations on the site, which will be taken again by the Greek Archaeological Services after the Second World War.

Walls. Our visit begins with the fortifications of the city. These walls protected at first the naturally fortified hill, then went down in the plain to surround completely the whole of the public buildings and the dwellings which made up the city. The first fortifications date back to the reign of Philip II of Macedonia and the last ones are the work of the emperor Justinian I. With a total circumference of 3,5 km, the ramparts were reinforced at regular intervals with towers which also framed the three doors giving access to the interior of the city. The only gate still visible today is the so-called Neapolis gate because the road to the city's port started here. It is located at the east of the site.

Acropolis. By bravely walking up the path that leaves the museum, you will reach the acropolis of the city. Up there, the different phases of construction of the surrounding wall are very visible: the Byzantine wall is built on the wall of Philip II. The acropolis remains dominated by an imposing Byzantine tower. At its feet, a small chapel and another enclosure included in the walls of the acropolis.

Theater. It was built by Philip II in the 4th century B.C. and remained in activity until the end of Antiquity. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries of our era, the Romans deeply modified the architecture of the monument to allow the good development of the games which they gave there.

Basilica A. You can't miss the ruins of the great basilica located behind the entrance of the site. It was composed of three naves and a transept and is distinguished by the exceptional richness of its sculptural decoration. The courtyard gives access to an atrium that marks the entrance to the basilica. Close to the rock of the acropolis, a chapel whose wall frescoes, still well preserved, recall marble decorations. Colonnades separated the three naves. In the central nave, fragments of the marble pavement allow us to imagine the luxury of the building in its time of splendor. To the right of the other staircase that rises from the street, a small chapel was built on what is believed to have been the prison of Saint Paul.

Building in the shape of a temple. To the west of Basilica A, the foundations of a two-room building dating back to the Hellenistic period and which would have been a heron. An inscription was indeed found in the building mentioning the name of Philip II, among several other heroes and deities of the region. Another inscription discovered, and not the least, is a decree of Alexander the Great defining the geographical limits of the province of Philippi. In Roman times, the building was equipped with a monumental staircase.

Prison of Saint Paul. To the right of this staircase, as you climb it, you can see the remains of a large Roman cistern that was converted into a place of worship after the destruction of Basilica A. Frescoes are still visible if you lean over to look inside its walls. According to tradition, this is where Saint Paul was imprisoned.

Agora. After crossing the road, you arrive at the great agora. Administrative and commercial center of the city during the Roman period, it is located in the heart of the city stuck to the ancient via Egnatia, which you cross to reach the center of the square, surrounded by buildings identified as shops on the south and public or religious buildings on the other sides.

Commercial agora. To the south of the agora are the remains of stores, the commercial agora. This was largely destroyed by the construction of Basilica B. On the ground remained preserved sets of dice engraved at the time Roman.

Basilica B. The ruins of the basilica B dominate all the agora, by the height of its walls and by their color of brick which contrasts with the gray of the surrounding marble. The basilica was built in 550 AD. Its almost square nave was sheltered by a dome supported by four enormous pillars, three of which are still in good condition today. The walls, built of stone with parallel bands of brick, are characteristic of Justinian's reign. After the collapse of the dome covering the nave, the narthex was used as a church.

Palestra. Under the walls of Basilica B, the remains of a large Roman complex known as the palestra. Heading west, you first find a large rectangular colonnaded courtyard that served as a training ground for athletes. The best preserved part of the palaestra is undoubtedly the public latrines on the left. As in Dion, they are composed of a marble bench pierced at regular intervals to welcome the citizens. At the foot of the bench runs a gutter for the evacuation of waste water.

Complex of the Roman thermal baths. You will find the baths south-east of the palestra, near the southern wall of the city. You will have to walk a little bit. The building consists of two wings separated by a square colonnaded courtyard. The wing was intended for amusement, rest and banquets, while the west wing was reserved for the baths. The mosaic-covered floor is still well preserved and is on display in the site museum. The baths were later built in the third century and destroyed by the Goths after 378.