PANGALANES CANAL

Built in the ^20th century, the Pangalanes Canal is almost 700 kilometers long, linking Farafangana to the port city of Toamasina. The name "Pangalanes" comes from "Ampangalana", meaning "the place where goods are loaded or unloaded".

In Mananjary, a visit to the river port at the entrance to the town is a must. Numerous boats, large and small, cross the calm waters of the canal. Goods of all kinds are transshipped: wood, vanilla, fruit, fish, precious stones... Some pirogues are inhabited by entire families.

Fans of Indiana Jones-type journeys can try their hand at negotiating a trip to Nosy Varika or Mahanoro in the north, or to Manakara in the south. The more adventurous can travel by bush boat. Irregular departures, but some to Nosy Varika for 8,000 Ar, and to Mahanoro for 20,000 Ar (higher fuel costs to be expected). We sleep in the middle of the freight, of course, and have to make do with extremely unusual circumstances!

One of the most highly recommended service providers for any mini-cruise is Holidays Madagascar. They are indisputable specialists in this region. Alternatively, check out Vahiny Lodge, Sorafa Hotel or La Route des Epices (non-exhaustive list).

Half-day excursions take in part of the artificial canal, spice or vanilla plantations, typical villages and traditional crafts.

A day trip (including an overnight bivouac) takes you to Ambohitsara, home to the "sacred elephant" that Arabs are said to have brought from Mecca in the ^12th century.

To reach Tamatave, allow 3 days by bush boat and 70,000 Ar. Alternatively, Holidays Madagascar offers a more organized tour.

For the descent to Manakara, a pirogue is de rigueur due to the shallowness of the water. Count on 3 or 4 days' escapade; a superb opportunity to take an original tour of the East, before finishing by taking the train back up to Fianarantsoa and the Highlands. A change of scenery is guaranteed as you discover small fishing villages and the man-made canal. In some places, and depending on the season, it's not possible to continue on the pirogue, and you'll have to carry it for a few hundred meters (the piroguers will do this for you if you're not too keen on the adventure). The itinerary can also be followed in the opposite direction.