Things to see and do Ol Doinyo Lengai

Ol Doinyo Lengai dominates Lake Natron from its 2,878 m and stands out in the savannah landscape, often escorted by white clouds appearing as thick scattered smoke (but they are clouds today). It is a roughly circular mountain with a conical appearance on the horizon like any volcano, but in reality with concave slopes (so steeper and steeper). On the lower slopes, you may see hyenas or oréotragues (small African antelopes). On the ridge, from which a superb view of this 500 m diameter crater emerges, greenish or yellow cracks appear, releasing sulphur-laden fumes. Lengaï lava has the particularity of being composed, in particular, of sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), which in the 48 hours following its release into the open air solidifies by taking on a white colour, even brighter under the sun, which, from a distance, on the road from Serengeti to Olduvai for example, gives the impression that the volcano is snow-covered.

Religion. "The Mountain of God", in Maasai, is of paramount importance to this Nilotic tribe. Although converted to Christianity by missionaries who provide them with small material help, the Maasai are deeply animist and believe in the spirits of nature, regardless of whether their totally pagan traditions stick to Christian precepts, and that is good. Precisely the sky is considered as God and the blue has a sacred character symbolizing the Almighty but also fertility (and dresses women in tradition). The Maasai, however far from the sacred mountain, regularly come here to make pilgrimages, sacrifice animals to invoke the gods and ask for mild rains, fertile soils for their animals, large offspring or peace between villages. There are many complaints. But the fervour was very impressive during the last big eruption in 2008. Virgin women were asked to go and collect the hot ashes of the volcano threatening the villages, considered as God's offerings, by singing and praying to the volcano day and night. No one wanted to be evacuated despite the government's insistence on protecting local populations from a possible eruption. The Maasai, who consider the mountain to be protective, invoked the most beautiful gods to ask for their protection, sacrificing even more animals to obtain its mercy and indeed no one was killed and the volcano calmed down after violent outbursts of lava.

Volcanology. Haroun Tazieff came to observe Ol Doinyo Lengai, the only volcano in real activity on the Great Rift before those of Ethiopia, one of the youngest volcanoes in East Africa and perhaps the most active. The volcanologist came to study this very fluid lava specially - of a viscosity comparable to water, imagine! - rock, much colder than other types of lava and melts at "only" 500°C. The last major eruptions took place in 1992, 1983 and, above all, in 1967 and then in 2007 and 2008. The eruption was most violent in 1967, scattering hot ashes as far as Seronera, 100 km away. The runoff poisoned entire herds of Maasai cattle. The Maasai were convinced that their god was very angry and had unleashed himself on their beasts, their most precious possession. Thousands of animals died poisoned by the volcano's toxic ashes. In 2007 and 2008, lava flowed dramatically from the crater during 4 eruptions. Since then, it has been in relative calm, but it could burst into flames at any time.

The ascension. It is being prepared in Engaresero, where the office of guides and rangers is located, but Arusha agencies also offer it with 4x4 transfers included (but it is more expensive). The ascent and descent take 4 to 5 hours in each direction at a very average pace. It is absolutely not necessary to bring a rope to climb Ol Doinyo Lengai, you just have to be in good shape and not have any breathing problems. The effort is really worth it. If you want to cook up there, you have to bring fuel and a lot of equipment, it might be easier to settle for sandwiches. It is often customary to leave in the middle of the night at around 1am to watch the sunrise from the top of the mountain on the plain, magical! But also to avoid the overwhelming heat of the day during the ascent. Return to the lodge around noon.

If you prefer to do it during the day, it is advisable to leave very early to avoid the heat of the day, around 5am.

Take a 4x4 to the track that runs south along the escarpment and climbs for about fifteen kilometres. After crossing a few korrongos (erosion beds), you will reach the maximum point of slope that can be crossed by the vehicle.

The walk is done on three successive types of terrain, a path first rises slowly in the tall grass. Then the slope rises, and on a ground of stone and volcanic sand, we go straight along a ridge parallel to korrongos 15 m deep at first, but then less and less marked. Finally, the last third is the steepest part, which is climbed on ashes in which the foot sinks and slides (always straight ahead, following a small lava bar to the right).